Corvair Box
- Thread starter RocknT
- Start date
donsrods
Member
No, that sounds excessive. There is a nut with a slotted head screw in the center of it on the side of the box. The nut is simply a jam nut and you turn the screw in to take up slack and make it tighter. You just want to do it in small increments until it has only a slight amount of play, then tighten the nut back up while holding the slotted part with a screwdriver so it can't move. Oh, turning it clockwise tightens it up.
Also, there is a "high spot" in the rotation of the steering shaft, it is dead center through the turns. For example, if your box is 5 1/2 turns lock to lock, it will be at about 2 3/4 turns. You will feel it get tighter in that spot when you turn the wheel. You want that spot to be dead center when the car is going straight. That spot helps keep the car from wandering and cuts down on death wobble.
Don
Also, there is a "high spot" in the rotation of the steering shaft, it is dead center through the turns. For example, if your box is 5 1/2 turns lock to lock, it will be at about 2 3/4 turns. You will feel it get tighter in that spot when you turn the wheel. You want that spot to be dead center when the car is going straight. That spot helps keep the car from wandering and cuts down on death wobble.
Don
Sent you some directions. If you need more help call me or email me.
865-932-7541
tbucket@comcast.net
865-932-7541
tbucket@comcast.net
donsrods
Member
That violent shimmy you describe is probably what is called "death wobble" and has been the subject of many discussions on various forums recently and for quite some time.
A lot of things contribute to it. Loose steering box is one, excessive play in any of the front end components is another (kingpins, tierod ends, etc) Incorrect toe in and caster can be other contributors.
My Son's T was plagued with severe death wobble when he punched it. We went back to square one and redid everything. We found his wheelbase was off 9/16 of an inch side to side, his toe in was 3/16 instead of 1/16, his caster was about 11 degrees rather than 4-7, his friction shocks were too loose, and his wheels were way out of balance.
We seem to have fixed it, but recently my own T developed the problem and I think we have narrowed it down to weak front hydraulic shocks and a bent rim. I am replacing both before I drive it again. Once you experience death wobble you DON'T EVER want it to happen again. It'll make you think of taking up golf real quick.
Go back and recheck everything on your car and retighten every fastner.
Don
A lot of things contribute to it. Loose steering box is one, excessive play in any of the front end components is another (kingpins, tierod ends, etc) Incorrect toe in and caster can be other contributors.
My Son's T was plagued with severe death wobble when he punched it. We went back to square one and redid everything. We found his wheelbase was off 9/16 of an inch side to side, his toe in was 3/16 instead of 1/16, his caster was about 11 degrees rather than 4-7, his friction shocks were too loose, and his wheels were way out of balance.
We seem to have fixed it, but recently my own T developed the problem and I think we have narrowed it down to weak front hydraulic shocks and a bent rim. I am replacing both before I drive it again. Once you experience death wobble you DON'T EVER want it to happen again.
It'll make you think of taking up golf real quick. Go back and recheck everything on your car and retighten every fastner.
Don
Clark's Corvair Parts - Clark's Corvair - Clarks Corvair Parts
Go here and click on Technical Tips then scroll down to Steering Box Adj.click on the 17 next to it scroll down to the bottom.Right click and click on save picture as then save to your 'puter.I save my pics to my desk top fpr review.Now right click on the pick and review this way you can blow it up to read it better.The whole process of adjustment from the factory is here.What i find interesting is the use of a torque wrench through out the process.And the removing off the pitman arm which makes it easer to "read " the box.Hope this helps.Maybe some one will take the time and type the WHOLE procedure in our tech tips area.(I'd fall asleep)LOL
Go here and click on Technical Tips then scroll down to Steering Box Adj.click on the 17 next to it scroll down to the bottom.Right click and click on save picture as then save to your 'puter.I save my pics to my desk top fpr review.Now right click on the pick and review this way you can blow it up to read it better.The whole process of adjustment from the factory is here.What i find interesting is the use of a torque wrench through out the process.And the removing off the pitman arm which makes it easer to "read " the box.Hope this helps.Maybe some one will take the time and type the WHOLE procedure in our tech tips area.(I'd fall asleep)LOL
donsrods
Member
You were lucky you were only going about 40 when it hit. The second time mine did it I had just entered the Interstate from an off ramp and decided to blow out some carbon.:lol: I kicked it hard.......real hard, and was running through the gears and at maybe 80 or 90 I started to see the left front wheel start to slightly oscillate. By the time I got off the gas it was into full death wobble. I hit the brakes hard and it stopped, and in my rearview mirror I see this Greyhound bus grille right on my tail......probably 20 feet behind me. All I could see was grille.
It was then I decided to take care of this problem once and for all.:lol:
Don
All I could see was grille. It was then I decided to take care of this problem once and for all.:lol:
Don
That adjustment guide will not work on T bucket because the situtations are different. You wouldnt need to pull the pitman arm off for one. The rest of the advice is fairly right. However, you wouldnt need to pull off your horn button to check your end play. You would just check it by feel. Mikey
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