Wilwood Master Cylinders

[CadT]

Hi! I hope someone can help me. My T came with Wilwood Dual masster cylinders. Of course I had to disassemble the car to make it like I wanted it. As I reassemble it, I am wandering about adjusting those dual master cylinders. I assume that, just as on other cars you want the rear brakes to engage first, but is there a method for getting this right or will I just have to use trial and error? Any comments or instructions are appreciated. Thanks in advance. Hershey Bar

 

[putz]

Can you post pics of master setup? Do you have a balance bar?

 

[GAB]

Here is a replay of an earlier post:

Here is a little more detailed view of how the balance bar works. The sleeve that is welded to the pedal contains a spherical bearing (heim joint without the threaded portion) that is free to move along the bore of the tube. This has a shaft that is threaded on each end and has 2 grooves that capture the bearing on each side with E-clips or snap rings. The clevis pins are threaded internally and all threads are right hand. The shaft has a screwdriver slot in the end for turning the shaft and making the spherical bearing move left or right. There is a given amount of force on the ball that is created by the input on the pedal arm. The shaft acts as a lever and distributes the amount of input force on the two master cylinders according to the lengths of the shaft segments. Leverage, as Ted says, is what it's all about.

 

[CadT]

GAB, I don't have any pics, but that is exactly the setup that I have. Each side can be adjusted seperately, so I assume the side for the rear brakes should be set to come in a little before the front brakes, be how much. Or should they be set the same for both cylinders. Also, I didn;t mention that this is a four wheel disc setup. Thanks Guys, Hershey Bar

 

[railroad]

You can get a better feel or visual for what your brakes are doing on a grassy surface. Light gravel will do also, just a little dirtier. You may want the rear to come on first, but the front needs to do most of the stopping. Brake size will have something to do with that, rears are generally smaller. Summit Racing sells a brake pressure gauge if you really want to see what kind of comparative pressures you are putting out. It is less than $50, if I remember correctly.

 

[Old Rotor Flap]

I've incorporated a Wilwood Balance Bar. I found it on eBay and I should have bought two of them because the price was right up my alley.... cheap, though I don't recall what it was.

The link is a simple Google search. You might do better.

http://www.google.com/products/cata...a=X&ei=_TaJTcrHGfKM0QHigdXwDQ&ved=0CEcQ8wIwBA#

I'd like to tell youy how it works, but the car is still a dream that's coming together rather slowly.