Francis Blake
Active Member
Where does everyone have their battery? I am making a under floor bat box that the face of it will unbolt and the battery will be accessible with out cutting a hole in the floor. What do you think?
Battery box
- Thread starter Francis Blake
- Start date
ellis8500
Member
I'm going to use a compact AGM [Absorbed Glass Mat] battery mounted in the trunk of my 27T. The AGM batterie can be mounted anyway but upside down; are less then half the weight and size of a lead-acid battery. They do cost more; but from what I've read, will last as long as two or three L-A batteries.
Ted Brown
Member
My new design for a T Bucket will also use a mount anywhere in any position battery, dry, and it will be mounted very close to the starter, to keep main cables to it as short as possible... Nothing will ever hang below the main frame again, nothing to get hung up on anything, including Radius rod brackets, the frame will be smooth the full length, just like a skid plate, all mounts can be mounted up higher with no real problems, this will also get the body lower, much easier to get in and out of... I don't know about you, but I need LOW now days, as far as stepping over goes... Real hot rods don't have doors... hehe 
My new design for a T Bucket will also use a mount anywhere in any position battery, dry, and it will be mounted very close to the starter, to keep main cables to it as short as possible... Nothing will ever hang below the main frame again, nothing to get hung up on anything, including Radius rod brackets, the frame will be smooth the full length, just like a skid plate, all mounts can be mounted up higher with no real problems, this will also get the body lower, much easier to get in and out of... I don't know about you, but I need LOW now days, as far as stepping over goes... Real hot rods don't have doors... hehe
Ted that is how most rat rods are built, nothing below the frame rails. The only problem I see with these type cars is you have to mount the engine and trans real high in the chassis. Mounting the engine high really cuts down on interior room. Which is hardly any at all in a bucket.
Ted Brown
Member
As far as interior room, more room for the feet operating the gas and brake is all that is needed, which can be had with careful planning, what is in between my legs and the passenger's legs does not matter to me, I would rather have no worries about important THINGS hanging down in harms way... I think seating comfort is also a must, and also can be had with planning...
I'm with Ted on this. I want the battery close to the starter for short (less weight) cables and I specifically don't want a battery or cables anywhere near the gas tank. I don't want a spark source near the gas in the case of an accident. All my electrical in the back of the car will be around 3.5 volts as I will run LED lights back there to reduce the chance of a spark.
The spun aluminumm gas tanks mounted on the crossmember of an open car scare the hell out of me. I am pondering a different approach to the gas tank and will show and tell as (if) the idea develops.
In aircraft, we say the only time you have too much fuel o board is when you're on fire.
The spun aluminumm gas tanks mounted on the crossmember of an open car scare the hell out of me. I am pondering a different approach to the gas tank and will show and tell as (if) the idea develops.
In aircraft, we say the only time you have too much fuel o board is when you're on fire.
Francis Blake
Active Member
My bat cables will be less than 3 ft long ( bat will be just behind the trans mount) and 3 1/2ft from the gas tank and will hang 3 inches below the frame. This car has a lot of ground clearance so I don't see any problems. Thanks for the responses.
I don't see the problem with long battery cables as long as you use large wire. I have a front mount battery in my Northstar powered Fiero which, as near as I can recall, has about 11 feet of able on each side. zero problems in 4 years use. I had my battery shop fabricate them out of welding cable, with properly crimped on ends.
YMMV,
Russ
YMMV,
Russ
LarryH
Member
I really like the way my T-Bucket looks with nothing but the 12 gallon spun aluminum gas tank on the back. But like you say, not so safe in a crash. Later this year when i redo the car i'll add a pickup bed (28"-30") and either run a fuel cell or have a custom tank made that will be protected by the frame.
My battery is currently under the seat. I haven't decided if i'll leave it there or move it to the bed. But i'm thinking if i move it to the bed i could use the space to build a small tool box under the seat
Ted Brown
Member
I myself still have fairly long battery cables on my old design T Bucket... Everything works very well, except now days the cable costs about $7 a foot, so I am a cheap be$turd, I hate spending any more than I have to, for everything on the build, I can't make that cable, or I would do that also.. hehe I make every part that I can, and buy used whenever possible, because a T Bucket will never wear parts out like a normal everyday, heavier car...
