Okay all you Ford transmission people!!! I have a leaking AOD. I have an AOD backing up my 351C, and it runs and drive the car just fine, great pressure, but when the car runs, and then I shut it down, I get ATF coming from the bellhousing. Research shows me it is either the pump seal, or the seal at the pump to converter connection. Is anyone familiar with fixing this problem?? Any help is appreciated!! New to AOD's. I clearly love learning... ;-)
Take serious the advise to check the dip stick tube o-ring. I have the o-ring leak now on my c-4. If the o-ring is OK the ATF will be coming from the bottom of the bell housing, from behind the inspection plate. The easiest and first to replace will be the front pump seal. The torque converter hub runs on this seal. The hub surface may need reburnished with some fine emery cloth. If it has a groove worn in it, it will be either a new converter or quick sleeve, if they make them for converters. The best I remember the front pump will be bolted in the front of the trans. I do not know if it seals with an o-ring or paper gasket. That is your next leak area. I am going to bet it will be the front seal. Good luck,
It can be very deceiving. You have to almost watch it to make sure. Wrap some white paper towels around the tube at the trans and see if it gets wet. The dipstick tube will drain to the lowest point, the bottom of the bell housing. I just do not want you to miss an easy fix.
The AOD has a vent in that area, as well as the back of the trans. First thing is to verify the fluid level(yeah I know you probably have, but this time check it in neutral, not park). And verify the rear trans vent is able to vent properly. These are inexpensive baseline checks, try these first. At first impression you might think you have a static leak at the pump which is possible, but humor an old Ford guy if you would. It ain't uncommon for the trans fluid to expand sufficiently after shut off and make a big mess. You ARE running a trans cooler, correct?
Thanks guys I will check those. Looking at the tranny right at shut down, I see it coming from inside the bellhousing, not from around or underneath it, so I am pretty sure it is something with the pump...but I will take a look. The dipstick is a Lokar unit with a nice new o-ring, and I siliconed the hell out of it too. LOL I can't even pull it out with A LOT of umph into it; then I would have to re-silicone it. LOL How can I check if the vent is venting??
Thanks guys I will check those. Looking at the tranny right at shut down, I see it coming from inside the bellhousing, not from around or underneath it, so I am pretty sure it is something with the pump...but I will take a look. The dipstick is a Lokar unit with a nice new o-ring, and I siliconed the hell out of it too. LOL I can't even pull it out with A LOT of umph into it; then I would have to re-silicone it. LOL How can I check if the vent is venting??
Put a piece of rubber tubing on the vent the vent tube and blow on it. Open air passes thru, closed can not blow thru.
The torque convertor resting on the pump seal for an extended time will cause it form an odd shape and leak. Days/weeks/months.Doubt the front pump gasket is leaking unless it has been removed for a rebuild.
Transmission is out, and after initial inspection there is no apparent location that the ATF is coming out of the front pump. I will probably pull the pump, and just replace the gaskets and seals for extra insurance. It is possible the torque converter was simply installed incorrectly last time, causing a some sort of leakage?!? I am not sure...
I did check that on both the converters I have T-Test, thanks. I am putting both in the tranny as well, and checking for too much "wobble" or play in the converter, or anything abnormal. I had a Hughe's aftermarket converter in there, I may just switch over to the stock one I have. Probably better for me on the street anyways. I don't know what the stall is on the Hughe's, but the guy I bought the tranny and converter from said it was higher than stock (of course) because he had plan to race.
Make sure the bolt holes in the flywheel are not oblonged or visibly off center. Excessive crank walk is tough on the seals also. Installation on converters is pretty straight forward, worst happening is not getting the ears engaged in the pump and ruining the internals. Need to partially fill the converter and wet the seal and hub.
OK, the converter seal, the converter snout, front pump, a converter -plug- (some converters have them), or a cracked trans housing are your only possibilities here. Sometimes, under extreme conditions, cracks will form around the torque converter ears causing leaks, but those are under racing conditions usually....
Are the pump bolts tight? Sometimes when things don't line up just so-so engageing the converter onto the front pump, if there is a nick on the converter snout, you'll nick the seal sliding it in, causing a small leak....just a small steady drip
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