Alternator question for a rewire

[WMG]

I am doing a complete rewire on the T. The old wires looked like a birds nest under the dash and there were a lot of wires going no where in harnesses. The original donor car was a 76 Camaro, according to everything I can find on the issue it should only be a one wire alt. however the dual plug had a connector in it, one wire was burnt off and the other went into a harness under the dash, it then changed color a couple of times and I am not sure where it attached or if it even did. Do I only put the one wire on and ignore the plug? OR?

 

[scmmcd247]

One will need to go to 12v pos the other will go to a light or a resistor with key on power. It needs the light to turn on the alternator.

 

[WMG]

One will need to go to 12v pos the other will go to a light or a resistor with key on power. It needs the light to turn on the alternator.

There never was a light on this system or a resistor. There is a volt meter. Do I need to connect to the volt meter? Would hate to burn out the alt. it is new.

 

[scmmcd247]

You need the indicator lamp or a resistor to exite the alternator. It also needs a diode in line also or I'm pretty sure it will back feed when you turn the key off. Then the car won't shut off. I hope this is helping you. Also if the alt stops making volts the light will come on to let you know.

 

[scmmcd247]

This is a good example also.

 

[RPM]

You don't need a diode, a light or any resistor. Simply run the exciter wire to the acc side of the ignition switch. By running to the acc terminal, you shut off the power to the ignition when you turn off the switch and it won't feed across and keep the engine running. The heavy 10 ga wire we run to the battery terminal on the starter.

 

[dalekc]

You don't need a diode, a light or any resistor. Simply run the exciter wire to the acc side of the ignition switch. By running to the acc terminal, you shut off the power to the ignition when you turn off the switch and it won't feed across and keep the engine running. The heavy 10 ga wire we run to the battery terminal on the starter.

 

[scmmcd247]

Ok sorry that's the way I have done it in the past. Thanks for fixing my mistake.

 

[WMG]

You don't need a diode, a light or any resistor. Simply run the exciter wire to the acc side of the ignition switch. By running to the acc terminal, you shut off the power to the ignition when you turn off the switch and it won't feed across and keep the engine running. The heavy 10 ga wire we run to the battery terminal on the starter.

Ron hate to sound like the dummy I am on this but you are saying take 18ga wire to acc of the switch and use a jumper as shown with power to the switch coming from the starter?

 

[WMG]

Ron hate to sound like the dummy I am on this but you are saying take 18ga wire to acc of the switch and use a jumper as shown with power to the switch coming from the starter?

Add on. I have the 10ga wire going to the starter now then I have a 10ga wire going to the switch "BATT"

 

[RPM]

Ron hate to sound like the dummy I am on this but you are saying take 18ga wire to acc of the switch and use a jumper as shown with power to the switch coming from the starter?

The 10 ga wire can go to the starter. The 18 ga wire goes to the acc terminal on the ign switch.

 

[WMG]

Ron thanks for this will work on today

 

[Dirt-T]

If you do not have an acc position on your ign switch use the diode that stops feed back.
Terry

 

[WMG]

Have been looking at this some more. One drawing I have seen is from the booklet "How to wire a street rod" that I got from one of the suppliers, Jegs, Summit, Speedway, do not remember now, and it shows that when a "volt meter" is used there is only one wire to the alternator, the main pin on the back. The two prong plug is not used. Just getting more confused all the time.

 

[oino]

Here is how I have mine. Sorry for the bad image. Did on my phone.


Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2

 

[PotvinGuy]

A true "one wire" alternator won't have the plug at all, just the post for the cable to the fuse block or battery or starter. These alternators are self-energizing. But if your alternator has a plug (that's a "3-wire" alternator), then terminal 1 must be wired as described above or the alternator won't turn on. Terminal 2, the sense input, can be left unconnected (it is internally referenced to the alternator output if not otherwise connected), or connected to the post as shown, or connected to the fuse block. I like the fuse block connection as it compensates for any voltage drop from the alternator to the fuse block, but the other methods are commonly used and normally are not a problem.

A voltmeter simply monitors voltage and doesn't have anything to do with this wiring. If you do want a voltmeter it just connects to a source of switched power and a ground.

Keep asking questions until you feel comfortable with this. Electricity is probably the least understood part of street rods, but we have experts on this site and they want to help.

 

[WMG]

A true "one wire" alternator won't have the plug at all, just the post for the cable to the fuse block or battery or starter. These alternators are self-energizing. But if your alternator has a plug (that's a "3-wire" alternator), then terminal 1 must be wired as described above or the alternator won't turn on. Terminal 2, the sense input, can be left unconnected (it is internally referenced to the alternator output if not otherwise connected), or connected to the post as shown, or connected to the fuse block. I like the fuse block connection as it compensates for any voltage drop from the alternator to the fuse block, but the other methods are commonly used and normally are not a problem.

A voltmeter simply monitors voltage and doesn't have anything to do with this wiring. If you do want a voltmeter it just connects to a source of switched power and a ground.

Keep asking questions until you feel comfortable with this. Electricity is probably the least understood part of street rods, but we have experts on this site and they want to help.

Thanks for the input, great info. Will be trying to get the final items wired up next day or so then see what happens when switches are turned and pulled. Making a living to pay for all this seems to get in the way of getting it done.

 

[Mike Lowden]

Yep - what Potvin Guy said. The alternator in the picture is not a one wire. The light is required on that style alternator.