Gas Tank Sealer

[Corley]

I'm in the process of salvaging a gas tank. It's actually a Model A tank, but the process is the same for most any old tank, so I'll ask the qustion here. Anyway, I've cleaned it out, first with high pressure water, but of course that does nothing for the areas I can't reach. It has some baffles, and also the nozzle can't get at the top side. Anyway, after that, I used Muric acid to disolve the rust, and it was amazing how much crud and mud I got out of it. I put it in, sloshed it around all surfaces, waited 5 minutes, sloshed it again, etc. for half an hour. Then I drained it and started flushing it. After about 5 flushes with water, it seemed pretty clear, so I looked around inside with a mirror. I could still see some rust on the top surfaces, so I repeated the muric acid wash again, sloshing it for another 30 minutes, but this time almost no crud or mud came out. After flushing it repeatedly, I got all the water I could out, then put a quart of Acetone in, and sloshed that (it absorbs moisture), and drained that out. One more time of Acetone, then I applied warm air to dry it. That was yesterday.

It still shows some small hard rusty looking spots on the top. I'm wonderring if the tank sealer will cover those, or if I need to work on more rust removal again? I don't want to have the sealer flaking off and getting into the fuel system... Those spots are very small, about the size of a pencil lead, but there are quite a few of them. The bottom looks good. Anyone with experience with this?

(Now, before someone jumps on me for using a hazardous acid material for cleaning, let me say: Muric acid is dumped into swimming pools to correct PH balance. Muric acid is dumped on concrete by the gallons to brighten it, and also to remove a layer of fresh concrete if an exposed agregate job sets up a little too quickly. Once it's done it's job, they simply hose it off. It is easily nautralized with baking soda, and is considerred harmless if diluted with enough water. It is mixed with concrete stains, and when I stained the floors of my new house, I used 4 gallons of it that was simiply flushed away with water, vacumed up, and dumped. Didn't even kill the grass. With all the rain we have, it is highly dilluted further before reaching any stream beds. It's really not all that bad... You just don't want to get it on your clothes or body...)

Corley

 

[Rick]

I'm in the process of salvaging a gas tank. It's actually a Model A tank, but the process is the same for most any old tank, so I'll ask the qustion here. Anyway, I've cleaned it out, first with high pressure water, but of course that does nothing for the areas I can't reach. It has some baffles, and also the nozzle can't get at the top side. Anyway, after that, I used Muric acid to disolve the rust, and it was amazing how much crud and mud I got out of it. I put it in, sloshed it around all surfaces, waited 5 minutes, sloshed it again, etc. for half an hour. Then I drained it and started flushing it. After about 5 flushes with water, it seemed pretty clear, so I looked around inside with a mirror. I could still see some rust on the top surfaces, so I repeated the muric acid wash again, sloshing it for another 30 minutes, but this time almost no crud or mud came out. After flushing it repeatedly, I got all the water I could out, then put a quart of Acetone in, and sloshed that (it absorbs moisture), and drained that out. One more time of Acetone, then I applied warm air to dry it. That was yesterday.

It still shows some small hard rusty looking spots on the top. I'm wonderring if the tank sealer will cover those, or if I need to work on more rust removal again? I don't want to have the sealer flaking off and getting into the fuel system... Those spots are very small, about the size of a pencil lead, but there are quite a few of them. The bottom looks good. Anyone with experience with this?

(Now, before someone jumps on me for using a hazardous acid material for cleaning, let me say: Muric acid is dumped into swimming pools to correct PH balance. Muric acid is dumped on concrete by the gallons to brighten it, and also to remove a layer of fresh concrete if an exposed agregate job sets up a little too quickly. Once it's done it's job, they simply hose it off. It is easily nautralized with baking soda, and is considerred harmless if diluted with enough water. It is mixed with concrete stains, and when I stained the floors of my new house, I used 4 gallons of it that was simiply flushed away with water, vacumed up, and dumped. Didn't even kill the grass. With all the rain we have, it is highly dilluted further before reaching any stream beds. It's really not all that bad... You just don't want to get it on your clothes or body...)

Corley

Put your ear plugs in and put some marbles in the tank and slosh them around awhile and see what you get.

 

[Don'tCallMeJimmie]

(Now, before someone jumps on me for using a hazardous acid material for cleaning, let me say... (You just don't want to get it on your clothes or body...)

Corley,

What about the tetraethyl lead from the fuel you poured out by freeing all that sludge and varnish with the muriatic acid? Way toxic, and you don't want to get that on your skin or clothes either. Nor the water table, or soil you plan to plant food in, or your pets or, or, or...

:soapbox:

It's not always as simple as it seems.

Not yelling at you, but the soapbox emoticon seemed appropriate since I'm the one standing up there...

