Aluminum firewall

[fletcherson]

Fletcherson - The cowl steering was a real challenge. I used the steering box from a '85 Ford Ranger laid on its side and fab'd the sector shaft extension so it would reach through the body. The steering column is from a '68 Olds 442 and radically shortened. The trans is a T-5 five speed from a '92 Chevy S-10 pickup with a short-throw shifter kit.

Indycars - I originally figured out how to do the engine-turn brushing back in the '70s when I was building Quarter-midgets for my nephews. I have used it many times since on various projects made of aluminum. It always draws a lot of comments and questions at cruise-ins and rod runs. The 1/2" aluminum is the lip for my hood and hood sides.

Lee (Choppedtop) - I'm a "jack of all trades". I do all my own chassis fabrication, engine assembly, bodywork, paint, wiring, and woodwork (if necessary). The only things I don't do are engine machine work and stitching the upholstery. I enjoy fabrication, so I don't buy anything I can figure out how to do myself. Sorry if I sound like I'm bragging; I've just been at this a long time and never had much money to spend, so I either did it myself or did without. If anybody is interested, the complete build thread on my Track-T is here: http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-talk/30400-another-build-thread-yep-my-track-style-t.html

Mean Green: I respect and admire guys who can do many things themselves. Anyone can buy or pay to have one built, no offence if that's anybody's preference. I grew up missing the silver spoon also, so I was forced to figure things out working at various vocations. I either fixed it, built it, or did without. Now I just like the challenge. I could go buy just about whatever I want now, but it's not the same as grinding through it, so to speak and I have compiled a fair tool collection over the years and trades as well, and like using them. I sort of measure my self worth by what I can do, whatever that is. I was thinking about going on a scavenger hunt at the junk yard for steering box options, but I have a Gemmer box that I think I can make work. I have limited mounting options due to the bbc and standard shift with manual clutch linkage. I think it will work out on top of the frame, inside the body, just behind the firewall, angled back. I will have to slightly modify the bottom corner of the body for the pitman arm. The small box will fit under the kick board which will also cover the bell housing and leave a otherwise flat floor. The verdict is still out. Nice job on yours!

 

[meangreen]

Thanks for the compliment. Sounds like we've had similar circumstances in earlier years. I'm an old retired school teacher now and, even if I had piles of cash, I still like doing things my way. I, too, enjoy the challenge and the satisfaction of the finished product.

I used the Ranger box because it already works the correct direction without having to be "reversed". They aren't too practical for mounting where they can be seen (like a reversed Corvair box) because they require a big ugly bracket on the top side, but none of that shows with it mounted inside the body. If the box you have doesn't work out take a look at one of these.

 

[fletcherson]

Thanks for the compliment. Sounds like we've had similar circumstances in earlier years. I'm an old retired school teacher now and, even if I had piles of cash, I still like doing things my way. I, too, enjoy the challenge and the satisfaction of the finished product.

I used the Ranger box because it already works the correct direction without having to be "reversed". They aren't too practical for mounting where they can be seen (like a reversed Corvair box) because they require a big ugly bracket on the top side, but none of that shows with it mounted inside the body. If the box you have doesn't work out take a look at one of these.

That's good info, I am considering fabricating a cage around the interior and under the cowl due to fear of a side impact and that would allow mounting a box high and out of the way.

 

[meangreen]

That's exactly what I did. The roll bar in my car is bolted to the frame, both hoops under the dash are bolted to the frame, and then there are side bars welded in place from the under-dash hoop to the roll bar. The whole structure is glassed and wooded into the body so the roll cage is actually supporting the body. The steering box bolts to the under-cowl structure. You can see it in detail in my build thread over on Club Hotrod, but here's an early build pic that shows one of the side bars. I also added bracketry so that my seat belt harnesses (5-point) bolt to the cage, not the fiberglass floor.

 

[rbsWELDER]

MG - The roll bar is bolted to the frame. So, did you tap the frame, weld in a nut into the frame or ???

Thanks,

 

[benT]

I'm late to this party, but here's what we are doing on our current '23 build. We has some fairly thick (about 3/16") surplus aircraft 2024 sheet aluminum so we traced the cowl out and cut it with jig saw and smoothed the edges. Instead of laminating it with adhesive, we decided to bolt it on using carriage bolts with the heads ground and smoothed. This gives it a riveted look that we like and is appropriate to the style of the car. We'll be powdercoating it and the bolts in lieu of polishing. Just another way to skin the cat...

 

[fletcherson]

That's exactly what I did. The roll bar in my car is bolted to the frame, both hoops under the dash are bolted to the frame, and then there are side bars welded in place from the under-dash hoop to the roll bar. The whole structure is glassed and wooded into the body so the roll cage is actually supporting the body. The steering box bolts to the under-cowl structure. You can see it in detail in my build thread over on Club Hotrod, but here's an early build pic that shows one of the side bars. I also added bracketry so that my seat belt harnesses (5-point) bolt to the cage, not the fiberglass floor.

View attachment 10736

That is just about what I had in mind. I am really fighting the limited space issue. I wish that I had a stretched body. I thought about blowing the whole thing apart and adding some to the frame and cutting and stretching the cab, but for now I am going to try to make it work as is. Finding the right seat seems to be the critical issue with the clutch/brake petal placement. I don't want to sit too high, but lowering the seat requires more leg room. It's tuff to make what I want when starting with an existing car that was apparently built with a smaller framed person in mind. I could diet and shed a few pounds, but I am pretty much stuck with my length. Lol.

