Steering Box Location

[tnoftsger]

Ok Guys,

After extending the Bucket and frame, it was time to set the steering column and box back on top the frame rail. The stupid thing won't fit between the header pipe and the firewall and leave room for the univeral. It's a Unisteer and about 4" long.

I am currently running a 4" spacer on the fan and have 2-1/2" between the fan and radiator, so i guess i could move the engine forward.

Or i could raise the engine/transmission to allow for more space under the header, but it would cost me even more interior space, the body is alread channeled.

I tried to fit the reversed corvair box inside the frame rail between the frame and motor, but the CCR frame is too tight.

Forgive the condition of everything, last weekends hardwood flooring adventure is still covering everything.
Any other options?

 

[Keeper]

The CCR plans call for the box to be mounted on top. You using the CCR plans and brackets?

 

[PotvinGuy]

Could you heat and beat on the pipe, or insert a curved section to clear?

 

[Ted Brown]

I would move the steering box closer to the fire wall and use a straight shaft with splines and a stock coupler, just make the hole in the firewall large enough to clear the coupler... Make sure you have the steering wheel in a comfortable position before welding the box mount to the frame... Try and keep it as high as will fit... The engine may be a bit low, but can't tell in these pics for sure...

 

[Youngster]

If you don't like the looks of the stock coupler, this is one from Speedway;

pn ... 910-32284

Ron

 

[deckofficer]

Ted,

You mean something like this? Don't worry Ted, I'm not using that cast aluminum box anymore, got a steel one now, old picture

Bob

And this is why.............

 

[Ted Brown]

Bob, No that is not what I meant, a straight connection is what I said, not a U joint... I had tubing splined at one end just for steering shafts, I like to keep that connection (box to shaft) as tight as possible... but you have to get your steering wheel in the correct position before making and welding the mount to the frame.. (NOTE: If you can find a stock box with the long steering shaft, use that) If you do it before you are (sitting) in a comfortable seating position, with your hands on the wheel, you will end up uncomfortable for the life of your driving that car... BTDT PS, Sorry we did not catch that loose (steering box) connection at my place, if I had driven your car, I would have checked it out, and found that...

 

[Ted Brown]

Bob, I also see that you have header gaskets on those stock rams horns, also a no no, not needed with that type of exhaust manifold, plus I would use a bolt that I could tighten better than those small Allen type, BTDT

 

[Youngster]

It great to be able to use a straight conector. If you are trying to correct someone elses work (or your own) the u-joint conector will come in real handy. Just be sure to use some Loctite on that set screw and lock nut.

Ron

 

[PotvinGuy]

It great to be able to use a straight conector. If you are trying to correct someone elses work (or your own) the u-joint conector will come in real handy. Just be sure to use some Loctite on that set screw and lock nut.

Ron

Amen on the Loctite. During a routine cleaning, I was shocked to have the set screw come off in my hand! Oh, if you need lots of offset, a double U-joint is the deal. I use one.

 

[blownt]

if you use a straight connector then your box and mounting bracket has to be at the position in relation to the angle you want for your steering column and all has to be mocked up together along with the body position. I used a Borgeson U-joint on the end of the Corvair box and is partially inside the firewall (still close tolerences with the box, body and rear header tube). With the u-joint you can use whatever column angle you want. Here is a lousy blow-up of an old digital pic.


http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad249/blownt/steeringbox.jpg

 

[deckofficer]

Ted,

Thanks again for the tips. Don't beat yourself up on the steering box, it wasn't loose at your house, just a little play in it. It backed out from vibration because I finished the 101 Fun Run after losing 2 cylinders.

Bob

 

[Youngster]

Watch that steel box around the large spanner nut. I have replaced 3 in the last few years because of a crack in that area. If you see a grease trail chances are real good you have a crack.

Ron

 

[tnoftsger]

Does anyone make a straight coupler with the appropriate splines on one end and a 3/4" double d on the other?

I am considering the idea of having the univeral partially inside the firewall. Just want to make sure i can fit a firewall shaft support bearing on the inside for column support.

 

[RPM]

Why did you cut the shaft off to start with? If would have just cut off what you did not need instead of the whole shaft, you would not be needing to add it back on. Sell that box and get one with a 4 foot shaft and cut it as needed.

 

[butch27]

Bob: Where are you located? May able to help.

 

[Ted Brown]

RPM is right, but you only need the stock steering shaft (but may have to buy the whole box to get one)... As far as the CCR plans, it is my fault that the engines are so low in the chassis... After years of driving on every type of bad road there is, I have found that the engines need to be mounted higher in the frame.. I think the oil pan and fly wheel need to be a min. of 5 better yet 6 inches off the ground while loaded and driving, this will also give more steering box clearance and can it can be mounted higher also...

 

[blownt]

As far as the CCR plans, it is my fault that the engines are so low in the chassis... After years of driving on every type of bad road there is, I have found that the engines need to be mounted higher in the frame.. I think the oil pan and fly wheel need to be a min. of 5 better yet 6 inches off the ground while loaded and driving, this will also give more steering box clearance and can it can be mounted higher also...



I'll agree 110% on that. I have cussed many a times removing/installing the steering box or left header. And with my 6" drop axle I have about 2 1/2" under my Slamguard oil pan. I wish I had raised the engine/trans up another 3" and cut and reworked the trans tunnel 18 years ago.

 

[tnoftsger]

I could get a long shaft and make it work alignment wise, but i don't relish the idea of a 5/8" diameter shaft and finding an adapter to intall my quick release steering wheel.

I might go the raising the motor route. Even if i fit the box in the CCR plan location, it will be TIGHT! Might as well solve the problem Long Term.

 

[409T]

I probably have the same frame as you, and I was able to put 1 1/4" spacers in my motor mounts to raise the engine without having to mess with the trans tunnel.

Jeff