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question for Ted

dovehunter79

New Member
Ted in another post you have said this.....

"Floors, bed and body and inside firewall very important as that is what holds your steering column.. :) "


How do you support the firewall?

Thanks
 
You need some sort of support for the column. I used a 6 foot piece of 1/2 square tubing. I made 2 plates that were the same bolt pattern as the windshield stantions. Then using a conduit bender i bent an offset in both ends that would drop down from both stantions and span the underside of the dash. Then i fit the column made a plate to fit the column drop clamped it to my tubing remover the column and drop then tac welded the plate. I think i may have a pic or 2 i will look
 
well done rooster. one thing to watch for (voice of experience) is to be sure to leave room for the back of your guages when designing the cross bar.

Ron
 
Good point Youngster its tight anyway but i had abour 3/4 inch below the speedo larger tubing might not work so well.
 
did you not put wood in your body either Rooster? That was curiosity about Ted, he said that he hasnt ever done that in his bodies so I was wondering how he set his stuff up.

Thanks
 
i'm from a different school than some of the others here i guess dovehunter, i use at least 5/8"plywood for the floors and wood stringers on the sides like the ones don has posted. maybe i'm over building but it makes me feel good to know my body isn't going to flex when someone climbs over the side. just to be fair i have to admit i've never built one with a f'glass floor or insert. seems there are too many compromises when they do that. and no i don't think the rest of the world is wrong. it just seems that way sometimes...lol

Ron
 
I use 3/4 plywood on the floors and 1/2s for the sides.
 
Youngster said:
i'm from a different school than some of the others here i guess dovehunter, i use at least 5/8"plywood for the floors and wood stringers on the sides like the ones don has posted. maybe i'm over building but it makes me feel good to know my body isn't going to flex when someone climbs over the side. just to be fair i have to admit i've never built one with a f'glass floor or insert. seems there are too many compromises when they do that. and no i don't think the rest of the world is wrong. it just seems that way sometimes...lol

Ron


The last two bodies we did had 3/4 in the floor and firewall... the spirit body has fiberglass everything... the floor has the honey comb but the firewall doesnt seem stiff enough for my likings... Its pretty dern sturdy, dont get me wrong, im not knocking it but I was curious on the no wood build part.


Since you did mention the insert... I have been thinking about if I should glass all the way around it... Meaning on the firewall too to give it more stability and mind easement. any ideas on that????
 
If you guys ever see the CCR body you will see why they are the most expensive body and why. NO wood or any type of reinforcement needed. The entire body is molded at one time and everywhere i could find the body is 1/4 to 3/8 thick. i cant believe my luck to locate a used one that had not been cut or mounted yet.
 
The outer shell of the spirit body has about 4 or 5 seam joints that need to be sanded down... its a pretty stiff booger... I can pick it up by myself and it hardly flexes...(not talking about the insert in, just the body alone)
 
I think for the money spirit makes a great body. But i needed a door and some bodys almost double in price for adding a door.
 
I didn't want to trust just a plywood insert on my firewall because I ran my steering through it and wanted to anchor the bottom flange block to it. So I glassed a shaped piece of plywood to it and then built a steel framework that is sort of like a roll bar with extensions that connect to my dash and windshield brackets. The body becomes incidental because that framework could function all on it's own to support the top and bottom of my steering column.

Here are a couple of pictures of how I did it. The bottom of each side has a flange with two holes in them so I could bolt the framework to the frame after the body was on.

