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Bucket Body

estesken

Member
Anyone know who produces bodies from Paynesville, MN. I am wandering about quality.
 
I have been wondering the same thing myself. If quality is good my other problem would be shipping.
Ron A.
 
This manufacturer is new and I haven't seen any of their products as yet. They are a few hour drive from me and plan to check them out in the near future. In the past a good rule of thimb is "you get what you pay for". I'm not sure if that applies here or not. An inexpensive body will work as well as a pricey one, just more work to get it done properly.

Ron
 
I call the guy and lets just say they might be a similar to what MAS Racing is selling. Somewhere on this forum suggested they are good. Question I have for the group is how thick is good enough?
 
Well that depends on how it was made, hand laid or chopper gun, you can get more detail with the chopper gun, but the operator really needs to know what they are doing, and use tracer threads also, they are usually heavier than the hand lay ups, a good quality hand laid body is or may be somewhat flexible, but that really does not matter if it is a good job... as any late model car is waaay flexible... just so that the edges are good and strong.. just my take on it... :rolleyes:
 
Only if there is a lot of tight spaces to get into, then the chopper is better but heavier, hand laid bodies are for light weight, so for a street car, a good chopper body would be really a good choice, that is what most all business parts are made of... it seems... Lighter/thinner is easier in some ways.. kind of a toss up.. :D
 
CCR has the best and strongest body for the money in my opinion. No wood needed 6 inch streach with a door it is the cats meeeeeow.
 
Since I also have one I will have to agree with Rooster.
 
I have used MAS bodies and had no problem getting the to be a usable body. They do need work to get to that point. For the budget builder with 'glass sav'e they can save you some money. I did like the Ai body i used, much like a Speedway body, as is the Polyform body. The gel coat was real nice on the Polyform body. Another way to save some money buying a body is to go to the larger shows and buy the display body. They usually are the best they have because they are using it for a display. I bought the Polyform body at BTT50's for $100 under catalog price and no shipping fees.

Ron
 
The body that I got from Kennys Rod and Kustom is very thick. It has no flex to it, and has a 4" stretch. But, it is a little pricey at 750.
 
ccr streach body with a door and 20 inch bed is around 2200.00
 
Just picked her up! thickness is about 1/8". Not sure if that is what you typically want or not. Roy is a great guy. His bodies are the MAS bodies. I will measure it and get back to you guys. Looks very small. george
 
George, check up in the top of the cowl where the windshield mounts. That is typically where those bodies are the thinnest. Also measure the sides at the rear of the door revel and the cowl, they sometimes vary as much as 1/2". Trim as needed.

One thing you want to do with these bodies is to build a 2x4 body stand that is level and set the body on it as soon as possible. I run 3-2x4's accross the bottom of the stand extending afoot past the sides with a 5/8" piece of plywood on the ends so you have 3" to the top of the 2x4. Hang a 2or 3 pound weight at the front and the rear of the door. Then set it in the sun for a few days to finish curing. They are very often " green" when you get them. When the curing is done, 'glass the floor in on the stand using 3/4" plywood. It should hold it's shape now.

Ron
 
The width of the dash opening/front inside of body is 32 1/2"
Lenth inside of body fron dash to rear is 43"
Width where top edge of body goes up towards the back is 42"
Hight is 21" tall from the floor to top of body measured at middle of door.

Glass seems really thick at windshield mounting points.
 

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