Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Steering Column length?

:thumb:
Order me a Flaming river 32" column and a Flaming river u-joint.
 
Hi

All sounds a bit long to me. Mine measured 21'' less the UJ.
Huh... go figure!!!

Steering-column-final.jpg

Gerry
 
This is with the bar cut at 33"
Also the steering box to the firewall is all most 12"

[attachment=3708:steering 2.JPG]
Not to hijack this thread but where did you get those seats?Exacticaly what im looking for.
 
Yes, but your wheel better have a littlesome dish with that one. I have the same one (Grant) and have a flat 4 spoke bell-style wheel on a flaming river 28" tilt column. My turn signal lever is a bit close to the wheel. I will be replacing it with a taller one made by flaming river for a flat wheel. The flat wheel adapter is longer so there is no interference issues with the levers and the extra inch or two will actually make my driving position better and close to the mocked up one. One lesson I learned--mock it up with the wheel and adapter that you'll really be using!
dummy.gif


Mockup wheel:



Actual wheel:

steering-sm.jpg

Got my column. and a grant kit. The post cover in the grant kit is the same size as the column. Looks like when I tighten it down its going to rub. Should the post cover be slightly larger then the column?
 
BenT,

Whose 4-spoke wheel do you have? I've been looking at a 4-spoke LimeWorks wheel but haven't decided yet.

Bruce
 
I should have taken pictures but I was so excited to be actually doing it, that I didn't want to be slowed down by the hassle of going back upstairs to get the camera, LOL, so don't beat me too bad. I promise to take pictures next time. I bought a straight stainless T column from a fellow Tbucketeer (as well as a signal switch from Mickey Lauria) which helped me mock up my steering and to figure out the true length I wanted/needed. I was able to figure out that if the stainless column was 4" shorter, that that would be the ideal length for me. I really wanted a tilt though. So, not having the money for an Ididit, or Flaming River column especially since I would need an even more expensive custom length unit built, I bought one of the cheap $250 chrome tilt columns off ebay a week ago in the hopes that I could cut it down and make it work. It measures 32" out of the box. An hour later and I've got it completely torn down and figuring out my gameplan. I'm running a CCR standard body, so the u-joint is right at the firewall, and from the measurements I had, I knew I needed to take 9 inches out of the new column. The bottom bearing also isn't really a bearing, but just a plastic bushing, so I wanted to somehow fix that. The output shaft is 1"DD, and I'd prefer a 3/4" DD. If you take it apart you'll find that the upper shaft that has the tilt swivel joint on it, is a solid 3/4" DD and the lower is a 1" DD sleeve welded to the upper 3/4" DD. I wanted a 3/4" DD at the firewall due to a larger U-joint selection in the aftermarket, so I ground through the weld, slid the 1" DD sleeve off, whacked off 7 or 8 inches of the 3/4" DD, cut down the 1"DD to use as a filler or extension inside the tube, used the whacked off 3/4" DD as the new lower column output, lined up everything to give me the length I wanted and tacked it up (for mock-up). Got a flanged ball bearing that fits both the outer column tube and the new 3/4" DD lower shaft. I took the original lower bearing/bushing retainer and ground the flange off, moved it up inside the outer tube and welded it to the new lower ball bearing and rewelded it to the inner tube. I now have 2 inches of the bottom end of the column that has solid chunks of steel inside it that will withstand any crush from whatever lower column mount I can fab up. The hole for the wiring is untouched and in the perfect spot between where a lower column mount and an upper column drop would attach. Quick test-fit in the T and so far, I'm a happy camper!
 
BenT,

Whose 4-spoke wheel do you have? I've been looking at a 4-spoke LimeWorks wheel but haven't decided yet.

Bruce


Sorry for the delayed reply--got my computer taken apart as we're re-doing the home office.
suicide.gif


Anyway, my wheel is a Limework's 4 spoke with holes. It comes with a black rubber grip and I had my upholstery guy wrap it. As I stated before, with the GM style column, there is clearance issues with the turnsignal. I also need an extra inch or two of height. I'm replacing the adapter with this one from Flaming River (FR3302):

prd_zm_410.jpg
 
Got my column. and a grant kit. The post cover in the grant kit is the same size as the column. Looks like when I tighten it down its going to rub. Should the post cover be slightly larger then the column?


Mine looked like it was going to rub too, but it didn't. The grant adapter works pretty well--my dad has the same adapter on his '27 with a real GM tilt column.
 
BenT,

Would appreciate if you could post a photo after you install the Flaming River adapter.
 
BenT,

Would appreciate if you could post a photo after you install the Flaming River adapter.

Finally got to getting the Flaming River adapter put on. Install was easy, only had to do a bit of modification to the wire for the horn. The end was too big for them stem on the horn button.

Anyway the fit and finish is really nice- pretty much what I expect from Flaming River. I needed this adapter to move the wheel out some and to have a better transition to the flat Bell-style wheel. You can scroll up and see the previous grant adapter, here is the Flaming River one installed:

DSCF0324.jpg
 
Ben,


Thanks for posting the photo, looks like a nice improvement. I'll keep it in mind when I get my Limeworks wheel.

Bruce
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top