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Body Question

C

CoronetRTguy

Member
Hi Ron,

can you tell me if your body on the inside is smooth or if it has the lip rail for the seats?

I was told if I find a body that has no seat rail or lip I can get down lower into the body with my seats. I'm not sure if this is ture or not but worth checking into.

I want to build a traditional looking T bucket with bomber seats. I will be adding a little padding to the bomber seats.

Also how far forward can I run the gas and break pedel?

Can you hang the pedels off the firewall?

Also how far should I messure for the engine and transmission? I want to use a big block Mopar motor. I have found three motors. The one is a 440 and the other two are 383s. I'm not sure how to messure for the frame and the body.

I wish I could find a step by step book on building a T bucket so I could really get a good idea.

Thanks for any and all info.
 
The only way to hang pedals on the firewall it to make a steel one. I certainly wouldn't trust wood or fiberglass. Almost all brake pedals are mounted under the floor for this reason plus it makes for a clean look. I have never seen a body without a lip. The panel would be flimsy as heck because the flange is what gives it strength. With the angle of the back wall you will be fine for seat clearance anyways. I do not think you will need a stretched body at your height and with such a thin seat back.
 
fordsbyjay said:
The only way to hang pedals on the firewall it to make a steel one. I certainly wouldn't trust wood or fiberglass. Almost all brake pedals are mounted under the floor for this reason plus it makes for a clean look. I have never seen a body without a lip. The panel would be flimsy as heck because the flange is what gives it strength. With the angle of the back wall you will be fine for seat clearance anyways. I do not think you will need a stretched body at your height and with such a thin seat back.
Click to expand...

Hey thanks on the info. I think I will be fine too with a regular body but just want to make sure.

I want to use bomber seats or early Corvette, Mustang or T' bird seats. I might try and make my own.

The floor is also another thing I'm not 100% sure, but I guess I make it out of wood and then use fiber glass over it? Can I use metal for the flooring?
 
Most bucket floors are 3/4" ply (some use marine ply) with 'glass top and bottom to seal moisture. I'm going to use pick up bed liner paint for extra protection. John
 
For my frame measurements, I will figure the distance from the kick up at the rear of the body to the firewall, firewall to the trans mount, then to the water pump fan flange, add 2" then thickness of my electric fan, radiator thickness, then 2" and that will be the distance to the back of my front cross member. I like to use 2 1/2" round tube for the front cross member and 1 1/2" x 3" 11 gauge (.120") for the frame. I cut a 2 1/2" hole on the inside of the frame rails and a 1/2 circle on the outside and form the top and bottom of the frame around the cross member to make a real pretty joint. I may need to make a drawing to explain that if you want to try something like that. I had a real simple jig to make the cuts with a torch "back in the day" when I supported my bucket habit by selling frames!
John
 
old round fart said:
For my frame measurements, I will figure the distance from the kick up at the rear of the body to the firewall, firewall to the trans mount, then to the water pump fan flange, add 2" then thickness of my electric fan, radiator thickness, then 2" and that will be the distance to the back of my front cross member. I like to use 2 1/2" round tube for the front cross member and 1 1/2" x 3" 11 gauge (.120") for the frame. I cut a 2 1/2" hole on the inside of the frame rails and a 1/2 circle on the outside and form the top and bottom of the frame around the cross member to make a real pretty joint. I may need to make a drawing to explain that if you want to try something like that. I had a real simple jig to make the cuts with a torch "back in the day" when I supported my bucket habit by selling frames!
John
Click to expand...

Hey John, if you do a drawing that would be great.

Tell me is there a way of cutting round holes in the frame? I would pout some round tubing in where the holes are cut. I would like to give it that look of saving weight.

Also is Zing a frame up front worth it? Does it save me any room or take up more room?

I really want that low look and with me inside it sitting down low.
 
I think Ron @RPM is making frames with lightning holes. Try him.

As for zing the frame that is personal taste. If I was going to do it, I would do it behind the firewall. I'm not doing it on my frame, but after it gets past the firewall my frame is going to drop until it is 3" lower at the sat area so I will sit like an unchanneled car, but it will look like a channeled car. My floor is in now and I think it is going to work slick.

I will try to figure out how to post a drawing. May take me a while.
 
old round fart said:
I think Ron @RPM is making frames with lightning holes. Try him.

As for zing the frame that is personal taste. If I was going to do it, I would do it behind the firewall. I'm not doing it on my frame, but after it gets past the firewall my frame is going to drop until it is 3" lower at the sat area so I will sit like an unchanneled car, but it will look like a channeled car. My floor is in now and I think it is going to work slick.

I will try to figure out how to post a drawing. May take me a while.
Click to expand...

Hey no problem on the picture. I'm very intersted in seeing your car and how it looks with the floor in and the frame done.

I will check with Ron on the frame also.
 
old round fart said:
Here is my build thread.
http://www.tbucketeers.com/threads/spirit-stretch-body.14758/
Click to expand...

Thanks I got it and saved it. I really like that dolly you made. You are going to have a great looking T bucket when done.

The more I read, the more I see pictures, the more I just want to dive in and build one. I found a steering wheel (2 of them) both for 75 bucks but they look to be MoonEye and that is the price of a new one from them. They also came off a VW so not sure if they will work with any after market steering colum. I think they both are 13.5" wheels.

I was also thinking of trying to find the Mopar tuff wheel. I think they are reproducing that one.

I'm stuck on having a Mopar motor but it might be better if I went Ford or Chevy in the long run or at least on my wallet. I'm just way to much of a Mopar guy lol.
 
old round fart said:
Had a friend that had a 440/torqueflight in a bucket. Very fast! Go for it!
Click to expand...

Haha I bet it was and it wouldnt take that much to make a Bucket run fast. I even thought about a Slant six. There is a group on the Mopar boards that hop up the six and hey run strong.

The 440 doesnt have the trans and that is a missing link that can cost me as much as the motor around here. The two 383s come with the trans and thats a big plus and I can get (I think) some Red Ram valve covers to fit...I think.
 
old round fart said:
Want a Desoto Hemi? I have a friend with 2 of them for sale!
Click to expand...

What is the price? Also location of them?

I love the early Hemi's. It might be out of my budget right now, unless he will have them until late summer. I get out of college in August and my build will take off then...I hope. I'm trying to get the body and frame and a few odds and ends when I can find them.

I found a couple of S-10 rear ends, one is 75 about an hour or two from me that I might try and get if the guy can deliver to me. The other is 50 bucks but I'm betting its for a 4x4 and Im waiting to hear back.

I found a set of steering wheels but 75 bucks for both and he wont just sell one.

Give me more info on the early Hemi. Thanks.
 
His name is Tod and his business is in Marlow Ok. He's going to a big swap meet in Duncan Ok. this weekend and if he doesn't sell them, I'll send you contact info. I think they were $600 for the pair, but I may be wrong. He is not answering his phone right now, so I can't confirm.
 
old round fart said:
His name is Tod and his business is in Marlow Ok. He's going to a big swap meet in Duncan Ok. this weekend and if he doesn't sell them, I'll send you contact info. I think they were $600 for the pair, but I may be wrong. He is not answering his phone right now, so I can't confirm.
Click to expand...

Ok thank you and sounds good. Do you know if they have a trans with them?
 
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