Well, I thought you would've had some help by now! hahaha....guess all the guys are busy. I'm a motor building Guru....not a brake specialist. I'll have my brake guy come in an write at ya after he gets his Job finished he's on, that'll be later this afternoon, he just started on a race car.
But, for now, to me, sounds like you have all the air out, just no mechanical advantage.
The piston in the MC and the pistons in the wheel cylinders are either off, ie, not matched right. OR, you don't have enough leverage at the pedal.
IF, and this is me talking, with a light car, with a strong motor, and if you want to run the spools up front, MY PERSONAL RECOMENDATION is to run disc's on the rear. Alot more stopping power.
Since you don't have brakes on the front....I think we need to look at this from a safety standpoint. But, if your not running a rear to where you can go to the salvage yard to get stuff and switch it over....I know its a expensive proposition. But it just might save your life....fooling with bad brakes is dumb....its not worth loosing your life over!
So, there are all kinds of kits out there, from mild to wild! Watch out for some of the Hurst/AirHeart....thats go-kart stuff. Go online and search by what rearend is in your T. You might be lucky, and theres a car that'll switch over. You never know....
But, just in case you want to stay with drum brakes, we need info....
Look at the brake cylinder and see if there are any #'s cast onto the body, like 1/2, 3/4, 1 1/8's....something like that.
Secondly, we need to see how long your foot pedal is above the pivot. And then also measure the pivot point to MC actuator arm...the length there.
Third, we need to know what your Wheel cylinder bore's are....what the piston size is.
What I'm thinking, you might have to swap out your master cylinder for something that has a smaller bore.
http://members.tripod.com/~Mojo_Page/chry875.htm