How do I achieve the perfect raked stance?
- Thread starter kev23t
- Start date
putz
Member
The rake is dependent on alot of items tire size, axle drop, frame z these are the things that are involved . If you are looking at a 6 inch drop axle and narrow spoke front tires this bucket cloud be a bad combo for oil pans if you want a low motor also. All these are factors in your design.JMO
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
I have a Spirit chassis. With a four-inch drop axle the Spirit frame sits almost level... maybe a one or two degree rake. I actually had Spirit raise the front spring perch from the bottom of the front crossmember to the top, which gained me about 2-1/2" more rake. I also went with a reverse-eye spring, which got another 1" or so. I have 3-1/2" of oil pan clearance, which is a little scary. I run a Slamguard oil pan and it has done it's job on several occasions when I wasn't paying attention.
Here's what my rake looks like...
I would say that you could get pretty close to the rake I have with a 6" drop axle and a reverse eye spring.
Here's what my rake looks like...
I would say that you could get pretty close to the rake I have with a 6" drop axle and a reverse eye spring.
Ted Brown
Member
Just make sure you mount the engine higher in the frame, you do not really need a 6" drop, but I would suggest a 54" wide axle, boss to boss, which ever you choose...
Francis Blake
Active Member
I was hoping someone would start a conversation about this. I am trying to build a 27 roadster and have what I think is to much rake the frame at the front is 14 in off the floor the rear is 19in the engine has 7in clearance under the pan. I would like to bring the rear down some but when I do there is very little room for a gas tank. at this angle would this car drive ok as long as the caster and tow angle is right?
EX JUNK
Moderator
When you say "boss to boss" are you referring to the mounting surface for the wheels? Is it better to have more or less than 54"? My king pin centers are 48 1/2" apart and my wheel mounting surfaces are 58" apart. With 155/80x15" tires I have a tread width of 59 1/2". Having proper Akerman, the inside wheel turns to 135 degrees and clears the four bar by 3 1/4". The four bars are centered at 33" apart on the axle. I could go a little more than the 135 degrees but that is where I have set the stop. With my 108" wheelbase, I feel that I have a very good turning radius.Just make sure you mount the engine higher in the frame, you do not really need a 6" drop, but I would suggest a 54" wide axle, boss to boss, which ever you choose...
Jim
Ted Brown
Member
Boss to boss means king pin boss centers... This way you can run a nice long spring, mine is 48" long, makes for a great ride, plus this extra width gives the tires plenty of room to turn sharply for a tight turning radius without hitting the radius rods... Axle drop is not that important to sitting low in front as long as the spring mounts are not built yet, you can raise the front perch on the cross member up to whatever height you like, as this will lower the frame down, same with spring perches on the axle, lower them to go lower, just keep everything up above scrub height, at least... A ride that is too low, is a real pain to drive...
estesken
Member
KEV23T
Just a note: From a guy trying to build his first bucket. Worry about distance between the bend of your drop axle. Know what distant you want between wings and your target spring length. Radius rod clearance issues between Frame, brake lines, shocks mounts and lights stands could cause you losted time aggregation and money.
Just a note: From a guy trying to build his first bucket. Worry about distance between the bend of your drop axle. Know what distant you want between wings and your target spring length. Radius rod clearance issues between Frame, brake lines, shocks mounts and lights stands could cause you losted time aggregation and money.
Hot Rod Todd
Member
Welcome to the world of building Tee Buckets.
Theres nearly as many ways to go about it, as there are buckets out there, but from my mistakes I can recommend the following (I have started 8 buckets over 30 odd years & most were failures):
And so back to your plans.
You have a stance/rake in mind. So lay out the frame in your garage using axle stands and blocks of wood. You need to know the rim & tyre sizes you are planning to use. If you dont have the wheels yet, then either borrow some, or make some the size you want from ply. Its only to mock up so dont worry about the ply. Try going to www.whitewallcandystore.com as they have lots of details on tyre heights that will help you.
hopefully you also have your Tee body at your place. You need to sit it up on the frame and then stare at it for ages and adjust the exle stands till you get the rake where you want it to be.
Then assuming you have an engine, you need to figure how high it needs to sit in your frame. Oil pan bashing isnt a cool thing to do. So set your engine up in the frame using an engine crane and check for clearance underneath.
If the chassis is super low, then the engine will probably need to sit high to avoid pan bashing. With a high engine in a low chassis you will have less footroom, because the trans will sit higher relative to the floor.
Then stop for a beverage of your choice and stare at your creation for at least 30 minutes. And decide if thats what you really want.
Once you have that pretty much sorted, you can look at the front end and decide what level of drop you need in your axle. It may be that a lesser drop will work if the spring perch is mounted higher on the chassis, or iy you mount the spring atop of the perch.
Anyway thats just for starters. good luck with your project
Theres nearly as many ways to go about it, as there are buckets out there, but from my mistakes I can recommend the following (I have started 8 buckets over 30 odd years & most were failures):
- Begin with the end in mind.
- Plan to do everything only once
- Figure your theme and stick to it
And so back to your plans.
You have a stance/rake in mind. So lay out the frame in your garage using axle stands and blocks of wood. You need to know the rim & tyre sizes you are planning to use. If you dont have the wheels yet, then either borrow some, or make some the size you want from ply. Its only to mock up so dont worry about the ply. Try going to www.whitewallcandystore.com as they have lots of details on tyre heights that will help you.
hopefully you also have your Tee body at your place. You need to sit it up on the frame and then stare at it for ages and adjust the exle stands till you get the rake where you want it to be.
Then assuming you have an engine, you need to figure how high it needs to sit in your frame. Oil pan bashing isnt a cool thing to do. So set your engine up in the frame using an engine crane and check for clearance underneath.
If the chassis is super low, then the engine will probably need to sit high to avoid pan bashing. With a high engine in a low chassis you will have less footroom, because the trans will sit higher relative to the floor.
Then stop for a beverage of your choice and stare at your creation for at least 30 minutes. And decide if thats what you really want.
Once you have that pretty much sorted, you can look at the front end and decide what level of drop you need in your axle. It may be that a lesser drop will work if the spring perch is mounted higher on the chassis, or iy you mount the spring atop of the perch.
Anyway thats just for starters. good luck with your project
Ted Brown
Member
One small but huge factor, when trying to set things to best fit your liking, you really need to see the whole car from the side, and at a distance of about 25 - 35 feet away.. this will show you what the needs to be put where... A ride totally built inside a small garage or shop and never taken outside during construction will look great up close, but will be lacking from a distance, and that is where a lot of people go wrong, and don't know why their car does not sit just right and many of the angles/lines are wrong... These are all easy to spot from a distance...
EX JUNK
Moderator
One small but huge factor, when trying to set things to best fit your liking, you really need to see the whole car from the side, and at a distance of about 25 - 35 feet away.. this will show you what the needs to be put where... A ride totally built inside a small garage or shop and never taken outside during construction will look great up close, but will be lacking from a distance, and that is where a lot of people go wrong, and don't know why their car does not sit just right and many of the angles/lines are wrong... These are all easy to spot from a distance...
This is VERY important, you must look at it from a distance and see how it "profiles".
Jim
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