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Front panhard bar

Sorry for the pic not posting. Here it is.
DSCN1421.jpg
 
Wayne, I will say this, those shocks will work their butts off in that position... good if you need that much shock. I like to hide them a bit and farther back if possable, as the T's are not needing too much shocking in the front, usually, if your tire balance and such are correct... NOTE: I would say lookin at the shackles, as to how far down they are pointed already, they should be more straight out from the spring, as you do not have all your weight on board yet, that is about how they should look when finished. Just a thought to think about, may have to shorten the spring or the hangers now... Good luck with your project :)
 
Ok. I'll keep an eye on the shackles. I believe that when I had my body and seat on it sat about the same. The frame is long and my motor sit way back along with the body. I guess if it seems to change I'll get a shorter spring. Do you think I'll need a panard bar?
 
HAceT said:
Ok. I'll keep an eye on the shackles. I believe that when I had my body and seat on it sat about the same. The frame is long and my motor sit way back along with the body. I guess if it seems to change I'll get a shorter spring. Do you think I'll need a panard bar?
No I don't think you will need a panhard bar, but, your tie rod is getting mighty close to your front spring perch, you better check that out, get a couple of guys and bounce on your frame to see if the rod hits the bottom of the perch. if it does, you can run you tie rod to steering arms bolted to the top of your spindles, lots of clearance that way, ususlly lets you turn sharper without hitting your axle also. Just a thought. :)
 
Yeah I done that and the pic does no justice. It has more room than it looks. Thanks for the concern though. And again thank you for answering the panard bar question. I wasn't sure if it was needed or not so I was about to make one.
 
HAceT said:
Yeah I done that and the pic does no justice. It has more room than it looks. Thanks for the concern though. And again thank you for answering the panard bar question. I wasn't sure if it was needed or not so I was about to make one.
Wayne, if you ever do make a panhard bar, try and make it as looooong as possable, or if you do not have room to use a long one, you could do a watts link, I run one of those, I have a 5/8" stud welded to the center of the back of my 3rd member housing, but I have a real low frame member that the bottom link mounts to, where no others have this.. So, just try and do as long as you have room for on a rear end, if that is where you need one..
 
I copied the spirit pandard front bar just because it makes sense to me. It makes sense if you can maintain a centerline on the front axle is a good thing. Is their a down side???? i couldnt find one.
 
Hi guys, I seem to recall seeing a pair of rods that went from the bat wings (forming a "v") to a mount w/ bushing or heim joint in the center of the front cross member that allowed the axle to be stabilized from side to side movement but also allowed the axle to move up and down. Clear as mud?
If no one is familiar with this I'll work on finding it.

John
 
rooster57 said:
I copied the spirit pandard front bar just because it makes sense to me. It makes sense if you can maintain a centerline on the front axle is a good thing. Is their a down side???? i couldnt find one.
Rooster, You asked if there is a down side to having a panard bar, yes there is, if, you have good suspension travel, as the panhard bar will pull (or push) the chassis from side to side, the shorter it is, the harsher that movement becomes. Best to use something that does not pull or push the chassis when it goes over a dip in the road. :) Happy cruzin...
 
Ted i cant see keeping the geometry correct using a pandard bar being as a problem, But you guys have been doing this stuff since moses parted the red sea. So i will graciously concede. {Because i might be wrong also is a good reason}.
 
with side steering, there's no need for a panhard bar on a car this light.

Ron
 

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