For a driver, how much detail sanding on a fiberglass body is worth the effort? Except for the firewall, there is not a straight panel on the body, so many reflections will show even on the "perfect body". Those who drive em, what advice do you have so the body will look good? Thanks ID
Perfect body
- Thread starter iron duke
- Start date
Coupefreak
New Member
When I built my '34 Coupe, I had the same problem.
it is a driver, so I settled for a 10/10 paint job.
at 10 feet, and 10 MPH, it looks pretty good:lol:
int:
the uneducated general public loves it, those folks in the "business" know its a driver, and expect to see some flaws.
since it is a driver, its gonna get rock chips, bug splatters, etc.
if I was gonna build a strictly show car, I would have spent alot more time sanding, filling, etc.
just my thought process.
p.s. the only "perfedt body" I have seen.......belongs to Helen Hunt
Vance
it is a driver, so I settled for a 10/10 paint job.
at 10 feet, and 10 MPH, it looks pretty good:lol:
int:the uneducated general public loves it, those folks in the "business" know its a driver, and expect to see some flaws.
since it is a driver, its gonna get rock chips, bug splatters, etc.
if I was gonna build a strictly show car, I would have spent alot more time sanding, filling, etc.
just my thought process.
p.s. the only "perfedt body" I have seen.......belongs to Helen Hunt
Vance
Coupefreak
New Member
Youngster said:
I didn't wanna sound like a big 'ole perv........but great minds think alike
Shania Twain deserves a spot to:lol:
Vance
Coupefreak
New Member
Youngster said:
COOL!!!
only 8 more years as a "perv" then I graduate to a "cute old guy"
int::lol:Vance
Less than a year to go to not be a perv lol. And way too many good looking bodies to come up with a list. But back to the question you can work on one of these things as l0ng as you want and I don't think it will ever be perfect (I'm just about finished buffing mine) so IMO just work it until you think your done do just alittle more and get on the road.
Randall
Randall
T-Odd
Member
Sanding and nice paint and waxing and straight panels and all that???
I have no idea.
That's why I painted mine with rust. I drive it and don't care about any of that other stuff.
Throw some paint on it, heck you can dabble it with a rag and a bunch of colors and come up with something like this -
Everyone likes Parker's VW and it doesn't have perfect panels.
Camouflage!
I have no idea.
That's why I painted mine with rust. I drive it and don't care about any of that other stuff.
Throw some paint on it, heck you can dabble it with a rag and a bunch of colors and come up with something like this -
Everyone likes Parker's VW and it doesn't have perfect panels.
Camouflage!
donsrods
Member
I hate body work........it is my least favorite part of a build. A lot depends on the body you start with, be it fiberglass or steel. Obviously, the better the body the less work you will have to do to get it straight enough to be shiny.
My Speedway body took a whole lot less work to get it straight enough for black than my Son's Total Performance body took to get it straight enough for blue. To be honest, I am very disappointed in the quality of the TP body, it is too thin, and now he is getting shadowing through where the wood was bonded to the body. The car will need resanded and repainted somewhere down the road, and it has only been painted 8 months. Mine has no shadowing whatsoever, and I attribute that to the fact it is a heavier layup. I'm sure TP will say it is because of the way the wood was installed, but that would not be true because I have two Speedway bodies, a '23 and a '27, I wooded both of them, and neither one had that problem.
Color also enters into how much work you will need to do, some colors require a very straight body and some colors will minimize waviness to some degree.
Don
My Speedway body took a whole lot less work to get it straight enough for black than my Son's Total Performance body took to get it straight enough for blue. To be honest, I am very disappointed in the quality of the TP body, it is too thin, and now he is getting shadowing through where the wood was bonded to the body. The car will need resanded and repainted somewhere down the road, and it has only been painted 8 months. Mine has no shadowing whatsoever, and I attribute that to the fact it is a heavier layup. I'm sure TP will say it is because of the way the wood was installed, but that would not be true because I have two Speedway bodies, a '23 and a '27, I wooded both of them, and neither one had that problem.
Color also enters into how much work you will need to do, some colors require a very straight body and some colors will minimize waviness to some degree.
Don
Francis Blake
Active Member
Don I have been thinking about a speedway body how much trouble is involved in installing the floor?...Francis
donsrods
Member
Francis Blake said:
Francis, I did a thread on another forum on the complete build up of my T. Here is a link to where the fiberglassing started. You will have to weed through a lot of BS and talk about unrelated subjects, but the pages starting here cover what I had to do on mine. Hope it helps. Go down to post 1077, that is where it begins.
Project $ 3 K Is Underway - Page 72 - Club Hot Rod Forums
Don
Youngster said:
Boy thats good to know !!......But I think it depends on what your lookin at.......LOL
I don't plan to take too much time grinding and sanding and doin all that block sanding stuff....
After taking over 6 years to throw this wreck together, I want to drive it...
So ,my body work/paint plan is to squirt it and drive....
I know that turns the guts of some of you guys but I look at that CCR body and I really don't see a lot of work there, it's not perfect, but it's far from a mess....
Besides, spending many hours perfecting a body ,then climbing in and out and worrying bout it getting dings and watching every little sticky fingered kid that gets close to it, just isn't fun to me.....:lol:
Clean it up, paint it, drive it......."BH"
