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Radius Rods again

T-Odd

Member
Ron, I can't use this pair either... I guess Spirit changed at some point because both front and rear are five inches from center to center of the holes in the brackets on my car.

After adding the clevises I'm more than an inch out - and since these RRs are built so tough, they won't budge.

I'll snap a few pics.
 
Super. I'll take some pics of my brackets and with a measuring tape - might help.

Also, might want to make note of the lengths because of the setup for you, since the top clevis is WAY out and the lower clevis is all the way in.

Pics are better than words.
 
Ted, it's an interesting setup, being a radius rod bracket with coil over mount all in one.

IMS7111.JPG


The pinion points down if you have equal length clevis threads in-n-out of the radius rod.

To rotate my pinion up a couple of degrees required backing out the top clevis and running the bottom all the way in. I'll get some pics and show you.
 
I think it might have something to do with the fact that I'm running 31" tall rear tires.
 
I don't think tire size has much to do with pinion angle as changing tire size moves the rear up and down verticaly it will change the transmission angel a lot.
 
Raising or lowering the rear [or frt.] will change the driveline angle in relation to the ground but not in relation to it's associated components , therefore it makes no difference [other than looks]
dave
 
Dirt-T, the Radius rods are at an angle pointing up that I have to back out the top clevis and run the bottom clevis all the way in to keep the pinion angle correct.

The bottom rod is just about level with the ground (but pointing up slightly), making the top bar at an angle. My rear end brackets have the holes perpendicular to the ground with the rear end pinion pointing down about two degrees.

To rotate it up a couple of degrees required the top hole to be a little further and the bottom is then closer. Elongated top, shortened bottom, requiring the bottom clevis to be all the way in, the top is almost all the way out.

I did get rid of the vibration issue after correcting the pinion angle.


166033_3737471233555_1245730912_n.jpg
 
If you need more adjustment on the clevis that is turned all the way in, you might try trimming the end of the tube. It's been my experience that changing one adjustment leads to other changes. IMO, The proper fix would be to cut the bracket from the housing and move it to where it needs to be.

Ron
 
Car drives PERFECT right now, one finger on the wheel at highway speed, I don't want to change a darn thing, except it would be nice to have a little more threads from the clevis into the top radius rod.

Toolman checked the alignment (this was before the new tires - but the new tires are the exact same size as the last set) and we found no problems at all.

Again, this car runs great, drives straight, and stops with no problem at all right now. I don't want to change any of the geometry.
 
Understood. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Ron
 
Todd if you will call me with exactly what you need, I will swap these out for you. I just need to know what you need. No need to weld or redrill anything. Custom stuff is what we do!
 
Yeah Ron, and that's exactly why I want your parts... I know it's going to be what I want and it's going to be built like a brick sh... well, you know.
 
If I ever stop driving this car long enough... I'll get some pics and measurements LOL
 
Ron thats the only way he is gona do the change over for sure........;)...Now the only thing is you two live apart the long way across Tenneesse............:thumbsup:....

Mike
 

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