Getting Started on Body Prep
- Thread starter Joe Speno
- Start date
Wild Mango
Member
Before you sand you need to de wax the gelcoat. There is a layer of wax on the gelcoat to stop it sticking to the mould.Take it outside and give it a good wipe with a gas soaked rag. Be careful of fire.
You need to dry sand the gelcoat because the polyester layup tends to absorb water. Wear a dust mask, the dust is not good to breathe. Give the body a gentle rub down all over to take the gloss off with 400grit, yes, it will clog - welcome to fibreglass. Shoot on a coat of primer and top it with a guide coat. Fill any imperfections with a good quality bog. Block sand the bog in areas where you don't want it proud. Spot prime the bog and if you need to, touch up the guide coat. Give it another rub with a semi flex block and 600 to remove the guide coat. Put a clean cotton glove on your master hand and commence to caress the (car) body all over, feeling for bumps and hollows. It might be better if your neighbour didn't see you doing this, especially if you tend to intone "ohhhh yesssss". Fill if indicated. Wipe down with a solvent rag to get rid of any wax leaching out of the layup and shoot on your choice of finish coat(s).
Great Preparation = Great Finish.
Personally, I would never clean anything with gas..... TFD that's.... ah, Too ..... ah, Dangerous.
There is a wax and grease remover available at body shop and fiberglass supply compamies.
For me, it would be about an eighty mile round trip to Denver to get some, but better than as accident with gas.
OK, I admit it, back in the 60's..... Yes Paris, that's 1960's, we have a fuel dragster and more than once used gas for parts cleaner at the track. But that wasn't us in Bakersfield rebuilding the motor in the motel room bathroom using gas to clean up a little crank-through-pan mishap.
There is a wax and grease remover available at body shop and fiberglass supply compamies.
For me, it would be about an eighty mile round trip to Denver to get some, but better than as accident with gas.
OK, I admit it, back in the 60's..... Yes Paris, that's 1960's, we have a fuel dragster and more than once used gas for parts cleaner at the track. But that wasn't us in Bakersfield rebuilding the motor in the motel room bathroom using gas to clean up a little crank-through-pan mishap.
ruggs
Member
No gas.........use the wax and grease remover after a good scrub with dish soap, then you can start the sanding process. I'm a 40 year veteran of the paint and body trade so I'm not talking out my a**. This would be a good time to befriend a bodyman or painter local to you...........ruggs
Wild Mango
Member
Good safety comments. Safety first every time.
Here in NZ the best de waxer by far is 98 No Lead pump gas, which is what us boat builders use. No over the shelf product here comes close except perhaps MEK and that is real bad stuff to slop round.
You stateside guys obviously have an OTS dewaxer available, and good advice to use it.
ruggs
Member
That would depend on how much beer you bring
This was $600.00 plus material........ruggs
That would depend on how much beer you bring
This was $600.00 plus material........ruggs
Very nice paint job, especially with all the detail. I'd also say you got a very good price.
Jeff
Quality of work is inversely proportional to the quantity of beer.
ruggs
Member
409t...........I'm the beer drinker. the owner got the bargain....ruggs
I like it!!
tmaxxman21
New Member
my paint guy who paints our bikes, just told me $2-3000. for just a base coat and clear coat. i said F that ill paint it myself. no experience in painting so will see how it comes out.
ruggs
Member
If this is an active commercial shop that is used to dealing with insurance companies then thats not to far out of line. Quality paint has skyrocketed. If this quote came from Bubba's barnyard paint and body then its way out of line. Nowdays even the bad painters think they deserve the big bucks. I quit doing commercial work a few years ago in trade for a position with retirement, insurance and benefits, something that I couldn't afford in my own shop. Thats why I can do it for less and know that I'm doing quaility work. Greed is also a factor, some people feel that they have you by the b*lls since you don't know how tho do it. Wish I were closer to bucketteers, I'd offer my services.........check around, someone will help out............ruggs
Ted Brown
Member
I always use enamel reducer first to wash bodies before any sanding, then a very hard scrubbing, using something like Tide or other good soap... as far as a new gel coat body sanding, I start with about a #60 open coat paper dry, as it (primer) needs something good to hang on to, but who knows? maybe now days things are done differently, but I did this for years and it works good for me, as that is how my body maker told me to do it... Good luck and take your time... have fun no matter
Gas has oil in it...
Gas has oil in it...Similar threads
