golddredger
Member
Acetone works faster than lacquer thinner. End results are the same. Just the accetone costs more and evaporates much faster.
Traded a flathead for this mold and having some fun and I can say I built my own body!
Molds aren't cheap. When I was building cargo trailers to pull behind motorcycles, my largest initial expense was the making of the molds. A trailer body that in raw form cost me 600.00. The mold for that body cost 8000.00 to make. Remember, first you need a plug to make the mold off of.
I don't remember the last time I saw a raw flathead motor. They are pretty scarce around here, like old hemis.Ohhh, I must have misread. I thought he traded the f/h engine for a mold, so he could build his own body. I wouldn't trade for a body either. Just sold my 60hp flatty for an obscene amount.
It may not be a bad investment.I still have another 48 merc flathead and i could go pick up 6 tomorrow if i wanted them for $250 each. Also kniw where there is 2 hemis for $800 each. They are around here anytime I want one.
You are correct chopptop, I traded a 48 merc flathead v8 for the mold in the pictures above! I would not have traded for a body only. I gave the flathead, a front axle, heater core, few sbc parts, for the mold, a t bucket body from the mold and a glass radiator shroud.
How do you guys that do a lot of glass work keep your rollers and such clean? What is your preferred soaking chemical? I've heard several things from lacquer thinner to acetone.
How do you guys that do a lot of glass work keep your rollers and such clean? What is your preferred soaking chemical? I've heard several things from lacquer thinner to acetone.
My body was made thicker but we also applied a two part foam to the inside of the sides and rear of the body. After that we ground and sanded the foam to our liking and then proceeded to glass over the shaped foam thus making a very strong, solid body. I might also add that before pouring the foam we installed a 3/4" square tube from a 3/16" plate that was attached through the floor to the frame, which was also fiberglass, across the bottom of the dash to a corresponding piece on the other side of the body. This gave us a very strong mounting point for the steering column. The two 3/16" plates that I mentioned earlier are only two of ten mounting points (five per side) for the body. Consequently, we have a completely wood free, very strong body.How thick....how many layers are you going to do? If you lay them up a little thicker than the bodies you can buy, you can probably skip reinforcing your bodies with wood.