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I have an angle tangle

Popeye

Member
Ok im ready to weld up my front and rear spring perches. I m going with traditional style Model T spring setup I think yall are calling it buggy springs. My question is do I set the rake on the chassis with my jack stands than weld the perchase on parrallel to the ground or do I just keeep the frame leval and keep the perchase level with the chassis.
 
Keep the frame level. When you set-up the rear axel and hardware, just tack everything 'till it's all in place. Up front, set your frame at ride hieght and then TACK the front perch at 5 degrees up from level. I don't finish weld till the motor/trans is mocked up in the frame.

Ron
 
I assume your welding on your front and rear axels. On the front set 4* caster and have front radias rods mounted to frame then set perchs on axel. on the rear set pinion angle befor welding perches.
 
I am using a 36 ford front axle and spring and a 66 chevy van 12 bolt rear with a Model A rear spring and brakets from speed way motors.
 
I think he's asking about the rear spring if it should be perpendicular to the ground or to the rails. I build the to the rails, softer ride cause of less binding.

Ron
 
Ok guys #1 Im getting to the point to put the front perch on my frame. I seen Youngster comment on May 17 2012 to have the rearend set up and guss installed with the tires that I would be using. Did I understand that correctly? #2 The front end needs to be completly put together with wheels on in ordern to hang the perch correct? It makes sense to do it this way to get a true 5 degrees up, BUT what is the car going to do when bbc gets drop in it ? Will the 5 degrees change that much? Thanks Dino
 
Looking for what the "Correct" answer is too; mine has been modified and then redone again. The last time we had an assembled car, and set the front perch at 5*, sitting with load on all and blocked. Right or wrong, that was how we did it, now I will sit back and see how wrong we were that day.
Good point on the binding Youngster.
Greg
 

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