All thats needed now is a few hundred miles of cruisin! Be dam sure to change out your oil and filter after a short while. I usually do it after a few hours after startup to get all the virgin crap out of the oiling system. Then again at about 2 weeks of everyday driving. Some folks probably won't agree with this, but even though its a new motor, parts are seating in to one another, and its actually shedding microscopic particles of metal.
Now, after a few days of running, those wear-in giblets get all loose and flushed into the pan. Since you have a roller cam, your oil will be free of alot of this, but, theres still gonna be crap in there, so change it.
On your paperwork they probably tell you after your drive it X miles below a certain rpm, then at X you can go over that and at 250 miles or 500 miles have your oil/filter changed.
Do it a few hours after initial startup, then at 250 miles, then at every 5000 miles.
I have noticed after years and years of building these things, we throw away good money on perfectly good oils, by changing it at 2500 miles. If your oil has started to get black, by all means change it. But at 2500 miles, if your oil still looks clean, it is.
BG has a microscopic service where you take a look at the oil under a microscope, looking for metals and impurities. You can often head off a bearing failure or a head gasket leak with these tests.
Does everybody need them? NO. If you get a few thousand miles on your motor, you could look into it and will tell you all is well. Not everyone can drop $4000+ for a new performance long block. And avoiding problems with a investment of a oil test is small.
Remember, these parts today are not of the same stuff that was back when I first started building motors. Tolerances can fluctuate, oils has less zddp in them, fuel has lower octane, all the usual stuff.
Yes, If you change your filter and oil after a runin, then at 250 miles, your are just flushing all the loose mess out. If you can afford it, protect your motor with something like Mystic Synth blend 20w 50. Its a little heavier than the 10w30 that they call for, but you will get alot more protection. Or, if your agianst that, wait till your motors oil pressure falls to about 40-38 psi hot, then switch. Thats means that main clearences have opened up.
I've done alot of research on oils, and yes, performance oils now for max. horses, 00w30. Thats great for racing. Low oilpump drag, 0 drag 2 the bearings, fast oil return, puts the heat into the oil to keep the motor cool on those 10.5 class runs....
Not for the street.
Your motors lifeblood is a thin film of oil between that main bearing and that crankshaft. When a motor is shut down, and that oil pressure bleeds off on the crank journals, that crank is sitting, YES MY FRIENDS, it sitting directly on that bearing surface.
Now, when that motor lights, its a few seconds of where your just depending on you oils 'film strength' to get you by until the oil pressure gets to the mains. 80% of all your wear is done during startup. Thats whey the folks that have over $15,ooo in a motor have accu-sumps or pressurized oiling at startups.
Be the best, old school lowtech way of making that hi-perf. motor live without a lot of undue wear is going with a good oil.
A synth blend 20w50, or a full synthetic is good. If you just wanna do things right. run a 20w50 racing oil. It still has the zddp in it, anti wear agents, hi-film strength, and hi-load capabilities.
Yes, its more expensive than Quacker-States 10w30 thats 99 cents a can, that'll burn and turn to sludge after a few thousand miles. ( just kidding, but we have all seen that black flakey coating up in those valvecovers before from the baked oil) The racing oil is cheaper than the Synthetic, which is superior in protection and oil life than the others.
But just think. Wouldn't you like that motor to stick around for a few years? The std. oils now are made for the newer cars. Wanna protect your motor, go with a racing oil at the least. More money, but more protection, A snyth blend is the next step up. Or the best antiwear, go with a full synth. If its hot were you are or your motor gets to 200 and likes to stay there, go with a 20w50. everywhere else, a 15w40. Noticed that they don't use alot of 10w40s anymore? Because its almost the same as a 10w30. That bottom number is what the motor see's when she's trying to start cold.
Take care of those motors out there friends....
