Door Hinges
- Thread starter jimbo01
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![100_4749[1].jpg](https://tbucketeer.com/data/attachments/2/2188-5670e537f9aef686389676fd4356097b.jpg "100_4749[1].jpg")
![100_4750[1].jpg](https://tbucketeer.com/data/attachments/2/2189-7d39a8e425cbb59ff06a4ae603a79776.jpg "100_4750[1].jpg")
![100_4744[1].jpg](https://tbucketeer.com/data/attachments/2/2190-c4310dc267949e2c1865e1a42421736c.jpg "100_4744[1].jpg")
Boy, I like the way those upper and lower hinges tie together, looks stronger than hell, if that hinge could be modified to fit flush on the inside of a fiberglass body it would be perfect. Better yet Ron could you make a left hand and righthand set of these for a Spirit body??
captainjunk
Member
i spent the $20 and bought a hinge from the auction now to figure out how to make a working door out of it 
The triangular ones work the best and are the most common stock ones you'll find (like the ones in Oscar's post).
The hing pin line will be perpendicular to the ground. This will set your door so it opens straight out, not in a sagging position. This will also make it much easier to set the clearence on the back edge of the door so you don't chip the paint. Speaking of chipping paint, I file the gaps between the hinge barrels to at least 1/16" clearence on all but the top gap.
Ron
The hing pin line will be perpendicular to the ground. This will set your door so it opens straight out, not in a sagging position. This will also make it much easier to set the clearence on the back edge of the door so you don't chip the paint. Speaking of chipping paint, I file the gaps between the hinge barrels to at least 1/16" clearence on all but the top gap.
Ron
I made a hinge for a customer out of 2 barrel hinges from Fleet Farm. Just trimmed them down to the right width and cut some 10 ga. for the part in the door jam and TIG welder it together. He wanted to chrome them and we couldn't find a good stocker. By the time I got them done he was looking at a $65 bill for time and materials.
Ron
Ron
jimbo01
Member
After looking the hinge situation over and the comments left, I realized that there was a age line showing from the exposed hinge area and the protected area inside the door. This line can be seen in picture #3. So with this being said I can see where the hinge should be and it looks like picture #2 is the correct way. The only question I have now is what is the correct height of the hinge from the top of the body?
jimbo01
Member
Thank you Ron
RocknT
Member
I have been following this ,, and I have been trying to get my hinges on,,, if I woulda known doors where such a pain in the aaaa,,, I would have just skipped this part,, LOL I got mine lined up but having a heck of time getting the doors lined up with the body ,, I just must be missing something ,, I used the two piece hinges from speedway and took the pins out and used one long rod to join them together till I get them all set and mounted then will pull the rod and put the pins back in .
jimbo01
Member
Ron,
I'm not sure who the question was for? My body has been wooded and around the door frame. I haven't wooded the doors yet because of the adhesive holding the fiberglass. I'll find out what a pain it is to remove the fiberglass after the door frame (body) has been cut first. Then once I see how that comes apart I'll wood the door. Not only that, but I also have latches coming later this week and before I got to carried away with the wooding I wanted to see just how these were going to go in so I could plan the wooding around them too.
I'm not sure who the question was for? My body has been wooded and around the door frame. I haven't wooded the doors yet because of the adhesive holding the fiberglass. I'll find out what a pain it is to remove the fiberglass after the door frame (body) has been cut first. Then once I see how that comes apart I'll wood the door. Not only that, but I also have latches coming later this week and before I got to carried away with the wooding I wanted to see just how these were going to go in so I could plan the wooding around them too.
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