Ron, I took all the Important info on the other thread and put it in your new thread. As Gerry put it to much good info to lose.
Asking on A Jag rearend again .. part 2
- Thread starter itsed2
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Ron, I took all the Important info on the other thread and put it in your new thread. As Gerry put it to much good info to lose.
fluidfloyd
Active Member
How about this? It's based on a Ford 8.8 IRS.
GT63,
These are pretty well thought out suspension systems. As it is a true upper/lower A-Arm design it has much better roll geometry as compaired to a Jag or C4 and earlier Corvette. The only real draw back to an upper A-Arm design is clearance. Most hot rods have floor or frame issues. In a T-bucket you could design for that problem. You just have to have enough vertical clearence so the upper arm doesn't hit anything. These rear ends came under a number of Ford vehicles and are usually pretty cost reasonable.
George
GT63,
These are pretty well thought out suspension systems. As it is a true upper/lower A-Arm design it has much better roll geometry as compaired to a Jag or C4 and earlier Corvette. The only real draw back to an upper A-Arm design is clearance. Most hot rods have floor or frame issues. In a T-bucket you could design for that problem. You just have to have enough vertical clearence so the upper arm doesn't hit anything. These rear ends came under a number of Ford vehicles and are usually pretty cost reasonable.
George
GAB
Member
One other thing that I don't believe has been mentioned in this thread and generally gets overlooked is the plate for the bottom of the center section. This ties the cast brackets that the lower control arms attach to so as to reduce the possible breakage due to the leverage of the arms. The cast brackets have two attaching bolts for mounting to the center section that are closer together.
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Further to George's post... the eight bolts shown in the pic go into threaded holes in the brackets that are already there. The plate replaces the bottom portion of the stock cage that holds the rear-end in an OEM set-up, and those holes are where the cage bolted to the bottom of the diff. Very important piece of reinforcement, in my humble opinion.
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Further to George's post... the eight bolts shown in the pic go into threaded holes in the brackets that are already there. The plate replaces the bottom portion of the stock cage that holds the rear-end in an OEM set-up, and those holes are where the cage bolted to the bottom of the diff. Very important piece of reinforcement, in my humble opinion.
Gerry
Well-Known Member
If you can wait a few day I have to strip my IRS for paint. I can take pics of the diff carrier (the fab'd bit under the diff that carries the bottom arms or radius rods as you might call them) which may give you some ideas. If you need to do your thing now then maybe the pics will help for the future.
One thing is for SURE. The bolts that go into the diff casting from the bottom pivots are KNOWN for loosening off. Even if you loctite them... Its where all the stress is concentrated.
Gerry
One thing is for SURE. The bolts that go into the diff casting from the bottom pivots are KNOWN for loosening off. Even if you loctite them... Its where all the stress is concentrated.
Gerry
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
That's why mine are safety-wired. So are the top cone bolts.
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Hi lee
Not a bad thing to safety wire these. I would recommend it to anyone who is going this way. Jags dont use safety wire. And yes they do come loose.
For me safety wire is not an option so I have countersunk both the cone bolts and the carrier bolts ( which I have also tapped out to 12mm.) With the CS bolts giving a larger 'seat' and much better location I figure that I dont need safety wire. I may be wrong but only time and miles will proove it. Or NOT.
UK buckets using stright bolts dont seem to have a problem!!!!.
Cant STRESS the importance of safety. Lee has the correct answer to the loose bolt thing. I am going out on a limb, cause thats a FAD thing. I will always admit when Im wrong so stay tuned
Gerry
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Actually Gerry, I believe the stock Jags are safety-wired. At least mine was. I bought my '77 XJ6 rear-end still in the stock cage, and both the top bolts and the bracket bolts were safety-wired. That's where I got the idea. I ordered stock replacement cone bolts from an on-line Jag parts house and they were already drilled for safety-wire.
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Lee
I stand corrected. I know the outer bearing flanges on the diff were always drilled for safety wire, as mine are now. But I cant ever remember the cone and carrier bolts being that way. But I use the OLD S type (60s) rear ends so maybe thats the difference. Either way i still say go with the safety wire or come up with a grub screw alternative to neaten thing up
G
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Just taken a couple of pics that may hep. I figure that CS bolts have such a good seating that safety wire is not needed but I could be wrong?
gerry
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Gerry, your brackets look to be custom fabbed. Mine don't look anything like that. They appear to be forgings with one large boss at each end where the swivel shaft passes through. You can kind of see them in this page from a how-to article I found back when I was working on mine. You can also see the safety wire in place.
Attachments
Gerry
Well-Known Member
lee
Yep they are custom made, as are the bottom arms (radius rods) and hub carriers. The diff carrier is made to be a tight fit (read you need a small hammer to get it on) on to the machined surfaces of the diff. Thats one way to stop any movement and prevent the bolts getting loose.
Yours are the original forgings. They are a little lacking in location for my tastes but have prooved to be more than adequate for many T and lots of BHP. Although I have known them to break at the thin point between the ends. The only location is the two bolts in to the diff casting. If you then add any shims behind them (for toe in/out adjustment) thats a lot to rely on with BIG BHP. The other thing is that I am NOT running tie rods from the chassis to the hub carriers so all thats holding my IRS in is the 4 bolts on the top of the diff casting and the carrier and tie straps to the chassis. Sounds likes madness but it works.
It all sounds like a lot of work but its not that bad. Just a bit of engineering that you are more than capable of doing.
gerry
Gerry
Well-Known Member
One other thing that I don't believe has been mentioned in this thread and generally gets overlooked is the plate for the bottom of the center section. This ties the cast brackets that the lower control arms attach to so as to reduce the possible breakage due to the leverage of the arms. The cast brackets have two attaching bolts for mounting to the center section that are closer together.
Just a warning. I forgot to put a hole in this plate for the drain plug until after it was on the car. Drill the hole now it saves a lot of hassel later
Gerry
My dad built the first car about 35 years ago.
no longer owned by him.
I wonder where it is now?
the second is owned by Chris Andrews, love that colour
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