Front axle questions

[Track T-4]

I want to remove the front axle to get it painted or powder coated. The previous owner really banged it up so it's another item due to be refinished. Have never done this before so I have a few questions.:
1. How do I pull the kingpins? I can see a bolt through the axle and partially into the side of each king pin, if I remove that bolt is there something else that needs to be undone to remove the kingpin?
2. If the car is up on jackstands can I just unbolt the shackles from the axle or do I need to be concerned about preload on the springs?
3. The part the shackle bolts to (name?) goes through the top of the axle and there is a nut on the bottom so I assume I can just remove the nut and pull it out of the axle?

Bruce

This is something many of you have done before so apologies for the newbee-isms.
Here are a couple of photos:

 

[RPM]

1. How do I pull the kingpins? I can see a bolt through the axle and partially into the side of each king pin, if I remove that bolt is there something else that needs to be undone to remove the kingpin?

Remove the thru bolt and the king pin should just slide out, if there is no rust holding it in. It will come out of the top of the axle.

2. If the car is up on jackstands can I just unbolt the shackles from the axle or do I need to be concerned about preload on the springs?

The should not be any load on the spring if you have the frame supported and the axle just hanging

3. The part the shackle bolts to (name?) goes through the top of the axle and there is a nut on the bottom so I assume I can just remove the nut and pull it out of the axle?

Those are called perch bolts, and yes they should just come out when you remove the nut from the bottom. Hopefully none of this is rusted in place, if it is some heat maybe required.

 

[Youngster]

Another way would be to do the spring first.

Loosen all the nuts first.

Remove the shackle nuts and plates. If the plates don't come off easy, jack the frame up a bit till they do.

Disconnect your steering, shocks and hair pins.

Roll the axle out from under the chassis and remove the brakes.

Now the spindles by removing the retaining pin. Just back the nut on the pin off a couple turns and drive it toward the front of the axle. Once it's loose back the nut off and pull it out. Your king pin should come out easily. When you reassemble remember to rotate the kingpin so the knoch lines up with the hole in the axle.

Remove the hair pin mounts and you should have a bare axle.

Be sure to have the powder coater plug the kingpin bores, the locating holes and the perch pin holes.

Ron

 

[Track T-4]

Guys,

Thanks much for the guidance. Doesn't sound too bad, I just didn't want to screw up anything.

Bruce

 

[donsrods]

No, it isn't the hardest job in the world, especially with one that looks to be in the good conditon yours is. Most times they are a ball of rust and it takes a lot to get the parts separated, but yours should come apart very easily.

Depending on what paint or powdercoat was used originally, you might have a little trouble getting an exact match in color. I had some wheels powder coated red one time and the red was a different shade than what I had sprayed the rest of the suspension with. Do you know what was used originally (brand and color code)?

Don

 

[Track T-4]

I share your concern about matching the red, for that reason I'm going to look for someone who can do the chrome-look powder coat. Thanks.

Bruce

 

[Youngster]

Have a test piece done first in both colors. Compair them to the car in sunlight.

Ron

 

[RPM]

I share your concern about matching the red, for that reason I'm going to look for someone who can do the chrome-look powder coat. Thanks.

Bruce

Take a look at the ceramic coat they use on headers. A little bit more $ but it shines and last so much longer.

 

[Youngster]

Good point Ron

Ron

 

[Track T-4]

thanks, Ron. I'll check it out.


Bruce

 

[Track T-4]

OK, the tube axle is off but the perch bolts are being stubborn. When these are installed in the axle are they usually a drop-in or are they pressed or threaded into the axle? I've used PB Blaster and a hammer but no movement. Maybe a press would work?

 

[Youngster]

You should be able to slide them out with a little help from a soft hammer. As I remember you had some problems with the backing plates for your brakes because the builder didn't clearence them after plating. This could be more of the same stuff. I guess i would have them pressed out. Be sure to check the clearences when you put it back together so this dosen't happen again.

Ron

 

[Track T-4]

The axle is all apart and the axle and spindles are now at the powder coater. Removing the perch bolts was a royal b!tch. I tried penetrating lube, a hammer and a press but they didn't budge. Took it to a local auto shop and they used everything they could find including a pneumatic impact hammer. The good news is the bolts are out, the bad news was that banging on the ends of the threads slightly mushroomed the bolts. I just got back from a machinist friend's house and he was able to chamfer the ends, chase the threads and save the perch bolts.

I didn't like the red so decided on a gray/aluminum/silver powder coat rather than a chrome-look. The chrome-look required a second (clear) coat but I didn't think the additional price was justified and unsure it would look okay beside the real chrome. Taking this opportunity to clean up the springs (painted inside the track nose), replace the spring liner, shine all the chrome, and check out the condition of all the parts.

Thanks to all for the suggestions.
Bruce

 

[Mike Britton]

We learn this by doing. What seems hard at first glance becomes routine after doing. Mike

 

[donsrods]

When you reassemble the front end use lots of antiseize on every fastener, and on the perch bolts where they slide into the axle. You will be glad you did if and when you ever take the front end apart again. It is a little messy to work with, but I coat everthing with it, especially stainless steel fasteners as they can gall on you without it.

Don

 

[Track T-4]

Thanks, Don...will do.

Question: I bought new spring liner with the lip from Speedway. Is this stuff installed as-is, should I apply some grease, or...?

 

[Youngster]

It should be good to go.

Ron

 

[Track T-4]

I was off on a couple of other projects - electric fuel pump, etc. - and now back to the front end. I purchased the spring liner with a lip from Speedway and having trouble installing it. First, I want to install it on the tops of the springs with the lip facing down...I think that would look better and that's how the old ones were. But the roll of liner rolls in the opposite direction. When I try to install it the lip gets kinked and looks like hell. Even if I install it under the spring in the direction it was rolled it looks basically the same. Is there a trick to mounting this stuff? It's thin plastic so the lip edge is not very pliable. Warming it doesn't appear to help. Is this the wrong stuff? Suggestions?

 

[Youngster]

I've used a heat gun with good success. You could call Speedway to see if they have any suggestions.

Ron

 

[Track T-4]

Thanks Ron,
I'm sure this is a minor deal for most but I'm anxious to get this thing back on the road. I tried a hair dryer but the edges were still very wavy. I finally laid the strips flat on the work bench and, holding a scissors flat on the strip, trimmed off half of the lip - went from 1/4" to about 1/8". Looks much better and the edge of the chrome springs show through now. Maybe too nit-picky.