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Transmission rebuild kit

Just finished checking end play. .072 Hope the pump is still good.
I thought of that when I started designing the cross member. The body will be removable but with steering n wiring it would be a real pain so all I have to do is unbolt the mount, then unbolt the transmission cross member, support the motor, unbolt the torque converter and bell housing, and drop er down.
 
I bought a Ford AOD for $25. The book was $30. The rebuild & shift kit parts another $250 or so. Read the book, rebuilt the AOD. Had to take one clutch pack to a shop to have them install a piston lip seal; cost $10. Of course couldn't tell if it was going to work until I was able to drive the car. So four years later I found out that it worked. Shifts great. That was the first and only time I ever worked on a transmission of any kind. Be proud of your work Bucketman.
 
I am glad you figured the 350 out! Don't feel bad about the book thing, The mans way is to read the instructions only after all else fails! per my wife. I also like your frame. It looks to me like the cross member is a bolt in design, right? Anyways, you taught me something on the th350... I didn't know about the TCS switch, I somehow missed those models out of the numerous 350's I have seen. I was a mechanic at a local cab company in the 80's and they used 1978-82 Caprices as their primary cars. I worked on more th350's than I can remember and somehow missed it or overlooked it. They used a lot of bone yard parts too. I wonder if that was a thing that GM used in certain markets like California or the like for emission standards? That's the cool thing about these kind of sites, you can get some good info from other guys in a similar mess...I bet that TCS was emission control, or to help with spark knock (pre ignition), that's about the same time they came out with EGR , low octane gas, and retarded cam timing thanks the the energy crisis and all that stuff. Remember all that? That killed the real American cars, in my opinion. If your pan has a drain plug, it is an older one. That is a nice feature and they quit doing it in the late 70's sometime. Good luck and keep up the good work on your build, Keep me posted with your progress, I need the encouragement to get motivated. I bet you will make closer to 275-300 hp with that setup, depending on the cam. Those 882's are closed chamber and make decent compression. I ran a set on a 383 and they flowed amazingly well for no more work than I did to them. They may make a little more compression than you want with a blower, depending on how much boost you run. I think the preferred ratio is in the 8-1 area and those 882's should make 9-10:1, depending on piston design and head gasket thickness.
 
I am glad you figured the 350 out! Don't feel bad about the book thing, The mans way is to read the instructions only after all else fails! per my wife. I also like your frame. It looks to me like the cross member is a bolt in design, right? Anyways, you taught me something on the th350... I didn't know about the TCS switch, I somehow missed those models out of the numerous 350's I have seen. I was a mechanic at a local cab company in the 80's and they used 1978-82 Caprices as their primary cars. I worked on more th350's than I can remember and somehow missed it or overlooked it. They used a lot of bone yard parts too. I wonder if that was a thing that GM used in certain markets like California or the like for emission standards? That's the cool thing about these kind of sites, you can get some good info from other guys in a similar mess...I bet that TCS was emission control, or to help with spark knock (pre ignition), that's about the same time they came out with EGR , low octane gas, and retarded cam timing thanks the the energy crisis and all that stuff. Remember all that? That killed the real American cars, in my opinion. If your pan has a drain plug, it is an older one. That is a nice feature and they quit doing it in the late 70's sometime. Good luck and keep up the good work on your build, Keep me posted with your progress, I need the encouragement to get motivated. I bet you will make closer to 275-300 hp with that setup, depending on the cam. Those 882's are closed chamber and make decent compression. I ran a set on a 383 and they flowed amazingly well for no more work than I did to them. They may make a little more compression than you want with a blower, depending on how much boost you run. I think the preferred ratio is in the 8-1 area and those 882's should make 9-10:1, depending on piston design and head gasket thickness.


The 882's have a 74 cc chamber, but they are known for cracking between the intake and exhaust valve. I haven't torn the engine apart because the guy I bought it from said it ran good. If it aint broke....... I'll save the engine for next winter. I read the darn book but didn't comprehend half of it. I looked at the pictures until I saw that unexplained electrical plug in one and started searching the page. Like I said it was one little paragraph that said it was a tcs switch. Only used from 1970 thru 1974. Installed into the 2-3 pressure port. Remove to clean block. But that was enough.
Not sure what cam it has if it's any different than stock. I think with stock pistons the heads are 9:1. It'll be fine for a 1500 lb car. Should scoot around pretty quick. Anything more would just be rubber on the pavement.
 
It Will, I have faith in you! Just check your clutch pack operation with air as you go to make sure the seals are ok and keep everything well lubed and you will do fine!
A quick tip on the pump: I sometimes machine the face of the the pump gears with emery cloth on a flat surface to reduce end play and clean them up, especially if there are any nicks, burs, or grooves worn in them, but be careful and use fine grade emery and a flat surface and there is a front and rear orientation, so pay attention.
 
A quick tip on the pump: I sometimes machine the face of the the pump gears with emery cloth on a flat surface to reduce end play and clean them up, especially if there are any nicks, burs, or grooves worn in them, but be careful and use fine grade emery and a flat surface and there is a front and rear orientation, so pay attention.


