Steering Column - Serious set back!

[AndyMenon]

This is a serious set back!!!
The steering column was the last piece I was supposed to be done with yesterday. If not for this, the bucket was all ready to come off the ramps and a fire up!

I'm unable to install the steering column that I got from Wintec fabrications. It's a combination of reasons.
The steering box simply refuses to center in the opening in the floor.No matter how much I juggle it around. (Picture 1)
This causes the coupling to sit higher , and when I put in the steering column bracket, it sits bang on the coupler.
I figured out a solution to this problem, but it ain't pretty. The steering column bracket has to sit 1" higher on the floor for the coupler to be centered in the bracket (Pictures 2 and 3).

I have to prove this,by mocking this up on the bucket with 1" spacers.
But in the meantime, the question to the forum is: Is there someone who can help me cut out a spacer out of 1" steel as a final solution? Picture 3 illustrates the idea (and yes, they are TV remotes).

Thanks folks!
Andy

 

[railroad]

Really cannot get a handle on all the issues, but will extending the mount tube solve the problem?
I see now the coupling will not go inside the tube and the whole thing needs to be higher. If you can duplicate the flange, does not have to be exact, drill for the holes, cut 1 inch lengths of DOM tubing as spacers and weld it together. It will need to be mounted well as the steering column takes a lot of exertion. good luck,

 

[Screaming Metal]

I'm with RR, if you need to get the steering up, fine. extend the tubing. OR, if your talking about raising your mounting flange up 1" to correct a off-angle situation, get some 3/8's or 1/2 " ID tubing (which looks like the bolt size on the bottom of your flange), cut 1"long pieces in your chopsaw. Get some longer bolts to go thru the floor, the 1" long 3/8's to 1/2 ID spacers and thru your bracket. Align everything up, snug tap and tweak it to perfection. After you have it where you want it, go grab a empty pizza box. Toss it up on your workbench. Cut some paper templates to box in around your 1" spacers. Then, transfer them the the pizza box and cut out. Cut and fit and tape together. after its where you want it, transfer the cardboard pieces to some 10 ga. or 1/8 metal and cut them out. Tack together, put things back together, adjust with a hammer to make kit. double checking everything. Weld up solid and install....Incorporate the 1" spacers, with some sheetmetal to box it all in, tacking it all together while is place is the way to go.

Are you doing this to get above the setscrew and the jamnut on the adaptor? If so, shorten the setscrew so its not so long, use a thinner jamnut, tighten things up, then slide your bracket down over it.

Besides, cutting something out of 1"thick steel is pretty extreme....if anything, cut it from aluminum.....just my 2 pesos....

 

[AndyMenon]

I'm with RR, if you need to get the steering up, fine. extend the tubing. OR, if your talking about raising your mounting flange up 1" to correct a off-angle situation, get some 3/8's or 1/2 " ID tubing (which looks like the bolt size on the bottom of your flange), cut 1"long pieces in your chopsaw. Get some longer bolts to go thru the floor, the 1" long 3/8's to 1/2 ID spacers and thru your bracket. Align everything up, snug tap and tweak it to perfection. After you have it where you want it, go grab a empty pizza box. Toss it up on your workbench. Cut some paper templates to box in around your 1" spacers. Then, transfer them the the pizza box and cut out. Cut and fit and tape together. after its where you want it, transfer the cardboard pieces to some 10 ga. or 1/8 metal and cut them out. Tack together, put things back together, adjust with a hammer to make kit. double checking everything. Weld up solid and install....Incorporate the 1" spacers, with some sheetmetal to box it all in, tacking it all together while is place is the way to go.

Are you doing this to get above the setscrew and the jamnut on the adaptor? If so, shorten the setscrew so its not so long, use a thinner jamnut, tighten things up, then slide your bracket down over it.

Besides, cutting something out of 1"thick steel is pretty extreme....if anything, cut it from aluminum.....just my 2 pesos....

I wish the problems were the jam nuts. But they aren't . After I shot that pic I posted, I removed the jam nut and the screw completely. But the problem persists. The issue is not the jam nut, but the location where the 2 parts of the steering couplers are hinged on to each other. This joint interferes with the inside of the tubing on the steering column bracket.

This problem would go away if the steering box centers in the hole in the floor. I'm still not sure why it wouldn't center , coupler or no coupler. Nothing seems to be off in the body. The 4 mounting holes for the body line up perfectly with the frame. Also, the brake pedal and the master cylinder cutouts align perfectly . How can the steering box be off -center by so much?!

I have pushed the steering the box all the way up , as much as it would go, hoping that the shaft would center around the opening. Maybe I'm missing something. Let me take a look at it once more before acting on it.

Yep, steel is a bit extreme! Aluminum is good. But, I will need to find someone to do it for me.

Thanks,
Andy

 

[AndyMenon]

I wish the problems were the jam nuts. But they aren't . After I shot that pic I posted, I removed the jam nut and the screw completely. But the problem persists. The issue is not the jam nut, but the location where the 2 parts of the steering couplers are hinged on to each other. This joint interferes with the inside of the tubing on the steering column bracket.

