Jag Shocks
- Thread starter jimmyj
- Start date
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
I don't know what you consider "reasonably affordable," but I used the Carreras from Speedway, about $140 each.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Carrera-Street-Rod-Rear-Coil-overs,36586.html?parentDisplayId=1207
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Carrera-Street-Rod-Rear-Coil-overs,36586.html?parentDisplayId=1207
jimmyj
New Member
Thanks I will check that out, I buy alot from them. The right tire is leaning in 3/4", I shimed all I could so I think the coil overs are bad. The T has not been on the road since 1980.
jimmyj
New Member
Will do, do you know about the correct size of photos you can post?
Keeper
Active Member
Let me find the place I ordered mine from.
https://www.sngbarrattusa.com/index.asp
I bought the original Boge and e-type springs with new shields, $421 shipped to Ohio. This was for 4 setups.
https://www.sngbarrattusa.com/index.asp
I bought the original Boge and e-type springs with new shields, $421 shipped to Ohio. This was for 4 setups.
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
You can upload to Photobucket or Flickr, then link to the photo using the "Insert/edit image" button in the "Post Reply" window. The photo will automatically be resized to fit in the post.
jimmyj
New Member
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Jimmy, e-mail me the pix and I will post... xxxrmetcalfe@kc.rr.comxxx (remove the x's)
jimmyj
New Member
Thanks Lee for the postHere are Jimmy's pix.
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Well right off, I'd say you either have an E-type rear end or your lower control arms (LCAs) and half shafts have been shortened. Can you tell if the LCAs and half shafts have been cut and welded back together? If so, I'd say they didn't get the lengths exactly right and your geometry is messed up.
Another thought is that the Jag is designed so that at ride height the half shafts are parallel to the ground. The inner and outer pivot points of the half shafts are closer together that those of the LCAs, so they swing in a shorter arc. So if you set up the camber so that it straight up and down at ride height, the tops of the tires are going to be pulled in as the wheels moves above and below ride height. I have a diagram somewhere on my computer that illustrates this. I'll have to look for it.
Another thought is that the Jag is designed so that at ride height the half shafts are parallel to the ground. The inner and outer pivot points of the half shafts are closer together that those of the LCAs, so they swing in a shorter arc. So if you set up the camber so that it straight up and down at ride height, the tops of the tires are going to be pulled in as the wheels moves above and below ride height. I have a diagram somewhere on my computer that illustrates this. I'll have to look for it.
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Here is the back of mine. You can see my half shafts incline slightly down as the car sits. With me in it and a full tank of fuel the half shafts are dead parallel with the ground and I have just a slight bit of inward camber at the top of the tires. The camber increases to about an inch when the car is jacked up with the tires off the ground.
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Another issue I see is it looks like you have nylocks on the studs for the inboard end of the half shaft. The heat from the brake rotors is going to melt those nylocks, if they haven't already. You're supposed to use mechanically locking nuts on those studs... the kind that are necked down at the outboard end. I stripped two studs with those stupid nuts, so I switched to normal nuts with split washers. I check them for tightness before every cruise, and they have never come loose. You can see the nuts and washers in the following pic. You can also see that I had to use six .030 shims to get my camber right. I can't tell how many shims you have from your pix, but if you get rid of the nylocks, you will have another 1/8" or 3/16" of stud threads to use, and you could add a couple more shims.
SCCustomRides
Banned
Good eye Lee, also a great tip.
jimmyj
New Member
Yes it is an E-type 3.8 series 1, this has set in a barn for over 25 years, soAnother issue I see is it looks like you have nylocks on the studs for the inboard end of the half shaft. The heat from the brake rotors is going to melt those nylocks, if they haven't already. You're supposed to use mechanically locking nuts on those studs... the kind that are necked down at the outboard end. I stripped two studs with those stupid nuts, so I switched to normal nuts with split washers. I check them for tightness before every cruise, and they have never come loose. You can see the nuts and washers in the following pic. You can also see that I had to use six .030 shims to get my camber right. I can't tell how many shims you have from your pix, but if you get rid of the nylocks, you will have another 1/8" or 3/16" of stud threads to use, and you could add a couple more shims.
everything was rusted. I have it all about done, but the leaning tire was giving me a fit.
I will change the nylocks that were already on, also the right shock mount is a 1/2" longer. I have measured everything else and it all checks out.
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