I don't think they will be that bad. The fluid was in good shape. Looked like it just came out of the bottle, Smelled OK too. Just wondering if I should buy steels. They're probably OK but hate to need and not have. The kit I found on eBay is $225 with steels and $190 L/S. So do I pay $35 more for something I may not need? Maybe I should tear it down this week end and see......
I'll keep in mind about the emery cloth, but I can't see how it would reduce endplay. But this is all new to me so I'm keeping an open mind. Thanks for all the tips you can think of. lol
 
I would let the price of the steels help me decide whether to replace or not. I have burnished some steels in clutch packs and drums before reusing them.
 
I don't think they will be that bad. The fluid was in good shape. Looked like it just came out of the bottle, Smelled OK too. Just wondering if I should buy steels. They're probably OK but hate to need and not have. The kit I found on eBay is $225 with steels and $190 L/S. So do I pay $35 more for something I may not need? Maybe I should tear it down this week end and see......
I'll keep in mind about the emery cloth, but I can't see how it would reduce endplay. But this is all new to me so I'm keeping an open mind. Thanks for all the tips you can think of. lol
I should have been more specific. I clean the face of the driven and static parts in the pump and that can reduce the end gap in the pump by allowing the plate to gear clearance to be reduced, not the main shaft end play. A pressure reading prior to removal of the tranny would have told you a lot about the pumps condition, but it's very similar to an oil pump in design. The tighter it is, the more pressure it will typically be able to produce. If your tranny is a decent functioning part you likely are ok with the pump and the steels. Also, I earlier said that the bushings should be ok, I would say to look at the rear bearing in the tail shaft where the drive shaft yoke is and the front one in the pump for the converter. They can allow seals to fail if over worn. If the tranny leaked at either location, pay close attention to them. I think you should tear it down and see what everything looks like prior to ordering parts. Look at any shims or related friction parts related to shaft end play as they are available in different sizes and usually have to be purchased In addition to the kit. Just organize a place to layout your parts and organize them is sets by each clutch pack in the order they were removed so reassembly will go smooth. Remember, there is a correct orientation for some parts, so try not to invert them. A lot of time all is required are the forward clutches and seals. A lot of tranny shops only replace the actual worn parts, a lot of them reuse the bands, steels, etc...not an entire rebuild. You will have to be the judge as to what you are comfortable with. If the steels are flat and not discolored from heat, or glazed, they should be fine. Look at the mating clutch plates as you inspect for clues. You may want to locate (rent or borrow) a clutch pack compressor to aid with this chore, they can be a bit difficult without one.
 
I've been considering to my th350 myself as well. Built lots of engines but never touched a auto tranny. Is it doable for a guy who's mechanicly inclined with a good book and a few videos? I would love to do it just for my own satisfaction. Any specialty tools needed?
Very doable, There are some sort of special tools. If you have been wrenching for a while, you probably have most of what you need. Internal clip ring pliers are pretty much required and some picks. You can do it without any special tools, but there are definite advantages to acquiring a few. I would recommend watching some you tube and related video's, there are some good ones from what I've seen. I wish they had them when I was trying to figure stuff out!
 
I wish I could walk out to a barn and look at a couple of th-350's lol. I am still looking for one.
Be careful what you wish for, It becomes a sickness! lol You end up hanging on to stuff forever and never use or need it until a week after you throw it out! Don't even think about moving. I had a shop for over 20 years before we bought the farm and moving was miserable. I am still looking for stuff I used to have and likely threw out when packing...
 
I would be happy with a rebuild able core. For some reason I am having trouble finding one in my neck of the woods. I had one a few years ago but gave it to a friend so he could finish his hot rod.
 
I want my th350 to be dependable. Nothing worse than being stuck on the side of the road. I don't want a tranny that marks its territory. I want it to shift crisp but not enough to get whiplash. I won't be racing it but I may spin the tires on occasion. :) A stock transmission with a shift kit would make me happy. I hope that's what you meant when you asked what I wanted in a transmission.
I'm ready to get started with my teardown. transmission 2.jpg transmission 1.jpg transmission 4.jpg transmission 3.jpg
Got my home made transmission holder, a table for parts, and a chair for my many breaks. Got a book, and a DVD. Tap tap tap, stretch the neck, and here we go!
 
I want my th350 to be dependable. Nothing worse than being stuck on the side of the road. I don't want a tranny that marks its territory. I want it to shift crisp but not enough to get whiplash. I won't be racing it but I may spin the tires on occasion. :) A stock transmission with a shift kit would make me happy. I hope that's what you meant when you asked what I wanted in a transmission.
I'm ready to get started with my teardown. View attachment 10651 View attachment 10652 View attachment 10653 View attachment 10654
Got my home made transmission holder, a table for parts, and a chair for my many breaks. Got a book, and a DVD. Tap tap tap, stretch the neck, and here we go!
That's a cool jig you built there! It sure beets wrestling it around on the bench, which is how I usually do it. Let me know how it works out when you get to the installing the clutch pack phase. It looks like it will do well as long as it holds the position.
 
I wish I could walk out to a barn and look at a couple of th-350's lol. I am still looking for one.
Too bad we are so far apart, I could set you up. Shipping would be more that it's worth. The bone yards are probably pretty lean on them, they have been out of production since the 80's. Swap meets or Craigslist type classified adds are your best bet.
 

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