So, keep all the copper wires to the smallest size for long runs, I will run 1 heavy wire #10 to the front and 1 to the rear for all the power, and run real small wire for grounding all the relays to turn things on and off with real light duty switches also... You can also stop any sparking at switches by using one way diodes as well... Things I will be using on my new build design...
So, keep all the copper wires to the smallest size for long runs, I will run 1 heavy wire #10 to the front and 1 to the rear for all the power, and run real small wire for grounding all the relays to turn things on and off with real light duty switches also... You can also stop any sparking at switches by using one way diodes as well... Things I will be using on my new build design...
Gerry
Well-Known Member
I myself still have fairly long battery cables on my old design T Bucket... Everything works very well, except now days the cable costs about $7 a foot, so I am a cheap be$turd, I hate spending any more than I have to, for everything on the build, I can't make that cable, or I would do that also.. hehe I make every part that I can, and buy used whenever possible, because a T Bucket will never wear parts out like a normal everyday, heavier car...
So, keep all the copper wires to the smallest size for long runs, I will run 1 heavy wire #10 to the front and 1 to the rear for all the power, and run real small wire for grounding all the relays to turn things on and off with real light duty switches also... You can also stop any sparking at switches by using one way diodes as well... Things I will be using on my new build design...
One thing. Dont forget to make sure the battery is well secured. Thats a lot of weight to get loose. Mine is inside the frame rail sunk as low as I can. the distance from the alternator to the +ve is leas than 1 foot, due to the fact that my alternator is running off the diff pinion flange. Saves a lot of wire and allows me to use 50amp power cable like they use in ICE installations. Its real pretty wire as well.
By the way in the second picture you can see that I have used a starp (IN WHITE) across the body that takes the body mounting bolts, instead of large washers. This will be glassed in later
Gerry
Francis Blake
Active Member
Ted I am looking forward to seeing your new design, sounds like some unique ideas.
Ted Brown
Member
Thanks, I will get it out there in my book I am attempting to write
also, as far as batteries go, I used to use them for balancing weight to help get the car to get hold of the ground, as I am not a racer anymore, I will not be driving with more HP than is needed to get the job done, comfortably... 
old round fart
Well-Known Member
SIGN ME UP FOR THE BOOK!!! Is it anywhere close?
As usual Gerry, well done and a good point about the weight that requires a very secure mounting.
I have several really nice, fabricated aluminum battery boxes used in aircraft and I'll probably use one, but not with just a couple of bolts hanging off the frame. It will be well supported all around and protected from something contacting the terminals in an upset.
I have several really nice, fabricated aluminum battery boxes used in aircraft and I'll probably use one, but not with just a couple of bolts hanging off the frame. It will be well supported all around and protected from something contacting the terminals in an upset.
My battery box is out of my 1950 Ford and is secured to the frame and the floor of the car.
Francis Blake
Active Member
Rick that is very similar to what I am doing but mine is a little further forward.
deckofficer
Banned
Here are all the advangages of the AGM battery
1.) 680 cranking amps in a 15 lb. package
2.) mount in any position
3.) no corrosion issues
4.) lowest self discharge, i.e. a year of non use and still 90%
5.) both a cranking and deep cycle design
6.) can be charged a 2C, normal lead acid restricted to .1C
7.) last battery you will buy for your hot rod
Disadvantages
1.) cost
1.) 680 cranking amps in a 15 lb. package
2.) mount in any position
3.) no corrosion issues
4.) lowest self discharge, i.e. a year of non use and still 90%
5.) both a cranking and deep cycle design
6.) can be charged a 2C, normal lead acid restricted to .1C
7.) last battery you will buy for your hot rod
Disadvantages
1.) cost
Attachments
Ted Brown
Member
I am in a stage where I am testing a lot of new ideas, and making a full size plan that people can design out their whole car, just the way they want it to look and work, and chassis before starting to buy any building materials, besides body and knowing what engine and trans combo you want...
So, It may be a while yet.. but I will keep you on a list to let know when things get close... Thanks for the interest
