Squaring it up

[PaulR]

When would be the best time to get the front axle and rear end to be square with the frame? Before or after the engine and tranny are in? What is the best way to do this? As always Thanks.

PaulR

 

[tfeverfred]

It would have to be easier to do those adjustments before the engine/tranny. Not that you couldn't, but it would be a lot easier. Any veterans want to chime in?

 

[Youngster]

As soon as you have your chassis up on wheels square it up. The chassis is the foundation of your whole car. Each time I add something to the chassis, I re-check to be sure nothing has changed.

 

[donsrods]

It's easier to triangulate the front and rear ends before the engine and body are on because they get in the way of pulling a straight string or tape measure from front to rear and vice versa. The idea of triangulating is to pick a spot exactly in the dead center of your rear frame crossmember and measure to each kingpin on the front axle. This measurement should be exactly the same on both sides. If it is not, you turn in your radius rod ends until they are the same on both sides.

For the rear, you pick a spot dead center on the front crossmember and measure to something like the axle flange on each side of the housing. Again, this measurement should be exactly the same.

Once the engine and body are on you need to use a different system. You have to determine the exact centerline of the car from front to back and draw a straight line down this line. Off of that point you have to square up the front and rear axles. Doing it is too complicated for me to do in several paragraphs, but here is a picture of us doing it to my Son's T. That taped box on the floor is exactly square from corner to corner, and the line down the middle is dead on the centerline of the car. From this box you take measurements until the front and rear are square to the box.

Don

 

[VegasBruce]

Well put Don.

 

[PaulR]

Thank you for the information. Glad there are people out there willing to share information.

PaulR

 

[Mike]

If the car is already assembled, a plumb bob is your friend. You can drop all your points to the floor and then roll the car out of the way to take your measurements.

 

[PaulR]

The car is not assembled, just the front axle and rear-end housing are in. I did as Don described, pulled a tape to the king pins and there was an 1/8" diff. Readjusted the radius arms. Even now. I'll do the rear end this weekend.
Thanks to all.

PaulR

 

[butch27]

I find a point on the frame and measure to the rear brake bleeder THEN string the car to get the front tires paralel by measuring from the box I made with the string and jackstands. keeping the string next to the rear tires at all times.

 

[Mikey]

Again, it just doesnt really matter all that much. You can use a tape measure and get it either way. Prolly it would be less headache if you did it before your engine trans was in, but with a jack, I dont see as it would be all that hard. You adjust it with the hiems and clevis and they are on the outside... Mikey

 

[blownt]

here's an easy way. Measure from front center to each side of rear. Numbers should match to be square. Then the same rear to front.

Doesn't matter when ya do it. But I'd definently do it before the first drive.