How low can you go

[baddawgcustoms]

One of the first goals for my build was to get the car as low as possible. Nothing on the car will be below the frame rails. As the car sits now I have 5" ground to frame up front and 7" in the back. I'm toying with the idea of going down one more inch to 4 and 6. At 4" and 6" my wheels with no tires will barely touch the ground before the frame so my scub line is fine even that low. I remember exjunk saying his oil pan was only about 3 1/2" from the ground and has never had an issue. (Wheel base is about 112 with the stretch body). Since everything is above the frame rails, I don't think it would be a problem. Both front and rear suspension. Is adjustable in height, so it would be fairly easy to pick it back up a couple inches if I needed to do so, and would not have to do much but adjust pinion angle on the 4 link, caster in the front, and the front of the 4 link which will also have adjustment for height. Just curious as to your opinions.

 

[Chief]

Hi Dale,

I'm also close to 3 " with my tranny & oil pan. I 'll slide under and get true measurement tonight. I don't do speed bumps, and take some driveway entrances at angle, but it's not a major problem. I also can't go into an oil change pit.....lips are too high. Been thinking about adding a 1/2" spacer on the spring nest to bring it up just a bit.

 

[baddawgcustoms]

Hi Dale,

I'm also close to 3 " with my tranny & oil pan. I 'll slide under and get true measurement tonight. I don't do speed bumps, and take some driveway entrances at angle, but it's not a major problem. I also can't go into an oil change pit.....lips are too high. Been thinking about adding a 1/2" spacer on the spring nest to bring it up just a bit.

Thanks Chief. I figure if I get the frame low enough, the driveshaft tunnel can just double as an armrest. Absolutely beautiful T you have there by the way. Awesome piece of craftsmanship. Those guys really know their stuff!

 

[Keeper]

I was right at 3 inches as well. Have a few scrapes on the trans cover. When I replaced the front main spring I added a "leaf" as a spacer (its only 6 inches long) to pick it up 1/2 inch and the new slightly taller tires have moved me to 3 1/2 inches at the trans pan. So far no scrapes this year.

 

[BOB S]

I just checked mine at the lowest point which is the oil pan I am 3 inches from the ground.
I have to go over speed bumps on an angle otherwise the oil pan will drag and I have done so honestly I'm going to raise my own up a little bit it is just a pain to go sideways on speed bumps. Make it yours and enjoy your ride

bob

 

[Chief]

Thanks for the kind words. I measured mine last night and it's 3 1/2" from the oil pan. I too have sanded the louvers on the pan a few times . Let me know how that armrest thing works out .

Good Luck

 

[baddawgcustoms]

Thanks for the input. If y'all are running that low at the pan I don't see that I would have any problems going down to 4" and 6", so I dropped it down last night to get some measurements. Where the oil pan is the frame will be 4 3/4", about 5" at the trans pan, both tucked up above the bottom of the frame, so I should have no issues with clearance. I only have 2" clearance under the radiator, so I will probably have to swap to a mustang radiator so as to NOT have to raise it higher than the cowl. (T bucket 3 row aluminum radiator for sale soon). Thanks for the digits.

 

[old round fart]

Remember the radiator is right at the wheels so they go up at the same time. Just watch out for man holes!

 

[baddawgcustoms]

Remember the radiator is right at the wheels so they go up at the same time. Just watch out for man holes!

About my only worries would be the speed bumps. The back of my front tires are about even with the back of the radiator so it looks like as the tires rolled over it the radiator would just about come down right on it. I looked at speedway and their $229 t radiator is 1 1/2 inches shorter than mine, and I had been considering using it just because I like the look of the wings and motor-meter on the filler neck like in my avatar. My son and I are also building a 40 ford truck "rat style" for him (but safe and built correctly), so I'm sure I can use my current radiator in it.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Since I redid the front of mine since it got crunched by that truck, I redid my front to 1/4 Ellips., I lowered my frontend a little.
I got 3 pieces of 1/8's SS, I attached it to the bottom on my pan with series of evenly spaced tack welds, also my trans pan. Up by my radiator, I affixed a small skidplate to keep debris from fragging the radiator going down the road....
I'm going to add some small pieces to my frame along the midpoint, I hit a speedbump, then one of my tires went into a pothole, and scraped the frame. They are going to be 2" wide x 12" long.... and I'm attaching them with 8 1/4-28 NF flathead allenhead screws on each side....

 

[Screaming Metal]

Let me clarify, on each side, along the bottom of the frame. 1/4-28NF just barely has just enough threads to get a good hold in the 3/16's walled tubing....

 

[Screaming Metal]

I forgot to add this to my last post....which you might want to think about and use....You can lower you rod in seveal diff. ways.
1. You can build a offset front spring holder
2. Offset where you springs attach at the batwings on the front axle, redrilling your shackle mounting holes....
3. You can 'Z' your frame up by the firewall.
4. The easiest is just to purchase a new drop axle....they make the them in diff. drop dimensions....
The axle is just a bolt on. All Others will require cutting and welding, except for the redrilling the holes on the batwings....