 

[fletcherson]

I'm late to this party, but here's what we are doing on our current '23 build. We has some fairly thick (about 3/16") surplus aircraft 2024 sheet aluminum so we traced the cowl out and cut it with jig saw and smoothed the edges. Instead of laminating it with adhesive, we decided to bolt it on using carriage bolts with the heads ground and smoothed. This gives it a riveted look that we like and is appropriate to the style of the car. We'll be powdercoating it and the bolts in lieu of polishing. Just another way to skin the cat...

Looks good! Whoever built mine originally used polished stainless with stainless stove bolts to fasten it. Similar to your car.

 

[meangreen]

rbsWELDER - I welded 5/16 wall 2" angle iron "pads" to the frame in the bolt hole locations then drilled and tapped through them into the frame rails. the frame tubing is 1/8" wall so I have a total of 7/16 thread depth. The roll bar has four 7/16-20 bolts attaching it to the frame kick-up and both under dash hoops have a pair of 3/8-24 bolts holding them. All the bolts are grade-8.

benT - You could brush finish or engine turn that firewall and have it powder coated in clear or any of several candy colors. One of the local young guys here used a wire brush wheel on an angle grinder to swirl-finish the aluminum panel on his Ford Ranger tailgate and had it powder coated in candy blue - it was beautiful. Just a thought...

Fletcherson - I tried 3 different seat combinations before I settled on what I have. If you look at my build thread over on Club Hotrod, I started with a couple of small bucket seats for a Bobcat from Northern Tool. Because of the way their bottom is shaped I couldn't get them to sit low enough so I built a wood seat bottom and back from scratch. I still didn't like the fit or the look and finally ended up with a pair of Kirkey aluminum seats from Speedway Motors. They have a shallow bottom that allowed me to raise or lower them where I wanted.

 

[fletcherson]

rbsWELDER - I welded 5/16 wall 2" angle iron "pads" to the frame in the bolt hole locations then drilled and tapped through them into the frame rails. the frame tubing is 1/8" wall so I have a total of 7/16 thread depth. The roll bar has four 7/16-20 bolts attaching it to the frame kick-up and both under dash hoops have a pair of 3/8-24 bolts holding them. All the bolts are grade-8.

benT - You could brush finish or engine turn that firewall and have it powder coated in clear or any of several candy colors. One of the local young guys here used a wire brush wheel on an angle grinder to swirl-finish the aluminum panel on his Ford Ranger tailgate and had it powder coated in candy blue - it was beautiful. Just a thought...

Fletcherson - I tried 3 different seat combinations before I settled on what I have. If you look at my build thread over on Club Hotrod, I started with a couple of small bucket seats for a Bobcat from Northern Tool. Because of the way their bottom is shaped I couldn't get them to sit low enough so I built a wood seat bottom and back from scratch. I still didn't like the fit or the look and finally ended up with a pair of Kirkey aluminum seats from Speedway Motors. They have a shallow bottom that allowed me to raise or lower them where I wanted.

I was also looking at those same seats. In the process of relocating the steering box, I moved the body back and gained a little, but the petals are mounted to the cross member as are the lift bars, etc...and the frame is tapered, so moving it would require modification. I am stuck with it unless I opt for a re-design. One thing this little t has taught me is that they should be designed from inception with the driver in mind. Oh well, I do love a challenge!

 

[benT]

[QUOTE="benT - You could brush finish or engine turn that firewall and have it powder coated in clear or any of several candy colors. One of the local young guys here used a wire brush wheel on an angle grinder to swirl-finish the aluminum panel on his Ford Ranger tailgate and had it powder coated in candy blue - it was beautiful. Just a thought...[/QUOTE]

We've done a lot of that for customers (we are powder coating and ceramic coating shop), but for this build it will be to stick with the theme... It will get a nice coat of Silver Sparkle with glossy clear.

 

[meangreen]

OK, so you ARE the powder coater. Cool! If I still lived up there I'd be a customer (I'm originally from Greenwood).

 

[meangreen]

Fletcherson - I used the swing pedals and column support (much modified) out of a Chevy S-10 pickup. The whole assembly is attached to the under dash structure.

 

[Hackerbilt]

I have a free piece of 16g stainless now that I can use for the firewall so I guess I'll give that a shot.
I'm still kinda liking the idea of thicker Aluminum but you can't look a gift horse in the mouth! LoL
Frees up the money for other stuff too.
Now I just gotta figure out the whats and hows for some type of finish.
Brushed...polished...clearcoated or whatever.

 

[T-Test]

I have a free piece of 16g stainless now that I can use for the firewall so I guess I'll give that a shot.
I'm still kinda liking the idea of thicker Aluminum but you can't look a gift horse in the mouth! LoL
Frees up the money for other stuff too.
Now I just gotta figure out the whats and hows for some type of finish.
Brushed...polished...clearcoated or whatever.

You don't want anything real thick on the outside of the firewall. it looks out of place.

Polish and install= free labor and materials can't be beat!!

 

[Hackerbilt]

Polish and install= free labor and materials can't be beat!!

Yup...thats the truth! LoL
I'm really up in the air on finish.
I like the look of engine turning but like a lot of specialty effects it can get overpowering real quick. Needs to be used sparingly...and my big 27ish looking cowl has a lot of real estate at the firewall, even with the mass of the big block.
Maybe I should consider an additional stainless or even aluminum overlay panel to mimic the upper rounded area of a stock 27 firewall.
Might give an interesting look and would break up the firewall into two distinct areas for individual finishes.
Just rattling thoughts off as I think about it...but hey! I'm always open to new ideas or cool old ones!

 

[T-Test]

.
Just rattling thoughts off as I think about it...but hey! I'm always open to new ideas or cool old ones! [/QUOTE]

That is what makes inventors soooo popular!!! After they have driven themselves loony, everyone else gets to enjoy what they discovered!!!