Asking on A Jag rearend again .. part 2

[itsed2]

Thanks guys for all your help.. but needed to ask one more thing ,, well im sure there will be a lot ,, any way ,, can a axel be cut down on a jaf rearend , and work , i was told by a shop here ,,no,,, but still thought id ask the guys that would know,, So im asking ,, thanks

 

[Youngster]

Yes it can be cut down. The axles (dogbones) and lower struts can be cut. But why do you ask, curious. If your rear tread with is too wide you can use rim offset to compensate. Cutting them down might also change the ride characteristics. You would want to go to a softer coil on your shocks too.

Ron

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Here is a very good series on mounting the Jag. This happens to be in a Mustang, but still lots of useful info, including how to shorten the half-shafts and lower control arms.

Using "back-set" to move your wheels closer to the body can work, up to a point. Because of the way the hub carrier hangs down to connect to the lower control arm, you are limited to about 4-7/8" back-set with a 15-inch wheel. 16-inch wheel won't have that problem, I don't think (don't know for sure).

Here is what I'm talking about...

 

[GAB]

Here is one that I did way back when, that was for a car where the owner had some very distinct ideas about how he wanted the wheels to set in the fenders. It has been so long ago that I can't remember whether it was shortened or lengthened...it seems like it was longer as it was an original E-type Jag. Anyway, I re-tubed the lower control arm and kept the position of the lower shock mounts in the same proportions as far as the leverage on the shocks. The original half shaft was the forged type and it was replaced with the fabricated style...2 yokes and a tube.

Youngster is right, you can do some juggling with wheel sizes and offsets. Lee is also correct in that the lower portion of the hub carrier can be a problem unless you go to some pretty large diameter wheels.

 

[Youngster]

WOW ... Thanks Lee ... Great reference!!!!

Ron

 

[Gerry]

WOW ... Thanks Lee ... Great reference!!!!

Ron

Now heres the thing.
My axles have been shortened to suit the bottom arms. there is a sequence that must be followed to shorten a Jag IRS. If you want to do this let me know. It involves careful measurement and a Lot of messing around. Remember that to shorten the axle is NOT a case of cut and weld. It involves machining both end and to tight toloences. then the lower arms have to be treated the same way. Its not rocket science just good engineering. As I said in another post we have shortened one of these to 8 inches and it worked with no problem in a heavy saloon car with a big block. The car used to burn out like a FC. Never had a problem with ride or breakages.
Gerry

 

[Ted Brown]

Here is one that I did way back when, that was for a car where the owner had some very distinct ideas about how he wanted the wheels to set in the fenders. It has been so long ago that I can't remember whether it was shortened or lengthened...it seems like it was longer as it was an original E-type Jag. Anyway, I re-tubed the lower control arm and kept the position of the lower shock mounts in the same proportions as far as the leverage on the shocks. The original half shaft was the forged type and it was replaced with the fabricated style...2 yokes and a tube.

Youngster is right, you can do some juggling with wheel sizes and offsets. Lee is also correct in that the lower portion of the hub carrier can be a problem unless you go to some pretty large diameter wheels.

Well Gab, that is how a jag should be mounted so that everything is able to move a bit, to end the binding and breakage, just as the stock Jag is mounted.
As far as shortening goes, with the use of the new off set U joints to give more swing travel without binding, or the yokes turned 90 degrees to each other will also give more travel, but wondering why? as a XKE is VERY short stock, (not a flanged wheel, knock-offs) follow that Jag and you can see all 4 tires, the rears are that much narrower than the front... great for cornering... Ride safe

 

[Ted Brown]

Jag bought this rear end setup from Ford, as it was first made for the Cobra, it is all American, including the Ford posi-lock and gears, they may have made some changes since they first bought the setup... I don't think it was good enough in the traction dept, for that engine, fine for a road course with smaller engines... :thumb:

 

[Hot Rod Todd]

This seems to be turning in to a PC v Mac thing. I love Jag IRS on Ts, they look a million dollars, ride like silk if they are set up correctly and WILL bite like a Bit** on take off. Its all down to personal choice. Dont be put off if its what you really want.

Gerry

I read that Mustang article earlier this week as I have a spare XJ6 rear end that is too wide for my application. Then I went to the racecar shop next door and asked if he could take 2.5 inches off each side. He told me $500 and thinks it will take 6-8 hours to do the whole job.

I know a 9 inch with 4 bars is easier, but I reckon a chromed Jag bum looks way cool.

So Im with Gerry - follow your dreams.

 

[Gerry]

I read that Mustang article earlier this week as I have a spare XJ6 rear end that is too wide for my application. Then I went to the racecar shop next door and asked if he could take 2.5 inches off each side. He told me $500 and thinks it will take 6-8 hours to do the whole job.

I know a 9 inch with 4 bars is easier, but I reckon a chromed Jag bum looks way cool.

So Im with Gerry - follow your dreams.

heres a couple of pics taken at a show last year. Couple of British Ts using Jag IRS. Cool or what




gerry

 

[Gerry]

Hi Todd
YEP fenders are a requirement of the Construction and Use act (as it was before Euro trash got involved) and still is. The funny thing is that the Ministry of transport test we have to put our cars through every year does not (at the moment) have a requirement for fenders.
In saying that the Police may take your car off the road if its fenderless and they feel grumpy. Or they may give you a fix it, which means you ahve to get it tested again with fenders on and present the certificate to them.
I got a ticket for running VERY small 'surfboard' fenders about 40 years ago. Cost me 25 bucks.

