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brake light switch ??

I think the weight of these cars makes it possible to have barake action before a pressure switch activates. I will go with Ron Francis to keep some jerk from hitting me. I will have to much money in this thing to worry about the price of a brake switch!

WOW, really?
 
Hey, it even happens in current-day Fords as the driver modulates pedal pressure coming to a stop. I for one hate the blinkblinkblinkblink of brake lights triggered a pressure switch.
 
I'm w/the "no pressure switch" group , 1st one failed after about a year , second one made it maybe 2 years , same symptom , had to pump up the brakes to get it to work , now I did have it in the rear brake line & maybe that's the problem , but I went to the mech. like Lee pictured & it has performed perfectly for nearly 8 years .

dave
 
I have installed over 100 of the vw pressure switchs on sand rails,off road vehicles and never had a problem or 1 come back to me. I think its alot cleaner of a look and be installed just about anywhere in the line.
 
Just thought a race car guru might not think about the obvious. IMHO pressure switches are not a good choice. Sorry.

AS a race car guru I construct simpicity where needed and buy the best part made for it, That is why I only use VW/Bosch (can we say Millions used) and not conveinent and cheap "HELP" parts.

AS a race car guru and having worked on SCCA, SCORE offroad & closed corse, I can assure you that we did not use mechanical switchs where we would encounter dificult enviroments.
 
I'm with Bruce D. on this one, the pressure switch has been around for along time. Yes, all switches do malfunction, blame the US for having crap made in China to pass on to the American Public.
Most all Motorcycles used to have the elect. switch when you pressed down, the spring pulled the plunger on the electric switch. A good quality hydraulic switch is hard to beat, but maybe a little overkill on a bucket. I'm running a pressure switch screwed into my Proportioner valve.
BUT, for easy of adjustment/price the good ole adjustable mechanical/ electrical is easier to mount, adjust and replace.
 
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I have used both and have no complaint against either type. My current coupe and T-bucket both have GM type mechanical switches because I wanted them under the dash completely out of sight. Pressure type are sometimes easier to mount and service depending on location/accessibility.
 
My pressure switch is 20 years old. I've noticed it takes more pressure now than it used to; I have to really stand on the brakes before the lights go on. So I'm going to replace it with a mechanical one.
 
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The pressure switch introduces 3 new places for your brake system to leak. They're a pain to change when they fail (and they will). And, at 60 mph, you're traveling at 88 feet per second. If your brake light comes on a half second faster, you've given the guy behind you 44 more feet of warning before he hits you. By the way, I had one of those "cheap" GM switches under my Tub T for 12 years and never had a problem. And it was exposed to all kinds of weather.
 

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