24 T coupe
- Thread starter Keeper
- Start date
Todd
Member
Keeper
Active Member
Okay I went to look at this again today. It seems its in a worse condition then originally thought. I did get some pics but I will link them as they are rather large.
http://www.netquickposse.org/tbucketeers/24t/IMG00006.jpg
http://www.netquickposse.org/tbucketeers/24t/IMG00007.jpg
http://www.netquickposse.org/tbucketeers/24t/IMG00008.jpg
http://www.netquickposse.org/tbucketeers/24t/IMG00009.jpg
Take a look. There are other full chassis on the grounds if this one is shot, but the body is really really thin and the lower part is pretty much rotted away. 2 spots down from this is a 28-29 Chev 4 door coupe that looks alright.
Decisions decisions.....
http://www.netquickposse.org/tbucketeers/24t/IMG00006.jpg
http://www.netquickposse.org/tbucketeers/24t/IMG00007.jpg
http://www.netquickposse.org/tbucketeers/24t/IMG00008.jpg
http://www.netquickposse.org/tbucketeers/24t/IMG00009.jpg
Take a look. There are other full chassis on the grounds if this one is shot, but the body is really really thin and the lower part is pretty much rotted away. 2 spots down from this is a 28-29 Chev 4 door coupe that looks alright.
Decisions decisions.....
Keeper
Active Member
Yeah I am still thinking about grabbing it. He is not asking a lot for it so it may be worth it just to pull it out and see. Could always part it out if it is to far gone.
Oh yeah, that's a great looking truck!
As for the chev, yeah the wood is gone, there are bits and pieces of metal laying all around it most are shaped like doors...lol.
Oh yeah, that's a great looking truck!
As for the chev, yeah the wood is gone, there are bits and pieces of metal laying all around it most are shaped like doors...lol.
yep the old girls seen better days that for sure keeper. with what you have there i see a cool channeled T coupe with a flatty and 16" budd wheels. oh yeah and a foot less window heigth.
unless you get realy lucky, you can count on replacing the bottom 4" of most any steel body that's been sittin outside for that many years. looks like quite a job but it's not that bad once you get into it.
Ron
unless you get realy lucky, you can count on replacing the bottom 4" of most any steel body that's been sittin outside for that many years. looks like quite a job but it's not that bad once you get into it.
Ron
Al...that's the one i was talking about. sorry 'bout the '29, should have been the '28. the difference between the heads is the '28 has two exhaust ports and the '29 has only one.
Neal keeps on improving his design. biggest problem folks have with it is blow headgaskets. most often its because they don't re-torque the adaptor plate right. like any other head install, you need to re-check the head bolt torque. this becomes more important with the aluminum adaptor. you have two sets of head bolts. one in the adaptor and one set in the head. once it's run for a while you HAVE to remove the head to re-torque the adaptor, a step most skip, and then re-install the head, run it and re-torque it.
the pic you posted has a Holly 94 carb on it. you can buy these all day long on e-bay rebuilt for $75 to $100.
the really cool thing about using the chev hed is you can run it with the babbits. haveing a block and rods converted to inserts like you almost have to do with the Creager a or Riley ohv conversions, is really spendy.
around here i can get a new babbit done for $300 or so.
you don't want to get to wild with the cam with this headsome people say a stock grind is the best for all around performance and reliablity.
the trans you mentioned will really be a cool thing. more gears will alow you much more enjoyment.
now for "if it was mine" segment of this post. the T block is tough as nails but an A block gives you better design and more flexiblity. i would restore the T engine and look for a '31 A engine to build with the chey head. biggest plus is the tans selecton you have. an ealt A trans with multi disc clutch would be my choice. the reason Henry whent to the later design was for the sake of production costs. consider this, guys were running the mult-disc A clutch in roundy round cars all the way up to the '50's. the trans can be adapted to the T rear end. you can run a model B or C distributor, Malory even made one for the A, but a well re-built B will work just fine.
the same B engine has a better water pump or a '35, '36 v8 pump can be adapted.
wow long post, hope i don't loss it!!! :smashpc:
Ron
whew...made it!!!!!
Neal keeps on improving his design. biggest problem folks have with it is blow headgaskets. most often its because they don't re-torque the adaptor plate right. like any other head install, you need to re-check the head bolt torque. this becomes more important with the aluminum adaptor. you have two sets of head bolts. one in the adaptor and one set in the head. once it's run for a while you HAVE to remove the head to re-torque the adaptor, a step most skip, and then re-install the head, run it and re-torque it.
the pic you posted has a Holly 94 carb on it. you can buy these all day long on e-bay rebuilt for $75 to $100.
the really cool thing about using the chev hed is you can run it with the babbits. haveing a block and rods converted to inserts like you almost have to do with the Creager a or Riley ohv conversions, is really spendy.
around here i can get a new babbit done for $300 or so.
you don't want to get to wild with the cam with this headsome people say a stock grind is the best for all around performance and reliablity.
the trans you mentioned will really be a cool thing. more gears will alow you much more enjoyment.
now for "if it was mine" segment of this post. the T block is tough as nails but an A block gives you better design and more flexiblity. i would restore the T engine and look for a '31 A engine to build with the chey head. biggest plus is the tans selecton you have. an ealt A trans with multi disc clutch would be my choice. the reason Henry whent to the later design was for the sake of production costs. consider this, guys were running the mult-disc A clutch in roundy round cars all the way up to the '50's. the trans can be adapted to the T rear end. you can run a model B or C distributor, Malory even made one for the A, but a well re-built B will work just fine.
the same B engine has a better water pump or a '35, '36 v8 pump can be adapted.
wow long post, hope i don't loss it!!! :smashpc:
Ron
whew...made it!!!!!
Similar threads
