Turning radius

[Satori]

It doens't look like this car will turn very sharp. This is full turn. You can see that the tie rod hits the nuts for the spring shackles. Now that I look at it I guess I should reverse the shackles so the nuts face forward. That should help some, but I think it still won't turn very far. Is it normal for these to not turn very sharp? Can I reverse the steering arms and put the tie rod out front instead of through the radius rods?

 

[putz]

No buckets don't turn very sharp But your suspension is hanging free when sitting on ground you should have clearance. Give me 40 acres and I will turn this around.

 

[Satori]

No buckets don't turn very sharp But your suspension is hanging free when sitting on ground you should have clearance. Give me 40 acres and I will turn this around.

Ah. I was wondering what difference it'll make once it's on the ground with the weight of the motor. Is it acceptable to put the tie rod out front?

 

[terrymac]

It will change your ackerman angle. If you were to draw a line through the center of the kingpin and through the center of the tie rod end it should project through the center of the rear diff. The purpose of this angle is to provide toe out in turns. When the car is turning the wheels are travelling in different raduis. This not being correct will affect tire wear and handling in the corners. How much on a 1500 lb car I'm not really sure. I have noticed that some of the steering arms on the market do not take this into account and are simply parallel to the wheel centerline.

 

[Satori]

Ah okay, thanks.

 

[putz]

Also if tierod was out front and you ever bumped into something even slow time for new parts and alignment.

 

[Duke]

I put mine with the shackle bolt heads were toward the back, and the nuts in front. I cut the bolt off even with the nut to give clearance between the shackle and axle.

 

[Ted Brown]

Put the tie rod on the top of the spindle, keep to the back side of axle where it belongs.. that axle is soo narrow, no wonder there is no turning to speak of, if it went far enough to turn like it should, the tires will hit the radius rods, still no turning worth a darn, may have to use rims that kick the tires out board farther, fine on light weight cars, no strain on bearings to speak of... Good luck with your build, but like I suggested earlier, your chassis needs to be on the wheels on the ground to see and feel what is really happening, with everything... PS, you can add a piece of card board to see where the tire hits things while testing on bare wheels if you like... :lol:

 

[RexRod]

Poor turning radius? No problem. That's what that awesome engine you bought is for . Of course, your car is much nicer than this one:

[ame="[media=youtube]ARVFThX8niM[/media]"]YouTube - Rat Rod Donut[/ame]

 

[Satori]

Lol RexRod, maybe I should have ordered narrower back tires!

 

[just for fun]

Our club (in Tucson) had eight buckets! It was easy to spot the ones that did not have the ackerman right. The outside tire in the turn would start to jump sidways in a tight turn, as in slow speed parking lot turn. The only way to stop it was to put less turn in the steering wheel! That's not right+ it was really hard on the ones running wire wheels!

 

[AZCOWBO]

Satori,

Am I seeing double or do you have dual rotors up front. Also, what kind of calipers are those?

 

[Hotrod46]

Ah, the old steer it with your right foot trick!!!:lol:

Mike

 

[spooky]

My T turns fine. I cut off the end hole on the double tie rod arm and drilled another one on the opposite side of the hole for the tie rod. I used the original tie rod hole for the drag link. I had to move the hole on the other arm forward to match up. It turns almost as sharp as my wifes Escort. If you tried this you would hit the shackles even sooner. My spring is mounted in front of the axle giving me lots of room. Too late for your setup but this might be of use to folks that haven't got this far yet.

 

[rcruse]

Ted, Are you saying that wider front axles are available? The distance between the king pins and the radius rod mounts could be increased. Would'nt this build in a tighter turning radius? The front tires could turn more before hitting the radius rods. If wider axles are available that would be the ticket. What am I missing here?

 

[Ted Brown]

The problem with the spring in front of the axle is, back to the ride thing... leverage, the spring needs to be back as far as you can get it, and still keep the look you want.. That is why I came up with the top steering arms years ago, solves all those steering problems... Happy building..

 

[dovehunter79]

YouTube - Rat Rod Donut

This guy is driving on the wrong side of the car, he's in the passenger seat!

 

[Ted Brown]

Ted, Are you saying that wider front axles are available? The distance between the king pins and the radius rod mounts could be increased. Would'nt this build in a tighter turning radius? The front tires could turn more before hitting the radius rods. If wider axles are available that would be the ticket. What am I missing here?

You are not missing anything here, it sounds like to me, you explained it totally right, why other Companies do not make wider axles is beyond me.. Mine are 54" boss to boss, solves those nasty steering problems... Ask your favorite T Bucket fab guy to make you a wider axle, mine were the same price as the shorter ones were... But that is just me here.. Happy Building...

 

[Youngster]

The axles where made originally as a cost effective dropped axle for replacement on full fender cars. As such they where made to stock width specs. Both places I have bought tube axels from will make them to your specs. Just ask.

Ron

 

[Satori]

Satori,

Am I seeing double or do you have dual rotors up front. Also, what kind of calipers are those?

Not dual rotors. Just the surfaces are separated by an air gap of sorts. The calipers are just regular GM I guess. It's what Spirit sent me.