 

[Northstar T]

Rather than marbles, I use a large handfull of nuts and bolts. lots of nice edges to knock the crud loose.
As to a sealer, there are several on the market, but the only one I've personally used is called Kreem. never had a problem with it coming loose once properly applied, but if a tank isn't too bad I prefer to not install any sealer at all, just in case. just use a good fuel filter and change it after the first tank or two of fuel.
So I assume you're using this model a tank in a model a?? if so.... I'm currently fighting a problem with my 31 that I just put a stock aluminum 215 Buick in. I'm using the stock cowl tank also, and having hot restart issues due to the tank gravity feeding (weep) past the carb needles and making it hard to restart when hot. I'll be installing a fuel shutoff solinoid from Snider's, wired to open with "key on", to avoid the problem.

Russ

 

[Corley]

I'll be installing a fuel shutoff solinoid from Snider's, wired to open with "key on", to avoid the problem.

Russ

Ah Russ, you are too lazy to turn the fuel shut off valve? Geez! (Make sure the new valve is 12v!) I'm doing the 215 Aluminum Olds in my T bucket... Stock Model A engine for now in the '29 Pickup. May go to a Chev 4.3/PG in the future.

And, Jimmie said,

"What about the tetraethyl lead from the fuel you poured out by freeing all that sludge and varnish with the muriatic acid?"

Jimmie, the tank sat with no cap on it for years in a field, full of water. I dumped no fuel, and most of the damage was done before I ever got it. You know, when I was a kid our favorite cleaning solvent was gasoline... Dump a gallon of it in an old hubcap, and dump your parts in. Then stick your hands in and wash away. It never really seemed to affect me, affect me, affect me,, DA DO da...

Corley

 

[Rick]

Rather than marbles, I use a large handfull of nuts and bolts. lots of nice edges to knock the crud loose.
As to a sealer, there are several on the market, but the only one I've personally used is called Kreem. never had a problem with it coming loose once properly applied, but if a tank isn't too bad I prefer to not install any sealer at all, just in case. just use a good fuel filter and change it after the first tank or two of fuel.
So I assume you're using this model a tank in a model a?? if so.... I'm currently fighting a problem with my 31 that I just put a stock aluminum 215 Buick in. I'm using the stock cowl tank also, and having hot restart issues due to the tank gravity feeding (weep) past the carb needles and making it hard to restart when hot. I'll be installing a fuel shutoff solinoid from Snider's, wired to open with "key on", to avoid the problem.

Russ

10-4 on the nuts and bolts thats a better idea.

 

[VegasBruce]

10-4 on the nuts and bolts thats a better idea.

I've used roofing nail with great success.

 

[Northstar T]

Ah Russ, you are too lazy to turn the fuel shut off valve? Geez! (Make sure the new valve is 12v!) I'm doing the 215 Aluminum Olds in my T bucket... Stock Model A engine for now in the '29 Pickup. May go to a Chev 4.3/PG in the future.

Lazy??? ya... I guess I am . if the valve were inside the cab it wouldn't be so bad I guess, but I refuse to go around and open the hood to twist the vaqlve every time I pop into the grocery store for a refill.

You'll like the little Olds. it's a sweet motor for just cruising around. I have a spare set of Buick heads if you know anyone who needs a set BTW.

4.3L??? don't do it!! the sound they make sucks unless you muffle them down to factory levels. I've built two of them and regreted it each time (slow learner) the second one put out ~300 hp, but that sound just wasn't "right", if you know what I mean.

Cheers,
Russ

 

[Ted Brown]

Russ, I am with you about the sound on some 4 bangers, they really need super mufflers, maybe two in line... and I like your idea of the solenoid to close that fuel line... Only on with the Ing. hot.

 

[Corley]

Russ,

That shutoff is supposed to be mounted right under the tank on the pass side, and since the tank is the cowl, it's very easy to reach from the drivers seat. However, I like your solenoid fix much better. Just makes good sense. I also have a 2.8 60 degree V-6 available, they sound pretty good, but are a little low on the go... I've used the 215 aluminum V-8s in a couple of other rigs, (sand rail and Baja bug), and love that little engine. They turn the revs easy, and make good power. The stock auto trans sort of sucks though... Thought I might give the Olds slim jim a go just to see how it works in a really light car anyway. Can always dump it if it is just too much junk.

Corley

 

[Northstar T]

Russ, I am with you about the sound on some 4 bangers, they really need super mufflers, maybe two in line... and I like your idea of the solenoid to close that fuel line... Only on with the Ing. hot.

Sorry Ted. I guess they hadn't invented the V-6 when you were still building cars (did they have OHV back then?) :jester:

Russ