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Tires to build on

What sixe rear tires

  • 31 X 18.5

    Votes: 3 75.0%
  • 29 X 16.5

    Votes: 1 25.0%
  • 29 x 18.5

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    4
  • Poll closed .

Jeff

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Time to get some tires to build on. I am looking for suggestions on tire sizes This is where I am at in the build sbf at 500 + hp set up in the 3000 stall range. Running Turbo 400 trans. Rear gear around 4.10 speculated, have not gear yet purchased yet. Rear rims are CL 15 z 14 auto drags. Wanting to run a set of 14s that I have already on 14 x 7 CL rims on the front to make up for the loss in front axel drop. Frame was set up for 4 inch drop and I only have about 3 inch drop in front axle. I am looking at 31 x 18.5 rears right along with 29 x 16.5 and 29 x 18.5 now but very undecided at this point. I also have a set of 15 X 7 CL rims I could use on the front if need be but no tires for them. Just looking for some input before buying rears. I am needing to get them soon so as to get the mock up done and continue the build. I am trying to make a June roll out nut it might be too much to ask at his point. Just have to see how much I can get done from here. It might be nice to add a tire size and looks photo section to the site as well? DSC02479.JPG
 
I think I would choose the 31" tires with 4.10 gears.
 
I have 31" tall rear tires on my car with a 4.10 posi. With the car in final drive ratio of one to one here are my speeds per RPM: 1000=19.5, 1500=29.3, 2000=39.1, 2500=48.9, 3000=58.6, 3500=68.4, 4000=78.2, 4500=88.0, 5000=97.7.

Jim
 
Jim are those speeds with TH400 ? They look pretty good. My gear is still up in the air at this point as I have not yet purchased one. I got with engine shop today they said it will need 3500 to 4000 stall converter as set up. Thanks for the info I am just trying to get it all worked out at this point. If any one has other numbers please post.
 
Jim are those speeds with TH400 ? They look pretty good. My gear is still up in the air at this point as I have not yet purchased one. I got with engine shop today they said it will need 3500 to 4000 stall converter as set up. Thanks for the info I am just trying to get it all worked out at this point. If any one has other numbers please post.

Jeff, those speeds quoted are for a final drive ratio in the transmission of one to one which is the same for a T350 and T400. They are not correct for an overdrive transmission which has a final drive ratio of less than one to one.

Jim
 
Here is a good gear ratio calculator that lets you play with different transmissions, gear ratios, and tire sizes. It's set up for 4x4's but just ignore the transfer case and underdrive fields and it works fine for cars. Now like all gear ratio calculators its a little optimistic on the speeds because you have a torque converter that slips and that will raise rpm per mph a bit based on how much converter slip you have but it will get you close. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
 
Here is a good gear ratio calculator that lets you play with different transmissions, gear ratios, and tire sizes. It's set up for 4x4's but just ignore the transfer case and underdrive fields and it works fine for cars. Now like all gear ratio calculators its a little optimistic on the speeds because you have a torque converter that slips and that will raise rpm per mph a bit based on how much converter slip you have but it will get you close. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

Good point, James. I personally do not run a high stall converter. The one I'm running is one step above stock which I got from Summit. There is no more "creep" with that set up than stock in my opinion and with the rear suspension that I have the car launches and hooks up very well.

Jim
 
Many thanks to all the gear ratio calculator is a great page to work with. Looks like I will be going with about a 3500 brake stall converter with 31 inch rears and 4.10 gear. Engine builder says 3500 to 4000 stall. Engine was built with strip in mind if I wanted to go that way later on with minor changes to it. That's why the high number for the stall he is quoting.
 
Many thanks to all the gear ratio calculator is a great page to work with. Looks like I will be going with about a 3500 brake stall converter with 31 inch rears and 4.10 gear. Engine builder says 3500 to 4000 stall. Engine was built with strip in mind if I wanted to go that way later on with minor changes to it. That's why the high number for the stall he is quoting.

Don't forget the roll bar! And helmet. Most tracks won't let you on without them.
 
Many thanks to all.

Ok I went with the 31 x 18.5 Hoosier radials. I found them on this web site cheaper than anywhere else. http://autoplicity.com/ This is not the only time I found my best deal here. The shipping cost was unbelievable at only 11 dollars, for about fifty bucks worth of total savings on tires. Just thought I would pass this along.

Yea i know a roll bar and helmet might be useful items. I am going to put wheelie bars on it. I built it dual purpose for a reason. I might want to put it in a strip car at some point and only wanted to spend the funds for a hot engine once. Set it up to turn 7800 if I want too but it will never see it in a bucket. That's what the Dyno is for. Should be on it in a few weeks. All the parts are at the shop to complete the job. Including crank trigger water pump pulleys and carbs. Got to get the frame up finished so i have some where to put it when it get done and there are not enough hours in the day as an inexperienced builder. I thought about farming it out but what can you learn from that. I was going to assembel the engine myself but when they said they would do it for 450 and the Dyno cost savings was more than that if they assembled it I told them do it. I can see where they are coming from having to dyno an engine they know nothing about.
 
Last edited:
Many thanks to all.

Ok I went with the 31 x 18.5 Hoosier radials. I found them on this web site cheaper than anywhere else. http://autoplicity.com/ This is not the only time I found my best deal here. The shipping cost was unbelievable at only 11 dollars, for about fifty bucks worth of total savings on tires. Just thought I would pass this along.

Yea i know a roll bar and helmet might be useful items. I am going to put wheelie bars on it. I built it dual purpose for a reason. I might want to put it in a strip car at some point and only wanted to spend the funds for a hot engine once. Set it up to turn 7800 if I want too but it will never see it in a bucket. That's what the Dyno is for. Should be on it in a few weeks. All the parts are at the shop to complete the job. Including crank trigger water pump pulleys and carbs. Got to get the frame up finished so i have some where to put it when it get done and there are not enough hours in the day as an inexperienced builder. I thought about farming it out but what can you learn from that. I was going to assembel the engine myself but when they said they would do it for 450 and the Dyno cost savings was more than that if they assembled it I told them do it. I an see where they are coming from having to dyno an engine they know nothing about.
Jeff...If you are really planning to race it occasionally you should give serious thought about some body inter structure for side impact protection. I know these cars are tight but so is a coffin!

George
 
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I wouldn't race the bucket. I would take the engine and trans out and use it else where. Probably a Mustang Fairlane or the like. I put a stang pan on it.
 

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