what spindle and brake for tbucket build?

Getting ready to start attaching my axles to my frame and im a little lost on some parts.

So i have a 8" rear end im using. Getting ready to attach brackets for the wishbones and coil over shocks. I also bought a track bar for the rear end but I dont understand how it works with this axle. It just seems to long. Bought the one off speedway and it seems like Id have to move the axle over to get it to work. Any thoughts or explination for this?

Universal Bolt-On Panhard Track Bars for Ford 8/9-Inch Rear Axles

My other question is with spindles and rotors. Im going to be using the 1928-1948 ford forged spindles. But what brake rotor setup do you use? Do you like the GM setup? Mustand II setup? Also which on works best with the 8" rear end and ford front spindles.

Speedway 1928-1948 Ford Forged Spindles w/ King Pins

 

I am using GM Metric front calipers and the rotors are from speedway they are I think 11 inch rotors drilled with a ford bolt pattern to match my ford 8.8 inch rear.

 

So would I have to use the one for ford spindles or the chevy? Im going to be using the ford spindle of the car. But I read somewhere that you can use the chevy ones, just have to change out the bearing races with the proper ones.

Brake Kit: 1969-77 GM Caliper to Early Ford Spindles, Chevy B-P

Front Disc Brake Kit, GM Mid-size to 1949-54 Chevy Spindle, 5 on 4-3/4

 

Do you have any pictures of your rearend with the trackbar? I just cant figure out how the one I have is suppose to work with my 8" axle. It just seems way to long but its only 20"

 

You are gonna use Ford spindles so therefore you need to use the rotors and brackets that fit the Ford spindles. Why would you even consider that you might possibly be able to use the Chevy stuff when the kit for Ford spindles is right there?

The Panhard bar issue comes down to having a bar style that fits your rear axle but is meant for a frame that is much wider than a T bucket frame. Most likely you will need to fabricate an axle bracket that welds to the axle beyond the center section of the rearend and allow the panhard bar to attach to the inside or bottom of the opposite frame rail. Just shortening the bar may seem like an obvious thing to do but they need to be reasonably long to work properly. None of this is rocket science but it can get very confusing if you are just learning build procedures. It's great to build from the ground up...but sometimes its ultimately cheaper and less stressful just to buy a fully built chassis assembly from a reputable supplier.

 

This is the kit you need if your going with ford 4.5 bolt pattern that matches your rear axle.
"
Brake Kit 1969-77 GM Caliper to Early Ford Spindle, Ford B-P



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Hackerbuilt, said it best. A T Frame is too narrow to mount a panhard bar correctly so like he said add an axle bracket and go from there to the inner frame rail on the opposite side. The bar you selected bolts on to the center chunk of the axle and then to the frame. This would work if your frame was a lot wider so your fix is to find a panhard bracket that welds to the axle housing or depending how wide your diff is they have brackets that bolt to the backing plate bolts and then to the frame..

 

PotvinGuy, That front end looks interesting. What kind of rack is that you are using for steering. Also the panhard is hard to spot in that photo got any details?

 

Well I actually inherited this whole car basically from my grandpa and my dad when they passed away.
Basically what I got from them was the frame (not built) that I have fabricated up now. an Almost complete front axle setup minus a few parts. All 4 radius arms, which I think are refered to as wishbones? they all have 2 rods on them.
And the complete fiberglass body. I have since then aquired a 8" rearend. Purchased coil overs, coil brackets and radius arm brackets for the axle last week. Getting ready to purchase all the rotors and brake setup this week. Trying to get the complete suspension done and ready for the motor that my friend is bringing down to me in a month.

So im going to include the link for the panhard arm that I purchased from speedway. Do you think I can still use this? just possible make a weld-on bracket to go on the axle?

Universal Bolt-On Panhard Track Bars for Ford 8/9-Inch Rear Axles

 

ah okay perfect. Thank you for that advice. Im have an 8" rear end that Im using on the project. Think if I made a bracket to weld to the axle itsself, not the pumpkin, would work fine? Any advice, links, info on how high the bracket needs to be? Or should it just be enough that it wouldn't hit the pumpkin when the suspension moves?

 

Thats a very sharp setup there. Hopefully I didnt confuse anyone but the panhard arm im currently trying to get setup is for the rear axle. Im attaching a few pictures of the front suspension I currently have. Ignore the spindle. I only found one in my grandpa's stuff so im buying new ones for the axle. Maybe you guys can tell me exactly what Im missing so I can get it purchased this weekend? Any advice would be great. Obvouisly Im new at building cars but Im not new to wrenching and building in general.

 

Do you guys think Pete and Jakes have better parts or speedway? I ask cause I only live like 30 minutes from pete and jakes

 

Also how do I use these lower shock mounts on my axle setup? They were in the parts the i got from my grandpa and with the axle and batwings that he had, I dont see how these mounts can work. They look like the batwing is in the way.

 

The radius rods you have are actually called hairpins, and if set up properly should work well with a light weight strait axle car like a T-bucket. When you get ready to do the final adjustment, after the drivetrain and body are in place and the drive height established with the full vehicle weight on the suspension, you'll adjust the kingpin angle using the clevises on the radius rods to achieve a 7-9 degree layback for proper handling. You've got the makings of a really cool T-bucket there. Congratulations!

 

Front Suspension for Traditional Hot Rods

 

I'm running a pinion mount with a j-bar. It worked out best for me. I don't expect much travel in the rear suspension. I did however mount both ends in double shear.



You choices are a pinion mount...


A straight bar with a tall mounting bracket...


Or a J-bar with a shorter mount.



The most important thing is that it's travel is parallel to the rear end at ride height. Since the movement on a panhard is an arc, keeping it level gives it vertical motion as much as possible. So the longer the better. A big arc as opposed to a short arc.


Try to avoid this. It'll create binding and side movement.

 

So ive got to ask but should the panhard arm put put on after you set the drivetrain? I feel like the weight should all be on the car already so you can set the panhard arm level to the axle.

 

Yes. Level at final ride height.

You can guesstimate your final ride height close enough and tack weld some simple brackets until you get to that final point too. These cars don't have much travel because they're so light. Especially with coilovers.

I just cringe when I see a panhard bar set at a 30° angle. That means the rear end and tires are shifting to the side 2" as they're moving up and down.