What welder for a beginner?
- Thread starter PotvinGuy
- Start date
Keeper
Active Member
The biggest one you can afford. You will regret buying a small one only to find out it will not do what you need it to.
I ended up with the Lincoln 180c. It was a toss up between the Lincoln 180, Hobart 210, Miller 211. Lincoln won because its what most places up here carry.
You have 220 available?
I ended up with the Lincoln 180c. It was a toss up between the Lincoln 180, Hobart 210, Miller 211. Lincoln won because its what most places up here carry.
You have 220 available?
Don'tCallMeJimmie
Member
I got a refurb Hobart 140 through Northern Tool for not much more than their house brand a couple years ago. I'd bet they still have them or the 180.
Go big if you can. Besides you'll never say you wish you had less current.
Go big if you can. Besides you'll never say you wish you had less current.
mikeyboist
New Member
I have a Lincoln 180c that is awesome but if you want a cheaper 220 welder check out Eastwood.com. They have a pretty good looking welder, $299 for a 110v and $499 for a 220v and the 220v machine comes with a spool gun at that price. Benefit of Eastwood over a hobart or others is that it has an infinite voltage setting unlike the others with the tapped voltage so you could really dial in a Eastwood. My reasoning for going with the Lincoln is basically your arc start, that is the big difference in a quality welder.
Just my $.02
Just my $.02
MIG is easier to learn than TIG, IMHO. It all depends on what you want to weld though. Taking a class is the best way to learn, the basics. Practice is the key to good welds. As far as 1/4" plate, minimum of a 180 amp machine. My MIG is a Miller 210, 220 volt and hookups for a spoolgun. :bubble:
2old2fast
Active Member
I'd reccomend at least a 180 for welding on car stuff. I have an older century 140 w/gas that's fine for up to 3/16" but your pushing it on 1/4" ,even though it's rated for up to 1/4" gas is argon /co2 mix for steel or straight argon gives you aluminum capability also. any welding supply house can fix you w/ tank of choice. they ain't cheap! hope this helps . dave
I've got a Hobart 185 and it has done everything I've asked of it. The consumables are available at Fleet Farm, Tractor Supply amoung others. If or when you get your welder, Give me a call. Pretty sure I can have you running good welds after a Sat. of tutoring. On second thought, we could do that before you get your welder.
Ron
507-363-6497
Ron
507-363-6497
benT
Active Member
Corely is right...stick with a Miller, Lincoln, Esab, or Hobart... avoid the temptation of the cheap imports. The advise of buying as big as you can afford is true too. We started with a smaller Hobart MIG...it worked well, but it was tougher welding the heavier metals. We sold it off and bought a Miller 252. It can weld damn near anything. If we need to weld thicker, we just roll out the ancient Lincoln Buzz Box!
putz
Member
I wpuld say lincoln or miller the cables are longer and easier to deal with. they also have finer adjustment for the wire speed. This guy has some really good welding classes. I would suggest if learning get a autoshield helmet changes with each flash of weld.welding videos link
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fordsbyjay
Active Member
I have a Century brand 250 unit. It is alright but you get what you pay for when you buy a product like a Miller. They weld nicer and are more smooth doing it. It is kinda hard to explain but buy the best you can afford. I started with a small 110v machine but if you plan on doing any kind of frame work you need to step up to at least a 220v 180 IMHO. Mig is quite easy to learn and there are plenty of videos on youtube to help you get started.
Francis Blake
Active Member
Whatever you do do not get a flux core welder. I have one and it makes a mess so I most often use my Lincoln stick welder.
Hotrod46
Member
+1 on what Gerry said.
Be very careful with MIG because it's very easy to lay down a bead that looks good, but that doesn't have much penetration. A good welding course will teach you how to tell the difference between a good weld and a bad one.
Mike
Blacksmith54
New Member
I started out on Stick welding in the sixty's moved to a Millermatic 35 in 1982 and have never looked back I agree with get as large as you can afford while I have newer units sense I still use my 35 most and is the one I have at my house while it is a 180 amp unit it really is around 160 I believe. I prefer Miller Thermal Dynamics Hobart and Linde in that order and while I have been forced to use Lincoln welders I normally prefer Miller first. Main reason is I learned how to weld on Millers so they tend to be my preference. As it is easier to weld with a larger unit as they are more forgiving the little one take a more experienced welder to get the same out of them :guard:
putz
Member
I have a little tip if you are learning when you get your fisrt burn through because to much heat. Tacking the same piece but make sure looking through the helmet in dark mode all orange is gone then you gan hit it lightly again let orange go away again then tack again .This process is if not using flux.Flux should be cleaned off before laying another layer on.JMO
Gerry
Well-Known Member
heres another tip.
Take 2 bits of steel, set them at 90* and run a fillet up them. Let them cool down on their own and then set one side in a vice and use some grips to work the other bit forwards and backwards until it breaks.
Now take a look at the weld thats given up and it will give you a clue to penetration and how strong the weld was. Also if the weld gives up on the first movement... its not a weld.
gerry,
Take 2 bits of steel, set them at 90* and run a fillet up them. Let them cool down on their own and then set one side in a vice and use some grips to work the other bit forwards and backwards until it breaks.
Now take a look at the weld thats given up and it will give you a clue to penetration and how strong the weld was. Also if the weld gives up on the first movement... its not a weld.
gerry,
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