Don

windshieldonrollbar.jpg


windshieldonrollbar2.jpg


bodyreadyforfloor004.jpg


almostfinalweldingdone011.jpg
 
Well Guys, I will have to dissagree with all of those that seem to think that the bodies NEED wood in the sides, in over 30 to 40 years, I have NEVER wooded inside any body, except for the floors and inside the firewall, all 5/8" or better... When doing the inside of the firewall, stand the body up on the firewall, grind any seams or junk that is present, so that it is nice and flat and clean...Lay in a thick layer of (WET) mat, place the plywood firewall backing on the wet mat, apply weights to that plywood, buckets of sand, old metal whatever you can find for weight... let dry over night, then the next day apply another layer of mat all around the edges of that plywood to seal it up real good to the body, now it is one piece, strong as all get out, great to mount your steering column to with only 3 or 4 bolts needed, no other brace of any kind needed, just check out any of my old bodies from over the years, and remember that CCR was my company, they still do it the same way...
Someone mentioned seams in/on the outside of the body, well they are there because the molds bolt together there, and that means nothing as to the strength of the body, just need to be sanded off and primed and any filler to any pin holes is now done...
Many years of many people, hundreds of people climbing in and out of my T Bucket has never hurt my body, had them scratch the paint a time or two, an easy fix.... press on any new car door and tell me just how SOLID it feels, I will take a bit of flex any day, all it is holding is paint... MY VIEW, You do as You like. :D
 
Yep I agree with Ted. We do the same thing, except we use epoxy glue to glue a 3/4" external (waterproof glued) ply liner to the inside of the firewall. Bracket her down to the frame rails and strong as you like. My boys car, I have braced the firewall back to the front roll hoop (have a cage) boys always being braver than fathers. Thick exterior grade ply like this has very good mechanical properties, rigidity and impact strength for two, and its only reluctantly inflammable.
 
Ted Brown said:
Well Guys, I will have to dissagree with all of those that seem to think that the bodies NEED wood in the sides, in over 30 to 40 years, I have NEVER wooded inside any body, except for the floors and inside the firewall, all 5/8" or better... When doing the inside of the firewall, stand the body up on the firewall, grind any seams or junk that is present, so that it is nice and flat and clean...Lay in a thick layer of (WET) mat, place the plywood firewall backing on the wet mat, apply weights to that plywood, buckets of sand, old metal whatever you can find for weight... let dry over night, then the next day apply another layer of mat all around the edges of that plywood to seal it up real good to the body, now it is one piece, strong as all get out, great to mount your steering column to with only 3 or 4 bolts needed, no other brace of any kind needed, just check out any of my old bodies from over the years, and remember that CCR was my company, they still do it the same way...
Someone mentioned seams in/on the outside of the body, well they are there because the molds bolt together there, and that means nothing as to the strength of the body, just need to be sanded off and primed and any filler to any pin holes is now done...
Many years of many people, hundreds of people climbing in and out of my T Bucket has never hurt my body, had them scratch the paint a time or two, an easy fix.... press on any new car door and tell me just how SOLID it feels, I will take a bit of flex any day, all it is holding is paint... MY VIEW, You do as You like. :D

Thanks!!! Do you have any pictures of underneath your dash?
 
I think there is at least one here, but I have a ton of pics up on my MySpace profile, plus a lot of blogg stuff on car building as far as how I like to do it... :D and my dash is only held on with two 1/4" studs & dome nuts. no bracing of any type under my dash. :)
 
Ted Brown said:
I think there is at least one here, but I have a ton of pics up on my MySpace profile, plus a lot of blogg stuff on car building as far as how I like to do it... :D and my dash is only held on with two 1/4" studs & dome nuts. no bracing of any type under my dash. :)



So then as far as the windshield posts goes, do you not run a brace across the the body to support that or when you say, " no bracing of any type under my dash", you literally mean just that?
 
dovehunter79 said:
So then as far as the windshield posts goes, do you not run a brace across the the body to support that or when you say, " no bracing of any type under my dash", you literally mean just that?
Thats what I said, NO bracing at all, if you read my thoughts about fitting any posts to any body, you will understand that when a post FITS the body, there is now no need for any other braces, and the bolts only hold them to the fit body part, no stress on the bolts at all, to speak of... :)
 
With my Total Aniversary Body The posts are molded into the body.The Body came from Total that way The body and posts are flush.
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