Well, add your fluids, when installing the convertor, add some to it, at least a quart. When you stand the convertor up to install it, push on it to engage the splines, pushing it backwards toward the trans. After its almost there, start rocking it back and forth 1/2 to 3/4s of a turn, while pushing gently on the convertor to engage the front pump.
Some of your trans fluid will run out before you get the convertor all the way in, this is normal. You just want some fluid in there to avoid a drystart.
Then pull your trans dipstick, add the trans fluid minus however much you put in the convertor.
Now, you can do the rest one of 2 ways.
You can start the car then run in the cam first, after the cam break-in occurs, idle it down some, you'll have to usually shift thru your gears a time or two to get the fluid all the way thru your valvebody. This is normal. Sometimes, after cam break-in....the trans is usually good-to-go. Just top off the fluid that was spilt when installing the convertor.
If you have to move the shifter thru the gears to get the car to move move some, keep on moving the shifter around slowly until the car tries to move, holding your brake firmly. Move the shifter back and forth till you can feel it when you move the shifter.
Put her into park, ease off the brake and make sure the car doesn't try to move. I ALWAYS use a neutral safety switch!!!! These cars will crank easily when in gear and run off into a wall or over someone if you don't watch out!
Idle your car down to your curb idle speed, recheck things for tightness and for leaks, but the 15 to 20 minutes is crucial for cam break-in w/a flat tappet cam. With a roller cam, this is not necessary, but I still run it in to help seat the rings and valves.
