welding on the pumpkin

[Francis Blake]

I finally got wheels under my project now I need to make something to keep the rear end centered. I don't have enough room for a panhard rod so a sliding wishbone is the answer. I need someway to hold this to the pumpkin can I weld to the top of the rearend without messing it up? :suicide: :hi:

 

[putz]

This is a process for welding axle tubes in but alot of prep and professional welding ability in my book.Which is probably the same as welding a bracket on.
diff welding
Hope this helps

 

[Francis Blake]

Thanks Putz I have my radius rod brackets welded on and they look real good, but this looks to be over my head so I will try to come up with something else. :suicide:

 

[LKE]

How do you not have room for a panhard bar ? its a peice of 7/8" od tube ? Can you post some good pics of what you are working on ? maybe someone could offer some advice for an easy solution.

 

[Francis Blake]

I have a gas tank that I wanted to use but it's just too big so with a different tank I will have plenty of room. I get carried away with cheeeep sometimes.

 

[Baby Huey]

I have a gas tank that I wanted to use but it's just too big so with a different tank I will have plenty of room. I get carried away with cheeeep sometimes.

Ya know there are ways to actually CLAMP the brackets to the axle tube, if you don't want to weld.
You don't say what type axle housing you are using ? If it's Ford ,usually you can bolt the axle bracket to the pinion bearing support flange.. "BH"

 

[Ma_n_Pa T]

I have a gas tank that I wanted to use but it's just too big so with a different tank I will have plenty of room. I get carried away with cheeeep sometimes.

You might want to try this setup, gives you additional clearance for tight areas

http://www.tsmmfg.com/Watts_Linkage.htm

high priced but they work good.
Hope that helps,
Jerry

 

[Hotrod46]

If you don't want to weld on the cast portion on the rearend (I'm assuming that you have an open back rearend), then you could use a trick that the mini-truck guys came up with.

A plate is cut out that sandwiches between the center section and the rear cover of the rearend. The locating links attach to this plate.

Here a link to a pic.

http://www.suicidedo...ivot-3-link-kit

Mike

 

[Francis Blake]

Thanks for the ideas guys that watts link looks like it could be just the ticket

 

[Screaming Metal]

Yea FB, you can weld on the pumpkin, but the idea of bolting a piece makes me smile...if you bend your bracket, you can always take it off and repair it!

 

[Francis Blake]

I agree the bolt on brackets are a better idea when you can use them. I would like to see someone manufacture some type of bolt on rear radius rod brackets so they don't have to be welded on the axle tube.

 

[kesteb]

You might want to try this setup, gives you additional clearance for tight areas

http://www.tsmmfg.com/Watts_Linkage.htm

high priced but they work good.
Hope that helps,
Jerry

I don't think that is technically a "Watts" linkage. A Watts linkage is a bell crank with arms going to the frame. I wonder how this works? Where are the pivot points? It sorta looks like a Mumford linkage, but that is two bellcranks with an intermediate connection bar between the bellcranks.

To me it looks like a set of panhard bars that meet in the middle.

 

[Wild Mango]

I don't think that is technically a "Watts" linkage. A Watts linkage is a bell crank with arms going to the frame. I wonder how this works? Where are the pivot points? It sorta looks like a Mumford linkage, but that is two bellcranks with an intermediate connection bar between the bellcranks.

To me it looks like a set of panhard bars that meet in the middle.

A traditional Watts link has the bellcrank part on the axle with the rods on the chassis but it can go the other way round, the bellcrank on the chassis and the rods outer ends on the axle housing. This also makes most of the linkage weight sprung, which is a step in the right direction. With a narrow chassis like a bucket, this is often a better way to do it, if you really must have a watts.

 

[kesteb]

A traditional Watts link has the bellcrank part on the axle with the rods on the chassis but it can go the other way round, the bellcrank on the chassis and the rods outer ends on the axle housing. This also makes most of the linkage weight sprung, which is a step in the right direction. With a narrow chassis like a bucket, this is often a better way to do it, if you really must have a watts.

Not my point, A traditional Watts linkage has a single pivot point on a bellcrank with fixed arms to stationary positions. When the chassis moves in relation to the axle, it pivots on that bellcrank, any slack is taken up within that movement. This is in contrast to a Panhard bar which pivots at the fixed positions, which slightly moves the chassis to one side as compared to the axle.

I don't see how that pivoting is accomplished with the TSM design. There is two bellcranks. Each with a fixed arms to stationary positions. Those arms are parallel and on the same plane to each other. How are the opposite ends of the bellcrank connected? What keeps the axle centered? The diagram does not show nor explain how this works.

 

[Youngster]

Back to your original question Francis ... Can you set it up so the single mount is on the frame??

Ron

 

[Francis Blake]

Yes I made some changes in my design so I have more room for a pan hard rod. Now all I need is some weather I can work in, my garage is not big enough to do a lot without moving some things outside. About six inches of snow in my driveway.