8v71 on a sbc
- Thread starter herrakani
- Start date
Joe-405
Member
This guy has a adapter to bolt it to a 6-71 intake
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=141073455393&cmd=VIDESC
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=141073455393&cmd=VIDESC
Screaming Metal
Active Member
What 409 said! A 6-71 is a better choice, but yes a 8-71 will fit, Barely.... myself, I like the V's mounts, but thats just me. What I like is you don't have to spin the big blowers very fast to get good usable boost, which heats up the intake charge less. And that boost can be used down low....
Just be sure the blower has been go thru by a competent shop like BDS or The Blower Shop. The clearances need to be fairly tight, rotors need to be pinned, everything cleaned and the rotors timed. Best to freshen it up with new seals and bearings....but if its been done by a shop, your good to go. Make sure theres no grit inside and keep the intake and exhaust openings taped shut until installation, (keeps crap out that could lock up the blower, not to mention keeping folks from trying to spin it and losing fingers).
Always run a screened gasket under the blower....I run them under the carbs too to keep parts from being sucked in.
Have your crank keyed for 2 keyways on the hub....a 8-71 will shear a single keyway alot faster than a 6-71 will.
Just be sure the blower has been go thru by a competent shop like BDS or The Blower Shop. The clearances need to be fairly tight, rotors need to be pinned, everything cleaned and the rotors timed. Best to freshen it up with new seals and bearings....but if its been done by a shop, your good to go. Make sure theres no grit inside and keep the intake and exhaust openings taped shut until installation, (keeps crap out that could lock up the blower, not to mention keeping folks from trying to spin it and losing fingers).
Always run a screened gasket under the blower....I run them under the carbs too to keep parts from being sucked in.
Have your crank keyed for 2 keyways on the hub....a 8-71 will shear a single keyway alot faster than a 6-71 will.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Here you go....
http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-te...r-builds-a-streetable-820hp-blown-small-block
You can put a piece of crap motor together based on a 350, with decent tuning and a 6-71 @ about 8%underdrive, usually you'll get about 580 to 650 horses, thats with GOOD pump gas, a really mild cam, 7.5-8.0 to 1 compression, MSD ign, good carbs, heads and headers....
http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-te...r-builds-a-streetable-820hp-blown-small-block
You can put a piece of crap motor together based on a 350, with decent tuning and a 6-71 @ about 8%underdrive, usually you'll get about 580 to 650 horses, thats with GOOD pump gas, a really mild cam, 7.5-8.0 to 1 compression, MSD ign, good carbs, heads and headers....
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Screaming Metal
Active Member
Weiand, Mickey Thompson.....theres some of the blower folks make them, too....
Screaming Metal
Active Member
One thing really nice about Blowers is they don't give a Ratts Ass about lift, or duration, they kinda like a nice centerline. You have to pay attention to overlap though.....
You see when you pressurize that intake, the pressure is flowing alot faster than the regular atmoshere, when the valves start cracking open.
I've seen .850 lift cams sit there and idle like a mild aftermarket grind when that big blower is just sitting there with no boost.
Even though theres no boost, the air is moving alot more than a motor sitting there trying to pull in its charge thru the intake....thus the really peppy response right at off idle.
You see when you pressurize that intake, the pressure is flowing alot faster than the regular atmoshere, when the valves start cracking open.
I've seen .850 lift cams sit there and idle like a mild aftermarket grind when that big blower is just sitting there with no boost.
Even though theres no boost, the air is moving alot more than a motor sitting there trying to pull in its charge thru the intake....thus the really peppy response right at off idle.
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I had an old desk top dyno I used to play with and 10 lbs of boost in a very mild motor would make 2 HP per cubic inch.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Well, if your gonna be running a 350 and a 6-71....it whatever you want. I can tell you this, with 600+ horses on tap, even if you ran 2.83's out back and a stock converter....you can leave a redlight cleanly and still have plenty of tiresmoke and acceleration.
When setting up your gears, that will mostly be based on your tire size, your horsepower will be so high, that, you'll be able to pull quickly and cleanly with about anygear.
You have to set your engine up to your car, usually. When going blown, you gotta set your car up for the motor....
You want some stall, that way your not fighting the car at a redlight. You'll be able to hold the car there WITHOUT both feet on the brake pedal. A stock converter only works in certain circumstances....a big, heavy 3000+ Lb. car and power brakes.
You'd want at least a 3000rpm converter. Its best to have too much converter than not enough because of the horses, your not gonna hook anyway on the street.
