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TH2004R band apply servo Q

herrakani

New Member
Is there a way to make sure the 2:nd gear band apply servo pin is in the right spot?
I have one overhauled and modified box and one only overhauled. I am using the overhauled one to my winterbeater and I am done otherwise but the 2:nd gear servo.
When I look to the servo pin apply hole, I see just a 1/8" of the band corner, in the modified box I see the hole in the band which would normally seat the piston.

How can I align the band to be in the correct position to seat the servo pin?
 
971395_10152047793648395_2076687173_n.jpg


Left you see just a little of the band corner, maybe 1/8" on the top side, right one you see the brass colored cup the apply pin seats into.
 
The only possibility I can see is to pull the pan and reach in from the other side and press on the band pushing on it such that you can get the servo pin installed. After that, then try pushing/releasing the pin and you should be able to feel the band move.

If you want to test after the servo is completely installed you would need to pull the valve body and perform an air test. Check out the photos below.

IntermediateBandAirTest03_4238.jpg

IntermediateBandAirTest01_4301.jpg

IntermediateBandAirTest02_4300.jpg
 
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Not sure I understand because I can't think of an o-ring that would make any difference. Maybe the photo below will help us.

BTW, the annotation were done when I posted these pics on another forum, so they may not always make sense to you.

BilletServo_3035.jpg
 
I meant the o-ring below the arrow, the case o-ring.
The movement is measured by the movement of the cover I think?
It moves less with the o-ring.
 
Looks like you are right, it appears that 0-ring would make a difference. This was the first and only automatic that I have rebuilt and completed several months ago.

I will have to check in the CK Performance book that I used for this project. I will try to get back with you tonight, but it might be tomorrow. I have something going on tonight.

Dorian is a guy in Belgium that loaned me his book.

CK Performance Book.jpg
 
Sorry it took me longer than I expected to respond, work would just not leave me alone long enough earlier this morning.

I have the ATSG manual and it has a completely different approach to adjusting the servo for the intermediate band using a torque wrench(100 inch/lbs) and some special tool.

The CK Performance book says to remove the 0-ring (ID #17). He also wants you to add a special piece to the end of the Intermediate Band Apply Pin (ID#27) to lengthen it. Then grind the end off until you can almost get the snap ring in place. Then grind another 0.060 inches off.

So it looks like you are on the right track with your numbers.

Note:
The ID#s should agree with your PATC book, I think it's the same book just a different name.

IntermediateBandServoDiagram.jpg

The Apply Pin #27 is available in four different lengths and can be identified by the number of grooves.
None, One, Two or Three.

I do need to make one qualifying statement, the CK Performance book is geared toward building a 200-4R trans that will hold up to 500 HP.

As far as how I setup my trans up ..... I installed the CKP servo assembly, so there was no adjusting it.

Did you install the wider band that is available? No modification is required to the Direct Clutch Housing ID#601, and adds considerably more area for the friction material.

How many HP will your engine be? Good to see someone else running this trans!!!

CKP_InterBand_3467.jpg
 
No I have a box rebuilt by someone else, I just put a syskokal shiftkit and TH200C servo and smaller speedo gear in it. I think I'll put this to my winterbeater '85 Olds CC with a 305 SBC around 250hp +125 shot and a 11" 2400 stall turbine and 3.42 rear.
I also did a full custom TH2004R with all the cool aftermarket parts which I will be installing to my bucket.
I am aiming towards 500hp in my bucket with a 6/71 and EFI stuff.

I think I grinded the piston pin too much, now it has around .080-.090 with the o-ring. Might do the pressure test on saturday.
Thanks for the info.
 
74938_10152050764303395_510056062_n.jpg


And I btw meant the ATSG book. :D

The one on the right is the tuned one, left being the stock one I modified yesterday.
Mods on the tuned: 10 vane impeller, hardened rings, added discs, torrington bearings, hardened stator, winder band... and might be more. I don't frankly remember, it has been sitting around for too long. I'll do a quick check to it before it goes anywhere near an engine.
 
I shortened a spare pin less, now its perfect. Thanks indycars!!
That's great news!

Let me know if there is anything else, I have over 1200 photos of my build that took about 6 months with all the machine work. Every plastic or metal thrust washer was replaced with a Torrington Thrust Bearing. There is no reference anywhere to the torrington bearing numbers that are needed, nor how much to machine off the mating surfaces. I just lucked into a machine shop where the owner was also the owner a transmission repair shop. He would hunt down the torrington bearings that had the right dimension. He gave me all the part numbers for each bearing.
 

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