This problem would go away if the steering box centers in the hole in the floor. I'm still not sure why it wouldn't center , coupler or no coupler. Nothing seems to be off in the body. The 4 mounting holes for the body line up perfectly with the frame. Also, the brake pedal and the master cylinder cutouts align perfectly . How can the steering box be off -center by so much?!

I have pushed the steering the box all the way up , as much as it would go, hoping that the shaft would center around the opening. Maybe I'm missing something. Let me take a look at it once more before acting on it.

Yep, steel is a bit extreme! Aluminum is good. But, I will need to find someone to do it for me.

Thanks,
Andy

Further to my last post, I unscrewed all the bolts off the steering box mounting holes, and I see that I am able to center the box in the floor cutout. Looks to me like the way I routed the wires seem to be the problem. But I just don't want to be overenthusiastic. Will keep you posted.

 

[Dirt-T]

Please do as I am at the same cross roads.

 

[Joe-405]

If im understanding .............................

Would a double joint coupler fix the issues ? They do sell them.

 

[AndyMenon]

Please do as I am at the same cross roads.

Hey Dirt-T,

I checked once again. When I remove all the bolts off the steering box mounting holes and center the coupling over the opening, the mounting holes of the steering box don't line up with those on the frame. The wires are moving freely regardless of how I position the box which means that they are not getting in the way of the box in any way.

But the problem is not as extreme, I have to mount the flange about 1/2" of the floor, and the holes in the floor align correctly with the holes in the mounting bracket. I tested this by placing the bracket on over sized nuts that are 1/2" thick and putting in extra-long bolts. With the bracket set up this way, I'm able to engage the steering shaft with the coupler and get free rotation of the steering wheel without any kind of binding.

Now the question is, how do I get the spacer made?

Thanks,
Andy

 

[Joe-405]

why dont you just use a piece of 1/2 inch plywood and cut one ? It would be lighter and the floor is plywood anyways.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Try Joe's suggestion, its alot easier to cut the wood than it is steel or alum. If things are better aligned, and it still clears, put a big thick fender washer of either side, pull down tight, that way you'll have the most strength....

 

[rbsWELDER]

I agree with Screaming Metal, try it in wood! Most people have wood tools. It is inexpensive to make. Should be quick to make and no need to get in a queue at a metal shop to see if it works. If it works, you can always convert it to meatl for the long haul.

 

[EX JUNK]

You have a wood floor, so why would making a spacer out of wood be a big deal?

Jim

 

[AndyMenon]

Yep! I am thinking of doing the same thing.

 

[BRUCE DYDA]

Mail me the tracing and I will cut one out of alu and mail it back to you, Its not that big a deal

 

[Screaming Metal]

Well, since your within 1/2", you could loosen your steering box, loosen your body, float it around and the steering box, you could possibly get it all right. Just make sure your body is centered side to side within reason. Always leave room for your distributor....
Get it as close that way, then do your spacer if you still need it....

 

[Track T-4]

Maybe I'm missing th epoint but can't you just widen the hole to better center the column? It will all eventually be covered anyway.

 

[Joe-405]

You guys reread his full post. lol

He needs to space it 1/2" up off the floor NOT side to side.

 

[WDP]

Andy,
I am assuming your car is from Wintec and may be similar to my Total Performance car. Most of it was purchased back in 2004 and your pics of the floor, holes and column plate look similar to mine. The hole for the steering gear on your floor looks closer to the brake pedal slot that on my car and that would account for it not centering.
My kit came with four 1/2 inch metal spacers that go between the body and frame rails that the body mounting bolts go through. With the body sitting higher the steering gear shaft doesn't extend into the body as far and the column mounting plate is up a half inch higher. My description may be as clear as mud!
You might give Jim at Wintec a call and see what he says. Total called them Body Mount Spacers.
Hope this helps

Dale

 

[Screaming Metal]

Andy,
I am assuming your car is from Wintec and may be similar to my Total Performance car. Most of it was purchased back in 2004 and your pics of the floor, holes and column plate look similar to mine. The hole for the steering gear on your floor looks closer to the brake pedal slot that on my car and that would account for it not centering.
My kit came with four 1/2 inch metal spacers that go between the body and frame rails that the body mounting bolts go through. With the body sitting higher the steering gear shaft doesn't extend into the body as far and the column mounting plate is up a half inch higher. My description may be as clear as mud!
You might give Jim at Wintec a call and see what he says. Total called them Body Mount Spacers.
Hope this helps

Dale

Those spacers would darn sure make a difference.....

 

[AndyMenon]

Andy,
I am assuming your car is from Wintec and may be similar to my Total Performance car. Most of it was purchased back in 2004 and your pics of the floor, holes and column plate look similar to mine. The hole for the steering gear on your floor looks closer to the brake pedal slot that on my car and that would account for it not centering.
My kit came with four 1/2 inch metal spacers that go between the body and frame rails that the body mounting bolts go through. With the body sitting higher the steering gear shaft doesn't extend into the body as far and the column mounting plate is up a half inch higher. My description may be as clear as mud!
You might give Jim at Wintec a call and see what he says. Total called them Body Mount Spacers.
Hope this helps

Dale

Thanks WDP! I am trying something at the moment. Will post pics in a few. If that does not work, then I'll get in touch with Jim at Wintec.

Andy