anybody runing a Vette rear end
- Thread starter Fireball
- Start date
Corley
New Member
I'm not an expert here, but I have to question your price statement. Tons of dead XJ6 Jags out there with the basic parts you need. While there are some dead 'Vettes, I think their parts would be more $$. Either can work fine, but I don't plan to run either, and I have both sitting here in my shop right now. Instead I plan to keep it simple, and use an S-10 rear end. Much less work, much less $$, and just as functional. If you are going for looks, then the Jag. is the way to go, after you chrome it all up to the hilt, you can't beat the looks. For me, it turns out to not be a practical decision, since I am not into show, I just wanna go....
LarryH
Member
I'm running a Corvette rear end in my T-Bucket.
Pros:
Nice ride.
Looks really cool watching the chromed axles spinnin' as it rolls down the road.
Cons:
Expensive to work on.
Hub has to be pressed on and off to replace the rear wheel bearings(cost me $325 for one side and i had a hard time finding a shop locally that could do it) because the bearings must be shimmed to prevent excessive run out. If the run out on the rotors is excessive the calipers pistons will oscillate causing the pistons to suck in air resulting in a loss of brakes. If the car spends alot of time parked the pistons will corrode causing the calipers to leak. They can be honed out and have stainless steel sleeves and O rings installed to prevents leaks and corrosion.
If the side yoke (inner axle) ends get worn it cause excessive rear tire wear and positrac clutch chatter. The axle shifts can move back and forth and can cause a form of rear bump steer.
Did i mention expensive to work on?
My T-Bucket already had the Corvette rear end when i bought it. If had of known all the cons of the Corvette rear end i would have passed on the car.
Pros:
Nice ride.
Looks really cool watching the chromed axles spinnin' as it rolls down the road.
Cons:
Expensive to work on.
Hub has to be pressed on and off to replace the rear wheel bearings(cost me $325 for one side and i had a hard time finding a shop locally that could do it) because the bearings must be shimmed to prevent excessive run out. If the run out on the rotors is excessive the calipers pistons will oscillate causing the pistons to suck in air resulting in a loss of brakes. If the car spends alot of time parked the pistons will corrode causing the calipers to leak. They can be honed out and have stainless steel sleeves and O rings installed to prevents leaks and corrosion.
If the side yoke (inner axle) ends get worn it cause excessive rear tire wear and positrac clutch chatter. The axle shifts can move back and forth and can cause a form of rear bump steer.
Did i mention expensive to work on?
My T-Bucket already had the Corvette rear end when i bought it. If had of known all the cons of the Corvette rear end i would have passed on the car.
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Come on guys.
Take the time spend a little and get the Vette rear end sorted out
If you want the best get an IRS.... IMHO
Gerry
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
In my neck of the woods (Kansas City), 'vettes and Jags sell for about the same. Parts costs are comparable as well. Personally, I think the Jag looks better from behind, but the 'vette (theoretically) can handle more power in stock form. The weak points in the stock Jag are the U-joints. There are aftermarket parts for the Jag to make it stout enough to handle 500 horses or more. Plenty of Jags running behind big block Fords in kit Cobras with no issues.
Corley
New Member
Actually, after thinking about it, I think you have answered your own question. Most likely the money you spend on buying the rear end, be in Corvette or Jag, is a whole lot less than it's going to cost you for all the right stuff to make it look right and drive right in your bucket. So, if you hesitate on the initial cost of the rear, that's only the tip of the iceberg. It all boils down to "you get what you pay for" I guess. Any of them when set up right works just fine.
PS, if you go for the 'Vette rear, keep in mind that 1980 and up is an aluminum housing and an aluminum sub frame. (Looks good but is a bit weaker.) Prior years are cast iron housing and stamped steel sub frame.
GAB
Member
Larry H,
Here is a homemade tool for disassembling the Corvette hub carrier. The bottom of the pickle fork part of the hub carrier is bolted to the piece on the left in the pic and the other two bolts use a tube spacer and bolt to the brake caliper mounting bolts. It is supported by the angles and a hydraulic press pushes on the end of the stub axle through the hole. It takes quite a bit of pressure to pop some of them loose.
