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Best Bang for the Buck Brakes

LRS30

Member
Ok I've read up on all the inputs about different set-up's.. I am getting close for front brakes, I plan on running a Tube axle with early Ford Spindles that I got from LumenAL on here (still cannot thank him enough), and 16"x 4.50 Steel Plymouth Artillary Wheel's 5 on 4 1/2" b.p, with Firestone Champion Bias Ply of the same size .. I thought I had my mind made up on the speedway 11" disc kit, but then people are saying that they are to big for T's, is this true will I be wasting my money? I am on a budget like everyone else and cannot spend $700 on the Wilwood's That will totally blow my budget.. So is there another way? I will be willing to buy used if someone has a take off set of brakes that they upgraded to a better set.. This will not be my primary hotrod my 54 Bel-Air is that, and I will probably not see a lot of expressway/70 mph driving with this car if that matters.. But I do want it safe (to old to start being stupid again) So I'm open to ideas and opinions.. Thank's oh yhea and if you have a used set p.m. me..Ryan
 
LRS30 said:
Ok I've read up on all the inputs about different set-up's.. I am getting close for front brakes, I plan on running a Tube axle with early Ford Spindles that I got from LumenAL on here (still cannot thank him enough), and 16"x 4.50 Steel Plymouth Artillary Wheel's 5 on 4 1/2" b.p, with Firestone Champion Bias Ply of the same size .. I thought I had my mind made up on the speedway 11" disc kit, but then people are saying that they are to big for T's, is this true will I be wasting my money? I am on a budget like everyone else and cannot spend $700 on the Wilwood's That will totally blow my budget.. So is there another way? I will be willing to buy used if someone has a take off set of brakes that they upgraded to a better set.. This will not be my primary hotrod my 54 Bel-Air is that, and I will probably not see a lot of expressway/70 mph driving with this car if that matters.. But I do want it safe (to old to start being stupid again) So I'm open to ideas and opinions.. Thank's oh yhea and if you have a used set p.m. me..Ryan

NO, they are not too big. I'm running the GM brakes on my T. Stops on a dime.
 
Same setup here stops fine front disc and rear drums. Get proportioning valve adjusted and keep rear adjusted and you will be fine. Mine are not power either.
 
With the style of car your building, what about running drums in the front? Mine stops great with 4 wheel drums.
 
VegasBruce said:
With the style of car your building, what about running drums in the front? Mine stops great with 4 wheel drums.
I could I suppose but it seems everybody in my neck of the woods wants a fortune for a drum set up that will fit. I also would need adapters for the front wheels to fit because of the bolt pattern and having a set re-drilled and pressed puts me over the budget again.. Unless you have some ideas in this area, or a good set of cheap drums and backing plates and hardware I'm all ears. I'm all for traditional styling don't get me wrong thats the way I'm going but it is intended to be a fun cruiser not a period correct traditional rod, I've already blown that with the glass body and a later model S-10 rear-end and I'm on a pretty tight budget on this build..But Vegas Bruce your right I have drums on my 54 and they work great and if I could find a set in good shape not needing turned or missing hardware I would totally consider that route.Thank's for the idea..
 
It's pretty easy to find a set of '48 to '56 F-1 or F-100 brakes to go on your spindles. There was a set on e-bay a couple of weeks ago that sold for $106. Speedway now has the bearings and seals for $40.

Ron
 
Youngster said:
It's pretty easy to find a set of '48 to '56 F-1 or F-100 brakes to go on your spindles. There was a set on e-bay a couple of weeks ago that sold for $106. Speedway now has the bearings and seals for $40.

Ron
I bought a used set of '56 F-100 brakes locally, unfortunately needed new drums which I got for $80 each and cylinders for $26 each.

I think they will look great on my nostalgic roadster build.

Craig
 
Speedway sells a complete hub assembly for front drum brakes... hubs, backing plate and drums. But by the time you add it altogther it's cheaper to buy wilwoods. There are a few other people online selling front drums but I would go with RPM and use 11" GM discs. I have wilwood 10.75 vented rotors on my track-t but I'm using wider heavier front wheels and tires than most.
 
I have an S-10 Axel with drum brakes on the rear and GM disks on the front.
I was having trouble with the front disks overpowering the front tires and not enough force to the rear(wide) tires.
The world famous brake expert Fat Pat told me to switch the brake lines to the master cylinder. The large piston to the rear brakes and small to the front brakes. This divided the pressure perfectly and it now stops on a dime.
 
Choctaw Bob said:
I have an S-10 Axel with drum brakes on the rear and GM disks on the front.
I was having trouble with the front disks overpowering the front tires and not enough force to the rear(wide) tires.
The world famous brake expert Fat Pat told me to switch the brake lines to the master cylinder. The large piston to the rear brakes and small to the front brakes. This divided the pressure perfectly and it now stops on a dime.


Sir Patrick of immense girth is the man on brakes! For the record, he does not recommend switching the brake lines when using the Wilwood 175 series calipers like shown below...

DB206.jpg
 
TRoadster said:
Speedway sells a complete hub assembly for front drum brakes... hubs, backing plate and drums. But by the time you add it altogther it's cheaper to buy wilwoods. There are a few other people online selling front drums but I would go with RPM and use 11" GM discs. I have wilwood 10.75 vented rotors on my track-t but I'm using wider heavier front wheels and tires than most.

What does a complete disk kit for early Ford Spindles (which I already have ) from RPM cost??? Any Idea?
 
I think Speedway has always had the best price on brake kits.
 

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