The disk I have on mine are racing Jag ones. They are much thicker and IMHO look better. Some people make custom ones with drilled or milled surfaces.

As for a parking brake caliper I have modified my T to take a gocart rear brake, and you are right the Jag version is a DOG. I will dig out some pics and post them later. Also while I think about it my parking brake lever was got off EBay and is a stainless steel replacement for the OLD style Mini. It works great and look cute.
Gerry

Heres some pics of the set up








If these are not good enough to see the set up let me know and I will take some more pics.
gerry

 

[Gerry]

Hi Todd
YEP fenders are a requirement of the Construction and Use act (as it was before Euro trash got involved) and still is. The funny thing is that the Ministry of transport test we have to put our cars through every year does not (at the moment) have a requirement for fenders.
In saying that the Police may take your car off the road if its fenderless and they feel grumpy. Or they may give you a fix it, which means you ahve to get it tested again with fenders on and present the certificate to them.
I got a ticket for running VERY small 'surfboard' fenders about 40 years ago. Cost me 25 bucks.

The disk I have on mine are racing Jag ones. They are much thicker and IMHO look better. Some people make custom ones with drilled or milled surfaces.

As for a parking brake caliper I have modified my T to take a gocart rear brake, and you are right the Jag version is a DOG. I will dig out some pics and post them later. Also while I think about it my parking brake lever was got off EBay and is a stainless steel replacement for the OLD style Mini. It works great and look cute.
Gerry

sorry to keep doing this but I cant edit after I have done the first post.
Hope you can see the disks in this pic. They are the racing Jag ones. NOT cheap but worth it.

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Bad idea. Jag-- spent millions of dollars on engineers and designers. This is an old '70's idea. There are many technical reasons I can tell you why it won't work well!!
The Mark X Sedan is wider and works perfect on a T-Bucket using two springs weight racial is perfect , no drilling for bolt pattern needed.
Jag, Coupe, and Roadster type, if you put the car in an hard lean on a '23 T-Bucket, can hit the tires can rub the sides of the body.

The four springs altogether are too stiff for a T body. "T-Buckets, all of them, Norm's idea."

"leg show t," ordinarily I would say welcome to the forum to a first-time poster, but I'm not so sure you are welcome here. Using the name of one of our regular member's car as your user name, using a pic of another regular member's car as your avatar, making strong negative comments without establishing your credibility or expertise first... not really a good start with this group. :thumb:

Your statements are completely counter to my experience with the Jag rear-end. Mine rides great (4 160# springs) and has great traction off the line. I don't have a posi, but both tires grab equally, as you can see in this pic of a full-throttle launch...

 

[putz]

sorry to keep doing this but I cant edit after I have done the first post.
Hope you can see the disks in this pic. They are the racing Jag ones. NOT cheap but worth it.
[attachment=4311:rear disks.JPG]

You should custom drill your rotors with all the holes making T's all the way around.

 

[adey]

You culd use the xj40 hubs which have outboard discs and calipers and a good handbrake.(handbrake in a draum inside the disc) These will bolt up with a little modification to the early diffs. thats the way my t is going.

 

[Aussie T]

Three questions:

are fenders a legal requirement in the UK?
Is there a better vented disc that bolts up?
Whats the best caliper to use as the Jag handbrake (e brake)is a bit of a dog?

Thanks
Todd

Todd
The Jag's handbrake does not have to be a "Dog", it depends how it is setup.

I tried setting mine up just using a single cable using the outer sheath for one side and the inner cable to pull the other caliper, but I found it wasn't pulling evenly on both calipers, nor releasing properly.
After a bit of thinking, I tried setting up a "bellcrank" type setup and just using the inner cable to pull on that.

Downunda we have to put our cars on a Brake machine (like a dyno) that tests braking ability before they will pass you for rego. I passed the footbrake test with flying colors and the handbrake (or e brake as some call it) ran up to 85% of the same force. Pretty impressive and the BEST the rego boys have ever seen a Jag rear pull. Check out the pics and if you need more info let me know.

Aussie T(Tim)

 

[Gerry]

Thanks Gerry, I will go off and track down a small disc brake to fit to the front of the diff.

And how "not cheap" are those vented discs? Mind you, theres probably none down here anyway.

Doesnt the series 111 have vented discs from the factory? If so, will they fit my diff without modifications?

I appreciate your help

Cheers
Todd

Todd
I made the disk for the front of the diff. As you may have noticed its got a V in its circumference which drive the alternator as well. Cutting that V was a real headache without a form tool but I got it after a while. The V needs to be 2 degrees less than the V of the belt to offer grip. V betls drive on their sides not on the bottom. Cant remember how much the disks were but they are also thicker than the stock vented ones. Contact any race car company and I am sure they can point you to someone who may keep these. They were used on loads of Jags for roundy roundy stuff As far as i can remember all Jag IRS of this type used the same hole patterns.
Gerry

 

[Youngster]

Anymore thoughts or questions about a Jag rear?

Ron

 

[GT63]

Anymore thoughts or questions about a Jag rear?

Ron

How about this? It's based on a Ford 8.8 IRS.

The brackets are made by 321 Hot Rods

 

[putz]

How about this? It's based on a Ford 8.8 IRS.

The brackets are made by 321 Hot Rods

pretty cool designs on website.