As far as gearing, to keep your RPM's down on the highway, I'd go with 3.55's max., optimum at 1600 lbs, I'd prefer to run 3.43's maybe even 3.23's. I'd run a AOD with the 3.55's.
3.73's with a light car and a strong blown motor, you press on the gas quickly, all you'll do is sit there and boil the rear tires....
The AOD will slow your max motor speed down while on the highway....
When setting up your gears, that will mostly be based on your tire size, your horsepower will be so high, that, you'll be able to pull quickly and cleanly with about anygear.
You have to set your engine up to your car, usually. When going blown, you gotta set your car up for the motor....
You want some stall, that way your not fighting the car at a redlight. You'll be able to hold the car there WITHOUT both feet on the brake pedal. A stock converter only works in certain circumstances....a big, heavy 3000+ Lb. car and power brakes.
You'd want at least a 3000rpm converter. Its best to have too much converter than not enough because of the horses, your not gonna hook anyway on the street.
As far as gearing, to keep your RPM's down on the highway, I'd go with 3.55's max., optimum at 1600 lbs, I'd prefer to run 3.43's maybe even 3.23's. I'd run a AOD with the 3.55's.
3.73's with a light car and a strong blown motor, you press on the gas quickly, all you'll do is sit there and boil the rear tires....
The AOD will slow your max motor speed down while on the highway....
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Well, hopefully we'll be hearing from some of the guys here running blown and they can give you input on their setups and how they like them. We have alot of guys running them....and with a AOD trans., you can run some low gears and replace your tires every 6 months....its extremely fun, but expensive. Cops frown on it here.
Its funny, back when I had my shoebox Nova, folks used to know we street raced, and cruised around on Fridays and the weekends....they were cool with things until we started doing unsafe things....but now, they're lookin for anything to haul your ass off to jail.
Ford is shutting down part of their Racing program, they have done shortened the 1/4 mile down to 1000ft. there are now Nissans and Toyotas racing, and the Electrics are coming on strong! There are Diesels out there that are crazy fast....things are changing! They will probably be trying to outlaw out hotrods in the next 10 to 15 years....
Its funny, back when I had my shoebox Nova, folks used to know we street raced, and cruised around on Fridays and the weekends....they were cool with things until we started doing unsafe things....but now, they're lookin for anything to haul your ass off to jail.
Ford is shutting down part of their Racing program, they have done shortened the 1/4 mile down to 1000ft. there are now Nissans and Toyotas racing, and the Electrics are coming on strong! There are Diesels out there that are crazy fast....things are changing! They will probably be trying to outlaw out hotrods in the next 10 to 15 years....
Hot Rod Todd
Member
My bucket had a blown 454 and made 627hp and was very streetable. Then I upgraded to a 671 on a 540 and that was an 851hp dog on the street. So yes, there is a number that is "too much" for a fun street car. But I did meet my goal of running a 9 in a street legal car.
My next project is a steel bodied Fiat Topolino. I have a SBC for the job and Im only looking for 550hp. Based on what I learned in the past I have accumulated the following stuff (and its not a race car)
4 bolt mains 350 block
Edelbrock alloy heads with 72cc chambers
Steel crank (to be double keyway'd)
Scat forged rods
8:1 forged blower pistons
Hydraulic roller cam on a 113 spread
MSD 6BTM
671 blower
Hilborn 4 port EFI
I have the lot except for the MSD, the cam and one Edelbrock head. I figure that with a nice cam, the 550hp should be a breeze. I do have a Mag3 but figure a MSD ignition and the BTM will be a bit simpler.
A T350 with a 2500 stall and a 9 inch with 3.5 gears should make a fun street car.
My next project is a steel bodied Fiat Topolino. I have a SBC for the job and Im only looking for 550hp. Based on what I learned in the past I have accumulated the following stuff (and its not a race car)
4 bolt mains 350 block
Edelbrock alloy heads with 72cc chambers
Steel crank (to be double keyway'd)
Scat forged rods
8:1 forged blower pistons
Hydraulic roller cam on a 113 spread
MSD 6BTM
671 blower
Hilborn 4 port EFI
I have the lot except for the MSD, the cam and one Edelbrock head. I figure that with a nice cam, the 550hp should be a breeze. I do have a Mag3 but figure a MSD ignition and the BTM will be a bit simpler.
A T350 with a 2500 stall and a 9 inch with 3.5 gears should make a fun street car.
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