Front Axle
- Thread starter Rick
- Start date
EX JUNK
Moderator
The first thing that I would do would be sure to mount the axle square and centered with the frame. I would then set the caster between 5 to 7 degrees negative (leaning toward the rear at the top of the kingpin). I would then set the toe in at no more than 1/8". With that basic set up, it should roll out of the garage just fine.
EX JUNK
Moderator
Mine is at 6 degrees also and handles beautifully. If you put too much caster in, it makes it a little harder to turn and too little tends to make the car want to wander. By that I mean that it is more difficult to maintain a straight line as you go down the road.
A good example of a lot of caster is a dragster. If you look at the front wheels as they try to turn, they lay way over, indicating the high degree of caster. But they set them up that way because they are built to go straight and the high caster setting helps a great deal.
A good example of a lot of caster is a dragster. If you look at the front wheels as they try to turn, they lay way over, indicating the high degree of caster. But they set them up that way because they are built to go straight and the high caster setting helps a great deal.
NTBA write up on caster.
You adjust your caster by adjusting the length of the UPPER clevises on your radius rods. Typically, about 5 degrees of caster is plenty, and in some cases 2 or 3 degrees is all thats required. Have you ever pushed a shopping cart around a grocery store, and noticed sometimes the front wheels shimmy? Thats way too much caster! So go easy on your caster adjustment. Finally, there is camber... you can't change it easily because it's built into the king pin bosses. However, as your king pin bushings wear out, you induce more camber. So check your king pins & bushings occasionally for wear.
See he says 5 max 2to 3 in some cases?
You adjust your caster by adjusting the length of the UPPER clevises on your radius rods. Typically, about 5 degrees of caster is plenty, and in some cases 2 or 3 degrees is all thats required. Have you ever pushed a shopping cart around a grocery store, and noticed sometimes the front wheels shimmy? Thats way too much caster! So go easy on your caster adjustment. Finally, there is camber... you can't change it easily because it's built into the king pin bosses. However, as your king pin bushings wear out, you induce more camber. So check your king pins & bushings occasionally for wear.
See he says 5 max 2to 3 in some cases?
"The Bat" out of hell
Member
Caster with a strait axle is all about feel and handling,there is really a lot of factors that make some things work or not.
5* to 7* is ball park,but here's just some factors;
Load on the front.
Rim off set.
Tire size.
Steering play.
Balance.
Shocks.
Tow.
Steering box.
Pitman arm (long or short).
Spindle arm(long or short vs size of pitman).
Steering wheel size.
Any way,these things and some others make rods def. so takes some fooling with on some to get the rite feel going for ya.
For the most part ,more caster [like 7*]will bring steering back to center better,but also adds to how much harder it is to turn[stiffer feel].
And 5* is EZ to steer,but will not find center as well.
5* to 7* is ball park,but here's just some factors;
Load on the front.
Rim off set.
Tire size.
Steering play.
Balance.
Shocks.
Tow.
Steering box.
Pitman arm (long or short).
Spindle arm(long or short vs size of pitman).
Steering wheel size.
Any way,these things and some others make rods def. so takes some fooling with on some to get the rite feel going for ya.
For the most part ,more caster [like 7*]will bring steering back to center better,but also adds to how much harder it is to turn[stiffer feel].
And 5* is EZ to steer,but will not find center as well.
Along with what "Bat" said, consider what kind of use your T will have. If you plan on doing a lot of touring, then the high end is what you want. That will cut down the fatigue factor considerably. If you are going to be driving around town mostly, then go for the low end. 5 degrees is a good compromise between the two.
Ron
Ron
Rick said:
I'll take old math over new math any day of the week
all-world1
Member
This thread provides some really good info. For me, I'm at a point where I'm locating my frame radius rod mounts, by threading the clevises and heims halfway into the radius rods.
Now should I leave my axle bosses at 90 degrees to the floor for this process or should I rotate the axle to introduce a 6 degree negative caster into the axle bosses in order to find the location of the hairpin frame mounts?
If the axle bosses are 90 degrees to the floor, can 6 degrees be attained all with clevis adjustments later?
It would be great to know the best way to go before I weld those brackets to the frame.
Now should I leave my axle bosses at 90 degrees to the floor for this process or should I rotate the axle to introduce a 6 degree negative caster into the axle bosses in order to find the location of the hairpin frame mounts?
If the axle bosses are 90 degrees to the floor, can 6 degrees be attained all with clevis adjustments later?
It would be great to know the best way to go before I weld those brackets to the frame.
Francis Blake
Active Member
Satori speedway carries a caster adjustment guage online called the economy model for 31.99 their delux is 119.99. I cant find it in thier catalog but it is online. Francis
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Yes.all-world1 said:
all-world1 said:
I would guess no. Only a few degrees adjustment total in the clevises.
You want no less than twice the diameter of the clevis shank engaged (aircraft standard) in the hairpin at final adjustment. I would set the caster where you want it with the axle before setting the clevises.
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