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A Bit More Progress

I've had some time off of work this week so I got the pieces in place and did the body work on them and the console.

These first pics just shows the benefit of taping off body filler. There's no reason to sand where you don't need to.


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It all worked out pretty well. But I now have to modify the seat shells to fit this contour.


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Nice work! Great Color choice! Will it be ready in time for the NTBA Nationals in TN?
Been burning up my free time getting these seat shells to fit these back rails. I wanted a consistent gap for the upholstery to come.


The passenger's seat was good to go. But the driver's seat needed a lot of work. I had to tweak it in two places.


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When that was done I needed a different way to bolt the seats to the floor. The four points I've been using won't work once the shells are upholstered. And there's too much going on underneath to send bolts up through the floor. So I came up with these brackets. The small screws are temporary. I'll imbed some 5/16" threaded bosses into the floor later when the body is flipped over.

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With these jigs I routed some flat spots and slots into the front areas for the brackets to pass through.


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And routed the areas in the floor so that the brackets are recessed and flush. Cut deeper and wider than the brackets for glass underneath and up the sides.

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Another small project recently were these door striker bolts. I never liked the hex head on the ones that came with my bear claw latches. And they were undersized just enough to rattle when closed. With a single wrap of masking tape they were good. So that was the measurement I went for.

Flat head 7/16-14 bolts and some 3/4 OD x 3/8" ID DOM made up the parts.

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I wish I had a lathe for stuff like this, but I just crank up my drill press to 3000 RPM and get after it with an angle grinder. Checking now and then with calipers.

Here's what they looked like still a hair oversized and before some fine sanding to the right diameter.

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Now they're sized right for the latches and look better. I'll coat them with something durable.

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I think a lathe would be a good buy for you. Just a hobby one is all you need to do simple thing. Look after it and it will last a lifetime and save you a lot of time, money and grief. About 24" between centres is all you need for most car things and modern tip tools means you dont have to bother resharpening stuff like we did 40years ago.

I have just passed mine on as I dont use it anymore and have access to one if I need it; but it was so very useful to just fire it up and make something that would otherwise cost more than it should and negate the modern waiting time of 3 -6 weeks for it to arrive.

With your approach to things you would master it in very short time. Look for second hand ones in your area. If any old guys are selling up and see what you are capable of; they would probably either give it to you or sell it cheap. I know I would.

I did some good stuff (at least in my eyes) with this lathe as can be seen in past posts.


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I had something like this years ago, and made a lot of motorcycle parts.
Then got divorced :cautious:, sold it, and a bunch of other high end woodworking machines.

I kick myself now.
Chop' you kicking yourself about the Divorce or of Selling the tools?.........LOL......I know I will go sit in the corner now...!
Nice work. Innovation is hotroding! Looks good. I have almost bought a lathe and mill numerous times, but no more than I need one and the space they take up negates the incentive. I have a friend who works as a machinist, so in a pinch, he comes through. I have plans to erect a larger shop if building material costs ever return to earth, perhaps then.
Nothing very exciting this week but necessary.

I needed one more mounting point on the outsides of my seat shells and the space is limited.

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So I recessed the areas with a router and templates again.

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And used these 1/4-20 adhesive mount nuts on the inside.

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They're pretty cool. I just bonded them in place with bondo and glassed over them.

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I also found some good 5/16 threaded inserts for the floor (not the zinc ones). These are steel.

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Hey guys.

I've been working on these three barrel lower door hinges to give more stability than just the mono hinges.

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I needed something that could have their own pivot points and got some inspiration from the back door hinges on utility vans.


I tried several mock ups...

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... and ended up with this.
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The most important part was to establish the centerline of the existing hinges. It all has to jive together. So I made this jig to get the first barrel mounted.

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These steel plates bond to the door skins the same way the upper hinges did. I'll glass them in for added strength.


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They really help stabilize the doors. And they'll be hidden underneath upholstered panels later.

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