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Getting it driveable

23tub

Member
I'm going through my tub trying to get it drivable. It's an older build and whoever worked on it last doesn't seem to have been too concerned about drivability. Anyway, I’m working my way to the back of the car and have started looking at the spring/shock situation. I like the old school look of the car and don’t have a welder, so I’m just trying to get what is already there done properly. 1 to 2 inches lower than present looks to be doable as far as tire clearance, etc is concerned.
The springs in the car don’t fit into the upper pockets because the upper ends are smaller ID than the bottom (as installed). Obviously, I need new springs but I have no idea what rate or length to use. It looks to me like coil over springs would work. Pocket ID is 4” and ID looks to be around 2 ½”. With weight on the wheels, the distance from the bottom spring perch to the seat of the top pocket is about 12” as best as I can determine. Looking at springs and shocks on Summit’s website, I see many different sizes. Questions:
1. How do I determine what length springs I should buy (gotta be chrome)? I’ve been looking at QA1, 12-110 or similar.
2. What spring rate? Do I need to find someone with a set of scales to determine how much weight is on each wheel? As it is now, it rides like a buckboard.
3. What extended/compressed length shocks? Should the extended length be just short of the spring length? Need eyelets on both ends. Was looking at Pro Shocks SM300.





Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
Here are some photos:

th_rearendcroppedcopy.jpg
th_rearspringpocket.jpg
th_leftrearspringandshock.jpg
 
Are the shock mounts sturdy enough to handle coilovers? What is the length of them unloaded? The angle is good now. Hopefully you can swap coilovers in and get rid of the coils and pockets altogether. Check with RPM on the parts. He'll be able to walk you through ordering. If the mounts look weak, look for a local welder to help out. It could save you a lot of grief and frustration.

Ron
 
Hi, Ron.

I don't know if these are beefy enough for coil-overs.

th_shocklower.jpg
th_shocktop.jpg


The length of the installed springs is irrelevant as they don't fit into the existing mounts properly anyway. Or are you talking about the shocks?

I've never used coil-overs. Is there some magic in them? I'm just looking for a decent street ride without investing a pile of money.

Thanks!

Ed

Are the shock mounts sturdy enough to handle coilovers? What is the length of them unloaded? The angle is good now. Hopefully you can swap coilovers in and get rid of the coils and pockets altogether. Check with RPM on the parts. He'll be able to walk you through ordering. If the mounts look weak, look for a local welder to help out. It could save you a lot of grief and frustration.

Ron
 
I was refering to the shocks. What is the length of the shock now? If you like the way the car sits now, that's the length of the coilover you want to find. Also remember , changing one thing can and very often means something else is going to need attention. The mount you showin the pic is NOT strong enough for a coilover, in my opinion.

Getting rid of the springs and pockets would be my goal if it where my car. They are going to be a real problem as long as you have them on your car, You will experience a "hard"ride. In the end you will have to update to a coilover. Cut your losses and go for it now.

Being a tub, with the ablity to carry 4 people, I would add a lower mount with more than one adjustment hole or limit those riding in back to a total weight of 200pounds.

Ron
 
PS; A bump stop of some sort will be a great addition.
 
RPM has great looking chrome coilover shocks for a even better price! i just got mine in last week and i could not be happier ...i have pix of them on my photo gallery called THE IGOR . on page 3 i think . Coilovers are the way to go!
 

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