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Sandblasted Rear End

all-world1

Member
I've got a Ford 8" rear end for my project and it was previously sandblasted with the drum brakes on. I don't know if the yolk was taped before the blasting. Am I looking for trouble? I've never worked on a rear and haven't got a clue on how to remove the axles. Any advice?

Craig
 
re: yoke being blasted. It should be fine , unless it was very very rusty to start with. If it doesn't appear to have a bunch of pitting etc , just run it .
re: axles. remove the brake drums. Normally there is an access hole in the axle flange to put a socket (9/16") through and undo 4 nuts off the T bolts that go thru the flange on the housing and backing plates and axle retainers. Remove them, and the axles should pull out with a slide hammer. I've used a sledgehammer and a piece of chain looped thru aforementioned axle hole if they're really tight. Some people put silicon around the axle bearing which sticks the rascals in there. Once the axles are out you can undo all the nuts and take the 3rd member (diff head, centre section) out too. Makes the housing a lot lighter to work with.
 
What Golly Said!
My advice, is to buy you a repair book. Since its rusty enough to sandblast, its rough enough to need seals, brakeshoes, I'd just pull it all down, clean it out good, freshen it all up, and it'll be something you won't have to deal with ever again. A TBucket won't put any strain at all on a 8"....
 
Blow that thing off real good with an air hose or pressure washer before pulling it down. The more places the sand or grit get in there, the worse. Good luck,
 
Hmmmm....I have a pretty rusty Ford 8.8" that I was planning on sand blasting. Is there a better alternative to sand blasting? What about using soda instead of sand?
 
Wire wheel on a 4 1/2" grinder.

Will that really work for the nooks and crannies? My last attempt with a wire wheel on an engine block was less that successful...it left me a bit paranoid about the subsequent paint job holding up.
 
Also, cover up your vent tube or plug it, it goes directly into the axle tube....
Wire brush really good w/ 4 1/2" angle grinder w/ cup brush. Better yet, prewash it with degreaser and pressure washer, then wirebrush it.
Don't aim blasting nozzle at any Seal area....wipe down with acetone after rebuild
 
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My $.02.. unless you have the means to wash the housing inside & out after sandblasting , don't do it , abrasive particles of the blast medium will penetrate seals , bearings , splines , in short , any opening.
dave
 
My $.02.. unless you have the means to wash the housing inside & out after sandblasting , don't do it , abrasive particles of the blast medium will penetrate seals , bearings , splines , in short , any opening.
dave
^^^ This.

I cannot think of a better example of not taking the time to do things the right way, the first time around. Take it apart, degrease it, blast it with whatever medium you prefer, then wash everything, meticulously. Scrub brushes, bottle brushes, screaming hot water and Tide laundry detergent. From there, your next step is to wash everything again, meticulously. Only this time, use scrub brushes, bottle brushes, screaming hot water and Tide laundry detergent. Once you get it as clean as you can get it, then wash it again, meticulously. And on this wash, use scrub brushes, bottle brushes, screaming hot water and Tide laundry detergent.

After the third wash, examine yourself in a mirror. Is any article of your clothing still dry? If so, then it is time to start over, using scrub brushes, bottle brushes, screaming hot water and Tide laundry detergent. Once you are certain you are more wet than the components you are washing, then you only need to repeat the process one more time. Don't be shy about it, just accept the fact that you will never be able to get it completely clean, and just keep scrubbing.

Mind, if you have the time to do it, then make sure you do it right. If you don't have the time to do it right, then put the project off until you do have the time. Cut the corners and it will always be niggling your mind, every time you drive the car. And, as all of us know, the abrasive media isn't going to cause a problem until you are all alone, in the middle of the night, 35 miles from the nearest town, and with no bars on your mobile phone. Then, and only then, will you be taught the lesson of cutting corners.
 
I sanded mine down with a sander disk on my angle grinder. Sanded all the pits out. Made it look like new.
 
Mine was just the housing, no third member. But I packed the axle tube opening and third member opening with old socks as full and tight as I could get it. I then made a plexiglass plate for each opending and RTV'd each one and then bolted them on. I used the old axle bearing retainers on the tube ends and hardware store nuts on the chunk opening. A couple washers under the old axle vent with some RTV in the end, and that puppy was sealed. Had the blaster clean it up, then off to the paint shop. Only thing I would have done different would be some rubber/vinly caps on the bolts. Lots of paint to clean off the threads in order to get the bolts/nuts off the plexiglass pieces. IF anything was to get past the RTV, and it wouldn't, each rag pulled out of its respective opening would hopefully bring with it any contaminents that might have gotten through, which nothing did. No pics of it blasted, since it went from the blaster directly to the painter.



 
What they said...all it takes is a grain of sand to get past the lip of 1 seal....about 50 miles down the road and you have a rearend full lapping compound. Then, when you do discover the problem, you'll be replacing it all....pinion bearings, carrier bearings, wheel bearings also, not to mention loosing the seals to boot.
Feeling Lucky?....
 
Recently seen a guy do just that, with a transmission. A Lenco, Costed him a small fortune to get it rebuilt. 3 passes, wouldn't even stay in gear anymore, and was singing like a turbocharger. Pulled the plug....glittery looking mud drained out slowly.
 
Hmmmm....I have a pretty rusty Ford 8.8" that I was planning on sand blasting. Is there a better alternative to sand blasting? What about using soda instead of sand?
Soda blasting isn't as abrasive and there are alot of diff. blasting media. But if that soda gets into the oil, its still not good. If any of it, I don't care if its the pecan shells....it can trash a bearing, which is precision ground to very tight and exacting tolerances. Theres no built in tolerance in the bearing for trash to go thru it.
Once those balls are stopped from rotating and they start scuffing with that thick rear end lube, your in serious trouble. I've seen rears lock up because of that.
Don't need that going down the road in a light bucket at 65 mph, having the rear lock up is a recipe for a whole lotta no fun
 

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