What is a 350 SBC block worth?
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ellis8500
Member
One can buy running motors all day long for as low as $100 on Craig's List with lots of them in the $200 range. Since you said it needs a new crank, only someone who plans to do a rotating assembly enhancement would be likely to want the engine. Put it on Craig's list for $200 and see what happens. I bought a running Ford 302 for $200 last year.
Chief-T
Member
That 010 high nickle block is very desirable. Should bring above avg $.
akitagandy
Member
In MS they go for $100,$150 and $400 with all the machine work done from Lunati. I have to pick one up this weekend for a $100 complete
Keeper
Active Member
Not all 3970010 blocks are "High nickle" blocks. Seems everyone that has a 10 block has one. Look for a 010 or an 020 either under the timing cover, or at the end of the block. Up here they seem to list for anywhere from $150-$350 depending on condition.
Mike
Well-Known Member
To put the 3970010 block casting myth to bed, once and for all -
3970010 means the block is a large journal 4.000" bore block. PERIOD. Some of those castings were machined to accept four bolt main caps, some were not. PERIOD. There is nothing magic about casting number 3970010. Nothing! It could have been a large journal 327 block, a large journal 302 block or a 350 block. It's a large journal, 4.000" bore block; nothing more and nothing less. If you want to know whether or not it is a 4 bolt main block, take the pan off.
Now, to address the tin/nickel content issue -
You will never discover the tin or nickel content of the block's pour by looking at the number cast into the rear of the block.
If you remove the timing cover and look directly above the front main web, you may see 010 cast into the block. This number indicates the pour was done with 10% nickel and very negligible tin content. If you see 020, then the pour was 20% nickel and little to no tin. If you see 010 / 020, then the block was poured with 10% tin and 20 nickel. And this is the desirable block.
However, if I had a 010/020 block with core shift, I would toss it for a 010 block with no core shift. No matter if I was building a stock motor or a race motor. The strongest block in the world is useless if it has thin cylinder walls.
People place far too much importance on picayune things like 4 bolt mains and nickel content. The last A/ED motor we ran was a simple 2 bolt main block. It was not converted to 4 bolt caps. We used it because the 2 bolt block was significantly lighter. And then we would set the block in a mill and mill everything off we could. Oil filter mounting pad? Gone. Fuel pump mounting pad? Gone. Motor mount bolt bosses? Gone. High lips around the freeze plugs? Gone. That motor was a record-holder and if it could survive that kind of compression and RPM abuse with 2 bolt caps, I'm fairly certain the small-block you're building to cruise with will probably be OK, too. Naturally, if you're building your motor to have 16:1+ compression ratio and you plan to shift it at 9,500, then we're dealing with a horse of a different color.
OK, everyone repeat after me - 3970010 means large journal, 4.000" bore and nothing else. Now write that 100 times and tape it to your bathroom mirror.
3970010 means the block is a large journal 4.000" bore block. PERIOD. Some of those castings were machined to accept four bolt main caps, some were not. PERIOD. There is nothing magic about casting number 3970010. Nothing! It could have been a large journal 327 block, a large journal 302 block or a 350 block. It's a large journal, 4.000" bore block; nothing more and nothing less. If you want to know whether or not it is a 4 bolt main block, take the pan off.
Now, to address the tin/nickel content issue -
You will never discover the tin or nickel content of the block's pour by looking at the number cast into the rear of the block.
If you remove the timing cover and look directly above the front main web, you may see 010 cast into the block. This number indicates the pour was done with 10% nickel and very negligible tin content. If you see 020, then the pour was 20% nickel and little to no tin. If you see 010 / 020, then the block was poured with 10% tin and 20 nickel. And this is the desirable block.
However, if I had a 010/020 block with core shift, I would toss it for a 010 block with no core shift. No matter if I was building a stock motor or a race motor. The strongest block in the world is useless if it has thin cylinder walls.
People place far too much importance on picayune things like 4 bolt mains and nickel content. The last A/ED motor we ran was a simple 2 bolt main block. It was not converted to 4 bolt caps. We used it because the 2 bolt block was significantly lighter. And then we would set the block in a mill and mill everything off we could. Oil filter mounting pad? Gone. Fuel pump mounting pad? Gone. Motor mount bolt bosses? Gone. High lips around the freeze plugs? Gone. That motor was a record-holder and if it could survive that kind of compression and RPM abuse with 2 bolt caps, I'm fairly certain the small-block you're building to cruise with will probably be OK, too. Naturally, if you're building your motor to have 16:1+ compression ratio and you plan to shift it at 9,500, then we're dealing with a horse of a different color.
OK, everyone repeat after me - 3970010 means large journal, 4.000" bore and nothing else. Now write that 100 times and tape it to your bathroom mirror.
Mike
Well-Known Member
To be honest, I'm still not sure what it is you're offering for sale here.
The topic title is asking what a 350 SBC block is worth. Then your original post says -
You make it sound as if you are selling more than a block, because you mention the crank and refer to it as a 'good motor'.
???
Are you selling a block, a short block, a complete engine, or...?? AZ is a bit of a reach for me personally, but if I were interested, I would like to know just how badly the crank snout is hurt and exactly how it was hurt. What are the pour numbers, located under the timing cover? if it has a crank, would it be a cast crank or a steel crank? If it is a complete engine, what cylinder head castings are on it?
You may have a desirable piece for sale. Or, you may have just another run-of-the-mill 350 for sale. The price would vary accordingly. :nod:
I was just trying to get a feel if it was worth my time to try and sell what I have. I will have to look at the casting numbers on everything. It is a complete motor. Heads are off, oil pan is off, but I have them, along with intake and carb. I am not sure if it is a cast or steel crank, looks like steel. The only issue with it is the end of the crank has been beaten on where the balancer goes. It may be able to be used as-is with some grinding, filing and tapping.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Mike, ole buddy ole pal, kinda hard on em, ain't ya?.....(Just kidding)...A kid that works here at the shop got all glassy eyed, he way teelling me about this motor he was thinking of getting, I grinned and told him to pull the heads and bring it in the shop, sonic test on the walls....core shift enough to crack open @ .040 over...he got very discouraged....I just showed him your post....he's like 'But, But, but....'
Someone had made monster of that #....I wish someone would shot it and put it out of my misery!
:dhb: :dhb:
Mike
Well-Known Member
If it turns out you have a steel crank, then you've got a much better piece than a ten-cent cast crank. Things like that make a big difference in the money you can get.
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