Anybody have up-close rear suspension photos?

[mikesplumbing]

I know it's a lot to ask but i'm a little nervous about setting up my rear end and would like to see if any of you guys have some good photos of your whole rear end. I've been looking through the threads and i'm a little muddy on how I should do it. I'm going to use just coil-overs and I am looking for photos of the shock to axel connection and the upper connection as well. The rear upper spring perch can be set-up many different ways from what I gather and I like how Youngsters plans draw them up but i'm a novice so i'm not sure why someone would choose one way over the other.

Thanks guys!
Mike

 

[putz]

Here is a pretty good pic You don't want too much angle or you lose to much effeciency out of the spring and shock.The shock mounts with 3 holes are a good idea.This gives even more adjustment.Most buckets take some adjusting to get to ride nice.

 

[mikesplumbing]

I was reading Youngsters prints and a couple places on line ond most say 20 deg. but they don't give a range to follow. I'm assuming 20 deg. is the max. I'm also assuming that the wider the total distance between shocks is better.

Mike

 

[PaulR]

Mike,
Lets see if I can do this.....This mine... :lol:
Hope this helps.

PaulR

 

[rooster57]

This was my solution > i sat my s10 rearend on jackstands. I placed the anglefinder on the yoke of the drive line. Set it to 3-5 deg up angle and then took a measurement from the yoke bottom holes and made a flat plate that bolted onto the yoke and would set on the floor and keep the 3-5 deg angle after the angle finder was removed. Then i put my radius rod brackets on the rearend and angled them in sat a carpenters square on the floor and set the two 3/8 holes in the brackets straight up and down. Then figure the angle you want your shocks at and tac the brackets on to. When you tac your panhard bar bracket on the axel make sure its not under frame so as the frame moves up and down it doesnt bottom out on the frame .

 

[benT]

Her's a few construction shots of mine. As you know its a '27 and built a bit different than your 23 will be. but it might be helpful. The rear coil overs are Linblad Chassis' from Spirit. They are mounted slightly on an angle but not much. I needed them outboard as much as possible as they attach to the axle bracket that is also the 4 bar bracket. Also they needed to clear the tank. One other note, the panhard bracket on the axle was about 1" too tall. I found out the hard way when it punctured the trunk floor on the PowerTour this year :sad:. Its fixed already, I pulled the axle and shortened it by a few inches and fixed the floor by plating it on both side. Luckily the trunk carpeting is ok

 

[mikesplumbing]

Ben, that's sure a different approach! That must be DOM used to support the upper shock.

Looks like I have a few different options. I see that Youngster used a 12" shock based on the temp. support in the drawings. If i set that up and it ended up a little high could I just use a 10" shock instead?

I'm a little confused on 1 thing. When I dial in the rear end yoke angle doesn't that change depending on rake angle of frame? I guess what i'm wondering is about the actual driveshaft angle. It must be pretty hard to have a perfect straight line from the tranny to the yoke right?

Mike

 

[donsrods]

Here are a couple for starters..........very basic T bucket type construction, but it works.

Don

 

[mikesplumbing]

Why do you guys mount the shock on the back side of the two brackets instead of between the two tabs?

Mike

 

[EX JUNK]

I took a slightly different approach.

Jim

 

[mikesplumbing]

I guess it's pretty simple when I look at the photos you guys posted. Thanks for the photos I think I got a game plan now!

Mike

 

[benT]

Ben, that's sure a different approach! That must be DOM used to support the upper shock.

Mike

Mike: I agree its a bit different, but as I said in a previous post, I did a few things a few times. This was one of them. I ended up using this tank after I fabbed the frame rails and it didn't quite fit. So I took this approach. You can see in the second pic that I added a body mount after the CM tube. After welding and smoothing, it looks pretty monolithic. Its not as pretty as it could be, but unless you are under the rear end of the car (jacked up) you'll never see it. My roll pan covers everything to where you only see half of the bottom shock bolt.

Some of the choices I made came from the fact that I wasn't aware of some of the bracket options that RPM makes. I used one from the Chassis Engineering as it made some of the choices for me. On this next one, we'll make our own, or contact RPM for them.

 

[mikesplumbing]

Thanks Ben!

 

[RexRod]

And now for something completely different! (Monty Python)

The Jaguar independent rear out of the XKE is popular. If you discipline yourself, you will see a Jag in this picture. Just not a very good picture of the Jag rear suspension. Sorry, couldn't help myself. :shifty:

 

[RPM]

An example of a perfect installation.

 

[oldtman]

you mentioned drive shaft angle , the goal is to have a straight line drawn thru the engine crankshaft-trans output Parallel to a line drawn thru the rear axle pinion shaft. . if not you can get vibration and u joint wear. I looked at the Ford GT and the rear drive axles run at an angle. not perpendicular to the center line of the car. then needed some space so they are ofset BUT the lines are parallel

 

[mikesplumbing]

OK, I think I understand. If it needs to be a straight line, and the engine needs to be installed level, that would mean the rear angle of the yoke has to change according to tire size, shock length, and overall rake......right????

To just set it at 3-5 deg. without knowing the total layout could produce an offset line from yoke to tranny????

Mike

 

[oldtman]

Usually you set a level on the intake manifold so the carb will be level.... in most cars this will have the crankshaft-trans main shaft pointed down a little to the rear... to get the drive shaft right the rear end pinion would be pointed up at the same angle to make the center lines Parallel.. sometimes in a T bucket that will make the out of the box headers point down. I like the look when the exhaust is level to the ground.. if you adjust engine angle you can buy wedge plates to reset the carb.level ... there are a lot of carb wedge plates used on boat engines

 

[Brucer]

Usually you set a level on the intake manifold so the carb will be level.... in most cars this will have the crankshaft-trans main shaft pointed down a little to the rear... to get the drive shaft right the rear end pinion would be pointed up at the same angle to make the center lines Parallel.. sometimes in a T bucket that will make the out of the box headers point down. I like the look when the exhaust is level to the ground.. if you adjust engine angle you can buy wedge plates to reset the carb.level ... there are a lot of carb wedge plates used on boat engines

your correct, over the years, and the different intake manufacurers the intake angles vary alot... i used the top of the block and ened up lvling it.. also when you do your mockup, dont weld your transmount solid, just tack it, that way you can still move if needed..

a few drag cars and trucks i built years back, i set the pinion 3degrees down, with engine and tranny level, they were all ladderbar vehicles.. several of these were street driven also.

 

[butch27]

your correct, over the years, and the different intake manufacurers the intake angles vary alot... i used the top of the block and ened up lvling it.. also when you do your mockup, dont weld your transmount solid, just tack it, that way you can still move if needed..

a few drag cars and trucks i built years back, i set the pinion 3degrees down, with engine and tranny level, they were all ladderbar vehicles.. several of these were street driven also.

I don't see ANY photos??