I have probably disassembled around 50 of them over the years and the only reason that I can see for making the inner bearing a press fit is to make very expensive repair bills...as you can attest to. Most Chevrolet dealerships don't have the tool for disassembly and use a torch to cut out the bearing and ruin the stub axle, selective fit shim and spacer. I chuck up the stub axle in the lathe and polish the inner bearing surface with a belt type of polisher similar to what is used to polish crankshafts. It is polished until the bearing is just barely able to be slipped on the axle. When the unit is assembled with the spacer tube and the shim, it locks the bearing into position and prevents rotation. With this modification, the hub carrier can be disassembled with ordinary hand tools, no need for the special tool. The Corvette rears do have some trouble with inner bearings, particularly when a wheel with a lot of offset is used. A lot of leverage against the inner bearing.
Here is a homemade tool for disassembling the Corvette hub carrier. The bottom of the pickle fork part of the hub carrier is bolted to the piece on the left in the pic and the other two bolts use a tube spacer and bolt to the brake caliper mounting bolts. It is supported by the angles and a hydraulic press pushes on the end of the stub axle through the hole. It takes quite a bit of pressure to pop some of them loose.
I have probably disassembled around 50 of them over the years and the only reason that I can see for making the inner bearing a press fit is to make very expensive repair bills...as you can attest to. Most Chevrolet dealerships don't have the tool for disassembly and use a torch to cut out the bearing and ruin the stub axle, selective fit shim and spacer. I chuck up the stub axle in the lathe and polish the inner bearing surface with a belt type of polisher similar to what is used to polish crankshafts. It is polished until the bearing is just barely able to be slipped on the axle. When the unit is assembled with the spacer tube and the shim, it locks the bearing into position and prevents rotation. With this modification, the hub carrier can be disassembled with ordinary hand tools, no need for the special tool. The Corvette rears do have some trouble with inner bearings, particularly when a wheel with a lot of offset is used. A lot of leverage against the inner bearing.
LarryH
Member
deckofficer
Banned
OptimusPrime
New Member
I currently have a customer car in the shop that has a cast iron vet rear (70"s model) the fab work was twice the time it takes for an s10 rear, although it looks killer in the car and will preform great it does take more thought to install. The only thing that I can fault it with is that its a slight bit narrower but this can be overcome with wheel offset, the disassembly is a bit of a chore but can be done without expensive tools. All in all I like the way it has turned out and I also think when chromed out it will look great.
fordsbyjay
Active Member
These can be had for super cheap at most pull a part type auto wreckers and they were available in cougars as well. The newer Explorers also have an IRS along with a boat load of other cars now a days. The Fords use an 8.8 which has a large selection of support parts and they are quite strong.
Check out http://www.team321.com/
They have a cage for the FORD IRS
They also worked with Spirit at one time and fitted it in a T-bucket frame.
Just a couple thoughts here.
The IRS dose take a little more engineering to set up. But the finial result is well worth it. Think about all the adjustments you have on a typical solid axle front end on a t-bucket. Wringing out the Jag is not that much more complicated. It's a challenge but stop to think for a minute ... you are talking about building a complete vehicle. Now that's a challenge in its self.
Now think about resale. A well done IRS is going to help get the return your looking for at that time.
Ron
The IRS dose take a little more engineering to set up. But the finial result is well worth it. Think about all the adjustments you have on a typical solid axle front end on a t-bucket. Wringing out the Jag is not that much more complicated. It's a challenge but stop to think for a minute ... you are talking about building a complete vehicle. Now that's a challenge in its self.
Now think about resale. A well done IRS is going to help get the return your looking for at that time.
Ron
fordsbyjay
Active Member
That is a cool link thanks!
Shadey
New Member
Have you thought about the Kugel Komponets rear for the car? It not only looks good but it rides good and you can get them to set it up with whatever gears that you want to run in it. Speaking of resale, it does raise that a lot. There is another big plus behind that and that is it is AMERICAN MADE.
im doing a jag and found it to be cheaper then a vett,, I see jags rear for 150 all the time ,, with inboard brakes..
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Off the line at full-throttle with a 500+ hp 6-71-blown 355 SBC, Jag IRS with no posi-traction...Traction is not found in the IRS units, plain and simple...
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