1930 chevy rear end?
- Thread starter Brian Wilson
- Start date
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Well Brain, anything can be done, thats what machine shops and welding shops are for. You have a enclosed driveshaft on that rear end. to use it with a bucket, or anything with a modern transmission, your gonna have to convert to a open. There are kits for this, but some machining is envolved, for the oil seal. Also, the early rears reaally don't have the axle bearings and axle diameter for them to be bulletproof behind a modern motor/trans setup. And the brakes are probably small, too
If I were you, I'd run a S-10 rear, your gonna have to shorten that driveshaft anyway, the old enclosed will take alot of work. It would be alot faster and cheaper with the S-10, less work involved.
On the enclosed, you'll have to cut the outter tube, then shorten then shorten the driveshaft to match, then find gears, then worry about your brakes, and this is with running a trans that allows for the enclosed driveshaft. Sell it or trade it to a restorer....JM2CW....
If I were you, I'd run a S-10 rear, your gonna have to shorten that driveshaft anyway, the old enclosed will take alot of work. It would be alot faster and cheaper with the S-10, less work involved.
On the enclosed, you'll have to cut the outter tube, then shorten then shorten the driveshaft to match, then find gears, then worry about your brakes, and this is with running a trans that allows for the enclosed driveshaft. Sell it or trade it to a restorer....JM2CW....
Screaming Metal
Active Member
George is right, see those rods running inboard on each side....those are for the linkage or cables. Anyway....
Since you have that Dart drivetrain, you could use that rear if the driveshaft is centered with the rear. The Darts came with the 8 3/4 ringgear too, which would stand up to a pretty stout 360.
If its offset way to one side, call around and put some feelers out, that 30' rear and that Dart rear for trade for a good usable S-10 rear. You wouldn't be out any money, you'll want a driveshaft with it so you'll have a rear yoke. Keep the driveshaft that is for the dart....and all they'll have to do is cut the tube down.
A good S-10 from a bone yard will be between $100-$150 probably. You can get your money back out of those 2 easily. There's usually someone wanting those rears you have. If nothing else, go over to the HAMB boards and run it for sale or trade, if your in Ca., you'll probably have a few nibbles before the week is out....
Since you have that Dart drivetrain, you could use that rear if the driveshaft is centered with the rear. The Darts came with the 8 3/4 ringgear too, which would stand up to a pretty stout 360.
If its offset way to one side, call around and put some feelers out, that 30' rear and that Dart rear for trade for a good usable S-10 rear. You wouldn't be out any money, you'll want a driveshaft with it so you'll have a rear yoke. Keep the driveshaft that is for the dart....and all they'll have to do is cut the tube down.
A good S-10 from a bone yard will be between $100-$150 probably. You can get your money back out of those 2 easily. There's usually someone wanting those rears you have. If nothing else, go over to the HAMB boards and run it for sale or trade, if your in Ca., you'll probably have a few nibbles before the week is out....
Screaming Metal
Active Member
While we're at it, once you get a rear you can use,need to find out what trans you have, a 904, 727, etc....Even though its a I-6, your not gonna be pushing any weight....so its gonna run like a sportscar. You'll want a shiftkit, or a valvebody, possibly a torque converter. And some gears for the rear, Big Meats out back. Then you'll want 3x2's on the intake, headers and a cam....(Just Kiddin')
However you want to build your car, just remember, take your time and match your parts. Theres alot of articles, and books. Youngsters has alot of good info, plus all our members here....
However you want to build your car, just remember, take your time and match your parts. Theres alot of articles, and books. Youngsters has alot of good info, plus all our members here....
Brian Wilson
New Member
Thank you everyone! I was kind of thinking the same thing. the housing just looks real cool. my brother pretty much talked me out of it yesterday morning. I have found a couple S-10 rear ends. Metal, you may have been kidding but almost everything you stated is on the "to do" list. the go fast goodies for the slant 6 are a must and "All Trans." is right here in the Burgh. I have made the chassis my main goal for the next few months.
The Toyota rear end is available in 3 different widths (well Australian ones anyhow). Early, up to 1986 are fairly narrow, 56ish" I think, '86 to '95 are around 58.5" wide (wheel flange to wheel flange) and the later ones wider again. Once again, that is for the Australian ones, best check the local ones. The diffs themselves are super tough with big axles, fine splines and a 8.75" crown wheel that will take a heap of punishment. They are a drop in centre, so changing ratio's is easy as well.
Sorry about that previous post , finger slipped.
, Mr Wilson I agree with most of the others. Sell it to a restorer, and put the money towards an S10 or similar. Unless you have access to a cheap machine shop etc I think it would be a lot of time and money for no large reward.
And Yes, Toyota Hi-Lux rear ends are plentiful and take tons of abuse . The axles will fit right in to a 12 bolt Chev centre section. which is a popular modification down under to get a narrow 12 bolt, (using the entire Toyota housing ends as well getting rid of that problematic roller axle bearing they have at the same time) .
, Mr Wilson I agree with most of the others. Sell it to a restorer, and put the money towards an S10 or similar. Unless you have access to a cheap machine shop etc I think it would be a lot of time and money for no large reward.
And Yes, Toyota Hi-Lux rear ends are plentiful and take tons of abuse . The axles will fit right in to a 12 bolt Chev centre section. which is a popular modification down under to get a narrow 12 bolt, (using the entire Toyota housing ends as well getting rid of that problematic roller axle bearing they have at the same time) .
Mike
Well-Known Member
SM, very few of the 225 Darts came with the 8.75" rear. That would have been a special order option for most years. The 225 Darts typically came with the 7.25" rear. Actually, some of the 318 Darts used the wee rear, as well. Since a T is going to be lighter than a Dart, the 7.25" rear would work just fine.
For anyone considering an 8.75" rear for a performance application, I recommend steering away from the rears used in the six-cylinder cars. They had a smaller diameter pinion stem (which is still larger than the 9" Ford), so anything with a bit of torque (>300) and the ability to stick to the ground is likely going to break the pinion. The 1.375" pinion rear was used from 1957 through 1972. The stronger 1.75" pinion was used through 1969, when it was phased out by the 1.875" pinion.
Can you tell I'm a bit of a Dart fan?
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Can you tell I'm a bit of a Dart fan?
Thats OK Mike, we still love ya man! Hahaha....
I'm a Mopar person myself....my new build, its been a hard choice between the BigBlueOval or a wedge. If I repower later on, it'll probably be a 440, but that'll be many years from now.
For the 318 fans out there....They have a great rod to stroke ratio.
Thats OK Mike, we still love ya man! Hahaha....
I'm a Mopar person myself....my new build, its been a hard choice between the BigBlueOval or a wedge. If I repower later on, it'll probably be a 440, but that'll be many years from now.
For the 318 fans out there....They have a great rod to stroke ratio.
You must be referring to Dart heads and blocks.Fo
Can you tell I'm a bit of a Dart fan?
Similar threads
