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"T" style radiator

baddawgcustoms

Active Member
The original radiator I bought for my T hung too low below my frame. (Good joke in there somewhere). Jacking up the radiator meant having it too high compared to the cowl, and can't have ANY of the radiator below the frame. I ordered the T style radiator from speedway today, and it's a good 2 inches shorter than the one I have now. Height problem solved. I wanted the retro style of the motometer and big chrome wings anyway. The new radiator of course doesn't use a conventional pressure cap but rather uses a pressure release valve that screws into the top tank and can be plumbed to a catch tank. Speedway says this works fine, but what says any of you that have used this kind of setup? Is there a better way to vent the system such as an inline radiator cap setup in the upper radiator hose? My engine sits very high anyway, so I've considered running a filler neck block that mounts to the intake and has the radiator cap on top with the vent tube. If I went this route would you use the pressure valve in the radiator top tank as well or just plug it off?
 
Well, You want your vent and pressure relief cap at the highest point in your cooling system. Have you seen the short piece of tubing with a radiator cap mounted in it on the top radiator hoses before? Thats because their cap on the radiator is too low, ie, they'd trap air in the system. You want to fill and vent your cooling system from the highest point, down to your catch can.
I believe we've covered this several years ago, so you might want to do a search on this....
Most ARCA and Busch Series/Nascar cars have these filler tubes/vent lines in the top hoses....

And yes, if your cap is up top in the radiator hose, and the rad cap on the radiator is BELOW your fill point, yes, plug off the vent tube there on the radiator, because your not venting from there. If you did, you'd have hot fluid streaming out and sometimes will have a siphoning action....and empty your whole cooling system.
http://www.amazon.com/Moroso-63730-Radiator-Hose-Filler/dp/B000CON23G
 
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Well, You want your vent and pressure relief cap at the highest point in your cooling system. Have you seen the short piece of tubing with a radiator cap mounted in it on the top radiator hoses before? Thats because their cap on the radiator is too low, ie, they'd trap air in the system. You want to fill and vent your cooling system from the highest point, down to your catch can.
I believe we've covered this several years ago, so you might want to do a search on this....
Most ARCA and Busch Series/Nascar cars have these filler tubes/vent lines in the top hoses....

And yes, if your cap is up top in the radiator hose, and the rad cap on the radiator is BELOW your fill point, yes, plug off the vent tube there on the radiator, because your not venting from there. If you did, you'd have hot fluid streaming out and sometimes will have a siphoning action....and empty your whole cooling system.
I searched around but nothing exactly like my situation. I'll get some pics as soon as the radiator comes in. From my measuring the pressure valve in the radiator will be about level with the filler neck on the intake, but the non-vented cap on the radiator will be higher than the neck on the intake.
 
:thumbsdown: What has me scratching my head is that the top of the non-vented cap on the rad is 3 inches above the top of the tank. The pressure release valve is below it in the tank. I don't see how that will ever work. :thumbsdown: Unless you just don't fill the tank above the vent? The water neck on the intake I'm sure will be above the vent in the tank so I can run the setup you posted. But....the radiator cap on the tank is still going to be above it. :thumbsdown: That's my dellima. Maybe just fill it up at the inline setup but that will leave air in the upper tank. Maybe that's not a problem but I just know you usually want ALL the air out of the system right?

This is what I was considering using. But still the cap on the radiator is higher but no way to vent it

image.jpg
 
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:thumbsdown: What has me scratching my head is that the top of the non-vented cap on the rad is 3 inches above the top of the tank. The pressure release valve is below it in the tank. I don't see how that will ever work. :thumbsdown: Unless you just don't fill the tank above the vent? The water neck on the intake I'm sure will be above the vent in the tank so I can run the setup you posted. But....the radiator cap on the tank is still going to be above it. :thumbsdown: That's my dellima. Maybe just fill it up at the inline setup but that will leave air in the upper tank. Maybe that's not a problem but I just know you usually want ALL the air out of the system right?

This is what I was considering using. But still the cap on the radiator is higher but no way to vent it

View attachment 10643
Actually, There has to be some space in the system either in the tank or via an active expansion tank for expansion when the coolant heats up or it would blow a hose or overpower the pressure valve. I don't know if that answers your entire question, but I hope it helps!
 
A related question...what concerns do you have with the radiator being below the frame? I have the same situation as you do with a low body, so in order to get the nose height correct in relation to the cowl I had to lower the radiator. I am making a lower radiator support cross member and skid plate to keep it protected. That's how I solve the problem, anyway. I still have 5 inches of clearance from the radiator to the ground, I hope that's enough! Good luck!
 
A related question...what concerns do you have with the radiator being below the frame? I have the same situation as you do with a low body, so in order to get the nose height correct in relation to the cowl I had to lower the radiator. I am making a lower radiator support cross member and skid plate to keep it protected. That's how I solve the problem, anyway. I still have 5 inches of clearance from the radiator to the ground, I hope that's enough! Good luck!
The reason it can't go below the frame is my frame is only 4" off the ground in the front, so anything below the frame is just too close for comfort. I even have the oil pan and transmission pan above the frame rails.
 
The picture doesn't have the radiator in it but it fits perfectly in the shell so you can see how high the engine sits. I went ahead and ordered the housing I posted before. I think that's the best way with my setup. The weird thing I questioned about was the tech guy at speedway says the relief valve is in the bottom of the top tank. He couldn't explain how that's gonna work. He basically said as long as the engine doesn't overheat it's not a problem.....that's what had me saying........huh?
image.jpg
 
The picture doesn't have the radiator in it but it fits perfectly in the shell so you can see how high the engine sits. I went ahead and ordered the housing I posted before. I think that's the best way with my setup. The weird thing I questioned about was the tech guy at speedway says the relief valve is in the bottom of the top tank. He couldn't explain how that's gonna work. He basically said as long as the engine doesn't overheat it's not a problem.....that's what had me saying........huh?
View attachment 10647
The pressure relief valve will only open if the car overheats and exceeds the rating of the valve. It will blow the coolant out, but it would anyways, even when on the top of the radiator, because the coolant vaporizes when it boils, which is what causes the over expansion, thus excessive pressure. A lot of newer cars have the radiator below the high point of the engine. They use remote active expansion tanks, not just overflow catch cans, where the coolant level actually rises and falls depending on temperature. They are located in different locations usually on a fender well. They also have purge vents in the thermostat housing, etc...They are a pain to get full of coolant and purge the air from in my experience. I usually jack one corner up to help. I am not familiar with the exact radiator you are talking about, but I wonder if it is designed for this type setup?
 
The reason it can't go below the frame is my frame is only 4" off the ground in the front, so anything below the frame is just too close for comfort. I even have the oil pan and transmission pan above the frame rails.

Thanks, I see it now in your picture. Your frame is much lower than my Z'd chassis on the front end, but looks totally cool!
 

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